need help. is this a good deal?

Ok I don't know much of anything about car audio so I need a little help. Friend has a couple of Kicker Solo Barac Squares. I believe they are the L7's...could be L5's. He said they're the newest so I assume L7, but I will check to be certain. Anyway he has a pair of those in a box specifically made for the previous owner's vehicle (no clue what make or model). He's selling both for $200total (box included). Is this a good deal ...assuming they're L7's? thanks

any pair of 12" or 15" subs from a reputable company for that price sounds like a good deal .... better check with the bass guys on here though.

I'm probably going to end up buying them. I have 2 cars so I might just throw one in each. I guess while I'm at it, I'm going to update my front and rear speakers...since they're factory and distort when turned up loud. I also have a friend with a couple of amps for sale (cheap). What should I know about them?...or what should I look out for?

good deal. For your speakers you might want to upgrade to a component set up front. They feature a separate midwoofer and tweeter to allow for better imaging. Id say get a new head unit (Alpine, eclipse, pioneer) And a good set of components (JL, CDT, RE, Morel, Focal, Image Dynamics, Dynaudio, none of that best buy crap) Then an amp that will have at least enouhg power to run the ones you pick. Leave the rear speakers alone, you dont need them.

Crutchfield.com tells you what size speakers fit your car, but you can find better deals on Woofersetc.com or other wholesale places. Just make sure you get good quality stuff now, so you dont have to waste money in the future.

good deal. For your speakers you might want to upgrade to a component set up front. They feature a separate midwoofer and tweeter to allow for better imaging. Id say get a new head unit (Alpine, eclipse, pioneer) And a good set of components (JL, CDT, RE, Morel, Focal, Image Dynamics, Dynaudio, none of that best buy crap) Then an amp that will have at least enouhg power to run the ones you pick. Leave the rear speakers alone, you dont need them.

Crutchfield.com tells you what size speakers fit your car, but you can find better deals on Woofersetc.com or other wholesale places. Just make sure you get good quality stuff now, so you dont have to waste money in the future.
thanks for the great replies!! I already have JVC headunits in both my vehicles. They're fairly new IMO...1-2 years old. I have owned, and will never own another Pioneer. I had nothing but problems with that headunit and it wasn't one of their cheaper models. I went with JVC this time and loved the unit so much that I bought the exact unit off ebay for my second vehicle. So if I get these Kicker Squares, I plan on splitting them...putting one in each of my cars. I think I know what you're talking about when you say "component set"....I have seen some speakers that have the features you mentioned, rather than a simple speaker. I think both cars have 4X6s in the front, but I will check to make sure. Are you saying that I don't even need to use the rear speakers??? One last question for the time being...do you know of a decent 'component set' of front speakers that are reasonably priced? I don't know anything about good or bad speakers. thanks again for your help!!!

The FAQ has a list of good brands. as long as you go with a quality name, your should get good results. Im partial to CDT. But there are tons of good names. Plan on spending no less than $250 on a set. That might sound high but if you think about it, a good set will last you years. Its an investment. Pair them with a nice amp and quality wiring and your all set. The reason rear speakers arent really necesary is because when you have a good, well imaged front set up, you cant even hear the back, but more importantly, stereo sound is meant to be heard from the right and left front of the listener, not the back. Having too much rear fill ruins the intended sound that the artist wants you to hear. Its ok to have a little, but focus on the front. You can have a great sounding stereo with just front comps and a sub.

ok L7s new for 12s are around 350 a piece around here... (iowa) they are a great subwoofer.... unless they are under powered....

IMO... underpowered is worse than overpowering a sub...

anyway... id definately jump on that deal... but first... carefully inspect the subs look for cracks obviously... but check the voice coils. if they smell burned or look discolored... i wouldnt mess with it...

and as far as component... i have run fosgate. aluminum... with 1" aluminum tweeters... but i was running 4600watts.. and 7 amps.. 2 caps.. and 4 deep cycle batteries...

i had 8 tweeters in that car.. but i couldnt blow one of those tweeters even if i tried.. granted they were near 90 dollars a pair...
they were definately worth it...

also ,. diamond audio isnt bad... ive had diamond audio aluminum mid-bass 5 1/4s and also 1" tweeters..

and what the guy said about the rear speakers...
is totally wrong if u want to run a component system....

what i would recomend for a set up is....

without knowing the specs on your deck... not knowing if it has more than one pre amp out... or sub control feature....

saying it does... have seperate pre outs... for front rear and sub...

id put a Y RCA splitter.on the front pre amp out. .. and run a 4 channel amp to the front. mids in the doors and highs.mounted probably on the A arms . id recomend the alpine v12 ... runs about 450-600 clean crisp high frequency... watts.... run the front channels to the tweaters... id say the fosgate tweeters work well enough for any high output systems
and u could try any aluminum mid but id consider not buying the cheapest mid u can find because like the other guy said.,.. its an investment...

as far as the rear speakers...
id throw in a set of memphis audio 4ways... they look kinda mean and they preform...

they equalize the sound throughout the car.... DONT EVER RUN JUST FRONTS... ull loose interest in car audio all together.. i mean get in your car right now... and have ur system like it is... and then turn the fader all to front ... and notice the differance...
THEY PUT THEM IN FOR A REASON>>> USE THEM LOL

and if u put a sub in each car..
means u need 2 more boxes... which can be pricy... but its up to u what u buy or build

an L7 12 needs about 3.5 cu ft. minimum so go from there if u are looking for single boxes.. and with that sub id run a completely sealed box expecially in a car with a trunk... even a hatchback...

and u need an amp that will run at least 600-700 clean watts...
id recomend the memphis 750. not quite sure of the model number.. but buy one for each car.. they run about 450 each new... but ull never miss the money... but ull miss the amp if u get rid of it.. i do... i loved that amp.. it would push anything i had.. and CLEAN AS HELL!!!!!

anyway let me know what ur budget is and ill conform a system up and email it back to u.. my email is [email protected]
good luck man

wow thanks!! I'lll have to look at my headunit to see about the output and subcontrols. I'm pretty sure I've seen an option for controlling the sub. I did buy one of the L7's....just one. He wouldn't part with both (changed his mind). Let me tell ya, it sounded really good in the huge box it was in. I was told by a few people that the L7 square only needs 1 cu. ft. of airspace. I'm hoping that's the case, but I'll have to do a bit more research. I'll try to post back this evening and let you know what I've found about my headunit....it's a JVC KD-LH 910 if you're bored and want to look it up. thanks for the information!!!!

wow ... now here's a guy that has been truly, probably by some slick salesmen

ok L7s new for 12s are around 350 a piece around here... (iowa) they are a great subwoofer.... unless they are under powered....

IMO... underpowered is worse than overpowering a sub...

THIS IS USUALLY TRUE

anyway... id definately jump on that deal... but first... carefully inspect the subs look for cracks obviously... but check the voice coils. if they smell burned or look discolored... i wouldnt mess with it...

and as far as component... i have run fosgate. aluminum... with 1" aluminum tweeters... but i was running 4600watts.. and 7 amps.. 2 caps.. and 4 deep cycle batteries...

WOW, I BET THAT ALTERNATOR WAS GASPING FOR THE AIR THE WHOLE TIME.

i had 8 tweeters in that car.. but i couldnt blow one of those tweeters even if i tried.. granted they were near 90 dollars a pair...
they were definately worth it...

DANG, I DON'T THINK I HAVE EVER PAID THAT LITTLE FOR A SINGLE TWEETER - MUCH LESS A PAIR

also ,. diamond audio isnt bad... ive had diamond audio aluminum mid-bass 5 1/4s and also 1" tweeters..

DIAMOND MIDS ARE GOOD, THEIR TWEETS ARE NOT SO GOOD

and what the guy said about the rear speakers...
is totally wrong if u want to run a component system....

what i would recomend for a set up is....

without knowing the specs on your deck... not knowing if it has more than one pre amp out... or sub control feature....

saying it does... have seperate pre outs... for front rear and sub...

id put a Y RCA splitter.on the front pre amp out. .. and run a 4 channel amp to the front. mids in the doors and highs.mounted probably on the A arms . id recomend the alpine v12 ... runs about 450-600 clean crisp high frequency... watts.... run the front channels to the tweaters... id say the fosgate tweeters work well enough for any high output systems
and u could try any aluminum mid but id consider not buying the cheapest mid u can find because like the other guy said.,.. its an investment...

TWEETS ON THE A-ARMS ? I WOULD THINK THEY ARE GONNA SOUND FUNNY PLAYING INTO THE TIRES. AM SURE YOU MEANT A-PILLAR, HOPE YOU HAVE T/A (AND KNOW HOW TO ADJUST IT) IF YOU USE THAT ARRANGEMENT. OH, AND WHAT'S THE FASCINATION WITH ALUMINUM SPEAKERS ?

as far as the rear speakers...
id throw in a set of memphis audio 4ways... they look kinda mean and they preform...

MEMPHIS IS AVERAGE SOUND QUALITY

they equalize the sound throughout the car.... DONT EVER RUN JUST FRONTS... ull loose interest in car audio all together.. i mean get in your car right now... and have ur system like it is... and then turn the fader all to front ... and notice the differance...
THEY PUT THEM IN FOR A REASON>>> USE THEM LOL

REALLY ? I GUESS ALL THOSE SOUND QUALITY IDIOTS DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT IT - MAYBE YOU SHOULD ENLGHTEN THEM. TOO BAD MANY OF THEM ARE RECORING ENGINEERS AND WON'T LISTEN TO YOU. YOU MUST BE ONE OF THOSE GUYS THAT GETS TO SIT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE PERFORMERS ON STAGE - BECAUSE THAT'S THE SOUND YOU GET FROM HAVING THE REAR SPEAKERS AS LOUD AS THE FRONTS. AND BEFORE YOU EVEN START IN WTH THE 5.1 HOME STUFF - IF YOU TRULY UNDERSTOOD HOW IT WORKS YOU WOULDN'T BE ADVISING THIS KIND OF CRAPPOLA. THE 6X9'S WERE PUT IN THE BACK TO INCREASE BASS, NOT ADD TO THE SOUND STAGE.

and if u put a sub in each car..
means u need 2 more boxes... which can be pricy... but its up to u what u buy or build

an L7 12 needs about 3.5 cu ft. minimum so go from there if u are looking for single boxes.. and with that sub id run a completely sealed box expecially in a car with a trunk... even a hatchback...

i THOUGHT THE SQUARE L SERIES WERE THE REPLACEMENT FOR THE SOLOBARICS, MEANT TO PLAY IN A SMALL BOX. i AM NOT INTO KICKER STUFF, SO ONE OF THE BASS GUYS WILL HAVE TO CHIME IN HERE.

and u need an amp that will run at least 600-700 clean watts...
id recomend the memphis 750. not quite sure of the model number.. but buy one for each car.. they run about 450 each new... but ull never miss the money... but ull miss the amp if u get rid of it.. i do... i loved that amp.. it would push anything i had.. and CLEAN AS HELL!!!!!

anyway let me know what ur budget is and ill conform a system up and email it back to u.. my email is [email protected]
good luck man

Yeah. Most pro competition systems either dont use rear fill, or its very minimal. I have no idea why you would want 10 tweeters or whatever you said. Totally unnecessary.

I have tried those setups before - the multiple mid/tweets - all it seemed to do was smear the image, or worse, there was no image at all. The problems are generally that EACH speaker must be EQ'd seperately and eack speaker will also need it's own time alignment. Even with all this, there will still be phase issues to be dealt with. 5.1 systems would not be quite so bad (when playing 5.1 software) because the rear channels are mostly ambience.

I was going to say who in the hell doesnt realize that any SQ setup has a majority or all of its components mounted in the front of the vehicle, not all around. ANd like paul stated your imaging will suffer with what you describe as amazing. Let alone the fact that you talking about have 4700 watts, 2 caps and deep cycle batteries ,make me wonder who taught you anything about car audio. Caps are more for flash that anything, and that many batteries is useless unless you are running a PURE SPL setup. The L7 is NOT a replacement, it a series of solobraics, the L5 is kind of a starter while the L7 is more a mid level. And 350 a piece someone is get bent over a talbe hard, on ebay you can get 2 for about 250-300.

AS for the original posters question, yes it is a good deal. Like paul stated 200 for any brand name set of subs and an enclosure is a great deal. BUt i will warn you that the solobaric subs are prone to a lot of distortion and tend to only be good for SPL, the square design is horrible for SQ.

If your just looking for some bump then go for it.