Made a mistake!
auto
11-27-2002, 02:25 PM
I hate it ! I was sprayin Ts-13 (clearcoat) for my first time. It was good, but I didn't know that if you touched it the paint would come off. :newburn: The first time i touched the hood, I touched it because there was a peice of lint, nothing happened except there was a smear, no problem I just sprayed it again and it looked fine. But then after a few seconds I touched the back by accident, which was very stupid, the paint got smeared down a little to the primer ! :eek: :mad: Now I don't know what to do? should I go over it with my spray paint again, or save time and just cover it with a decal? :confused: Could someone help me with the descicion? :bloated:
thx ahead of time.:D
thx ahead of time.:D
JE123
11-27-2002, 02:30 PM
If you wanted to strip the entire paint job and start over use Castrol Super Clean and be sure to wear gloves.
But it's up to you if you want to strip the paint or put a decal over the bad area.
But it's up to you if you want to strip the paint or put a decal over the bad area.
primera man
11-27-2002, 03:38 PM
Now you know why im not a fan of clearcoats....to many horror stories like this.:eek: :eek: ...i'm still yet to see anybody really post a correct way to do this that everyone can agree on:confused: :confused:
IMO you are going to have to start all over again after stripping the paint off
IMO you are going to have to start all over again after stripping the paint off
ultraxduce
11-27-2002, 03:46 PM
yeah. i say strip the paint and redo
but next time.. wait till the paint dries.. then sand the lint out,.,. before the next layer of clear..
i paint with spray bottles.. to try and avoid getting lint in final coat.. is spray in thin and lite coats.. if any lint is caught.. can be removed when dry. so after about 4 or 5 coats.. it looks pretty good to be sanded and polished later
but next time.. wait till the paint dries.. then sand the lint out,.,. before the next layer of clear..
i paint with spray bottles.. to try and avoid getting lint in final coat.. is spray in thin and lite coats.. if any lint is caught.. can be removed when dry. so after about 4 or 5 coats.. it looks pretty good to be sanded and polished later
hiver77
11-27-2002, 03:51 PM
I always use ModelMaster's Gloss Clearcoat (along with Flat, and Semi-Gloss) on top of my Tamiya spray and never had problems with them.
I heard something about the combination of Tamiya Spray with the Tamiya Clear (TS-13) that requires putting the clear-coat 30 mins after the color coat or wait until 3 months (???).
I heard something about the combination of Tamiya Spray with the Tamiya Clear (TS-13) that requires putting the clear-coat 30 mins after the color coat or wait until 3 months (???).
sugarcaddy
11-27-2002, 03:58 PM
Boy do I hate it when that happens! :mad:
I have had problems with the top coat on most of my models. Just this past week I sprayed a gloss coat over some Testors paint that I let dry for over 24 hours and the darn gloss cracked the paint all over it! :eek:
Needless to say it went in the CSC for a 4 day bath! YIKES!! :shocked:
Your going to need to strip it or forget it. Its not possible to cover or repair that type of damage without making it look bad.
Scott
I have had problems with the top coat on most of my models. Just this past week I sprayed a gloss coat over some Testors paint that I let dry for over 24 hours and the darn gloss cracked the paint all over it! :eek:
Needless to say it went in the CSC for a 4 day bath! YIKES!! :shocked:
Your going to need to strip it or forget it. Its not possible to cover or repair that type of damage without making it look bad.
Scott
ZoomZoomMX-5
11-27-2002, 04:20 PM
The question about when to apply Tamiya clearcoat comes up over and over again on another forum.
First of all, it's totally unnecessary to apply clear on solid non-metallic or non-pearl Tamiya colors. It is necessary on the pearls and metallics for proper sheen.
Tamiya themselves admitted the problem w/their clear reacting w/their colors if applied at the wrong time. The clear will crack if applied between one hour and one month of drying. To keep the clear from cracking, apply it immediately-you can let the color set for about 15 minutes, then start to slowly dust on the clearcoat, getting heavier coats as you apply the clear. Or you wait a month for the color coat to dry completely before applying the clear. I've got little patience, so once my color is applied (or resprayed after polishing any dirt/dust), I immediately apply Tamiya clear. Perfect results each and every time. I hate Testors clear, it dries very soft and gets sticky w/handling, Tamiya paints are not as bad, but automotive lacquers dry even harder than Tamiya paints.
I've heard that Castrol Super Clean and Easy Off don't work well to strip Tamiya paint, that because it's a lacquer you need something along the lines of Scale Coat Easy Lift off, or even automotive brake fluid. I prefer to block sand/fix a bad spot in the paint vs. stripping it unless it's truly a disaster. It has been years since I had to strip a paint job, and I see people all the time stripping paint that is totally unnecessary-the flaws are easy to fix if you know how to carefully sand the damaged areas smooth. Tamiya paints dry in thin layers, the model will probably be okay if you carefully sand the flaw, and lightly re-apply the layers of paint, from primer through color through clear. I would attempt to sand/repair the flaw and re-prime the affected area to see if it's smooth before resorting to chemical warfare to strip the paint.
First of all, it's totally unnecessary to apply clear on solid non-metallic or non-pearl Tamiya colors. It is necessary on the pearls and metallics for proper sheen.
Tamiya themselves admitted the problem w/their clear reacting w/their colors if applied at the wrong time. The clear will crack if applied between one hour and one month of drying. To keep the clear from cracking, apply it immediately-you can let the color set for about 15 minutes, then start to slowly dust on the clearcoat, getting heavier coats as you apply the clear. Or you wait a month for the color coat to dry completely before applying the clear. I've got little patience, so once my color is applied (or resprayed after polishing any dirt/dust), I immediately apply Tamiya clear. Perfect results each and every time. I hate Testors clear, it dries very soft and gets sticky w/handling, Tamiya paints are not as bad, but automotive lacquers dry even harder than Tamiya paints.
I've heard that Castrol Super Clean and Easy Off don't work well to strip Tamiya paint, that because it's a lacquer you need something along the lines of Scale Coat Easy Lift off, or even automotive brake fluid. I prefer to block sand/fix a bad spot in the paint vs. stripping it unless it's truly a disaster. It has been years since I had to strip a paint job, and I see people all the time stripping paint that is totally unnecessary-the flaws are easy to fix if you know how to carefully sand the damaged areas smooth. Tamiya paints dry in thin layers, the model will probably be okay if you carefully sand the flaw, and lightly re-apply the layers of paint, from primer through color through clear. I would attempt to sand/repair the flaw and re-prime the affected area to see if it's smooth before resorting to chemical warfare to strip the paint.
auto
11-27-2002, 06:43 PM
Damn I applied clear coat today which is about Five days after I spray painted my model. :newburn: Before i start cursing my head off I'll say thanks for the clearcoat information. :bloated:
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