Tamiya TS over automotive paint

Hi folks,

I've been bitten by the modelling bug again after being away from the hobby for almost 2 years!! So, I've dusted off some of my un-finished models, and am ready to go.

However, I have a question - I've got a car body painted using automotive paint but the coverage is not very good. As I no longer have my compressor, airbushing more auto paint is not possible, so I was wondering if there was any danger of using Tamiya lacquers over the auto paint (mind you it's had 2 years to cure!).

I've attempted at searching the forum, but haven't found an answer (maybe I've missed a thread), so appreaciate your comments.

TIA

My personal opinion is that the Tamiya TS range should be safe over most auto based paints and I doubt you would have an adverse reaction.However if you are unsure you could test it on an unseen area first or better still if you are repainting the body anyway you may as well strip off the old paint and start afresh.Isopropyl alcohol (available at most diy,electronics or chemist stores) will soon strip off the old paint.Leave the body in the alcohol,in a sealed container overnight and the following day the old paint should scrub off with a toothbrush.

Take care with metalized automotive bases: TS13 is almost safe but it'll let the metal flakes to move under, with a strange "moirè" effect. I have got this reaction with my China Scangi at the first attempt: since I found no probs on red I skipped the usuals light coat to do a couple of wetcoats>>>>

Just decant (toothpick's tip for gas out) , thin a bit and do thin layers and it would be safe almost wherever.

If the color on the body now is insufficient, then don't risk spraying TS over the existing paint. Get yourself some alcohol and strip it. You'd probably be OK painting over it, but stripping and starting new is a much better option.

If all you need is clearcoat, then you cna likely apply TS-13 over it. However, as in all cases TS-13 must be applied carefully. Build it up slowly, spraying only mist coats, and allow plenty of time between coats (an hour or two at least). TS-13 (like all laquer clears) contains very powerful solvents, and they must not be allowed to collect in any real concentration when being applied- otherwise it can attack nearly anything under it.

Thanks guys

Depends on the type of automotive paint. I use TS13 over Dupont urethane touch-up paint (labeled "ChromaBase") and it works just fine whether it's sprayed dry or wet, light or heavy. That's my "standard" for any job that requires a special color. (The automotive paint store can mix just about anything. I don't use metallics, however.)

If you want a clear coat that's absolutely, positively, perfectly safe when painted over virtually anything, use a waterborne acrylic clear like Tamiya X-22. It polishes up very nicely, too!

If you like a "dipped in syrup" super-shine that requires no polishing, use a two-part urethane clear (1 part hardener, 4 parts clear urethane) available from your automotive paint store. I personally have not sprayed that over enamel, but I'm pretty sure it would be okay if the enamel is cured. But you need to wear a pro respirator if you're going to spray that stuff!

If it were me, I'd use the TS13 over anything that could be termed "automotive paint." IMO the Tamiya TS13 is not nearly as hot as the old cellulose lacquers, and I feel quite certain that it would be okay over any well-cured automotive paint.

I don't know of any automotive paint that can be be removed with alcohol. Castrol Super Clean or DOT brake fluid will work with most paints, but you've got a problem if you're trying to strip urethane. It's very, very difficult to remove. I have a urethaned car that's been sitting two weeks in brake fluid, and only some areas have started to soften. Before that, I tried CSC for a few days and it had no effect whatsoever.

Diddy