Rolling the Montana Engine Forward

Is this difficult to do for a Shade Tree Mechanic? Any special considerations? Like don't do this or make sureyou do this first!!
I would like to change the plugs and wires on my 2000 MOntana.

I've changed the plugs and wires in my 2000 Montana before. Its a rough job, but doable. I think the only tool I had to go out and buy was a set of ratchet straps to pull the engine forward with. The hardest part of the job, for me, was getting the plug wires off the back three plugs. All three were stuck on tight and I wound up having to split the boots with a pocket knife while draped over the motor and cussing at GM. :banghead:

There are quite a few things to take apart before you can actually get to the point of rolling the engine forward and getting at the back three plugs. If you can, you may want to note how everything came apart so it can go back together the same way.

EDIT: I'd recommend using AC Delco plugs. I've read that other brands don't last too long in GMs and this is a job you're probably not going to want to do more than once.

It also helps to use a little anti-seize on the threads of the plugs and a little di-electric grease on the spark plug boots so they will be easier to remove again, if the need arises.

It also helps to use a little anti-seize on the threads of the plugs and a little di-electric grease on the spark plug boots so they will be easier to remove again, if the need arises.

Yep, you're right on that one. I did that even though I changed the plugs and wires at 110k miles. I shouldn't have to do it again, but just in case...

The Haynes Manual has step-by-step instructions for rolling the engine forward. If I could do it, anybody can do it.

Thanks for all the help I will be attempting this weekend.

It is horrible and you might want to buy the special tool to move the engine forward called a GM engine moving forward tool.Any Cornwell,Mac,Matco or Snap On dealer sells this tool.Some parts stores sell it too.

It is horrible and you might want to buy the special tool to move the engine forward called a GM engine moving forward tool.Any Cornwell,Mac,Matco or Snap On dealer sells this tool.Some parts stores sell it too.

Huh?

Huh?
Make that two. I had good luck using ratchet straps. I parked behind another vehicle and hooked the straps to the frame of that one and to the loops on the engine and ratcheted the straps tight. Worked fine for me.

This has got to be sarcasm. It has been over a year ago, but I think I just removed the front mounts and the two throttle cables, put a ratcheting strap on the lift hook and the front rail and ratcheted it forward. Easy as pie.

This has got to be sarcasm...

Nope, it's for real. Did a quick search and found Lisle makes one as well as Thexton. Costs around $40.

Anything need unbolted underneath from the exhaust system ? I need to roll the engine on my 2000 montana to change the air solenoid and don't really want to have to purchase the Haynes Manual to learn how to move the engine. Anyone done this that can provide a brief list of items that need disconnected besdies the throttle cable and mounts?

Apprecaite everyones time on this thread....

From "Haynes Repair Manual" #38036 for 1997-2001 Venture, Silhouette, Trans Sport and Montana (which you oughtta buy because it also gives really clear pictures of everything and saves you a ton of time and you can keep it for the next thing that goes wrong) :-)

1. Block the rear wheels, place the transaxle in neutral and disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Caution: on models equipped with the Theft-lock audio system, be sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.

2. Remove the air cleaner duct and air cleaner. Also remove the accelerator cable and the cruise control cable from the throttle body.

3. Remove the two bolts and detach the driver's side torque strut from the vehicle. Remove ONE bolt from the radiator side of the passenger side torque strut and pivot the passenger side torque strut towards the engine.

4. Attach a ratcheting strap to the front of the radiator support and to the engine lifting eye on the driver's side strut bracket, the ratchet the strap to tilt the engine toward the radiator side.

Thanks hufhouse. Were seeling the car the first of the year so I didn't want to invest in a book at the end of the race.....thanks for the information.....It's been a good ride for over 7 years but it's time for a new vehicle..

1. Block the rear wheels, place the transaxle in neutral and disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Caution: on models equipped with the Theft-lock audio system, be sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.



So what you are telling me is that if I put a new battery in my van the radio is gonna need a code to make it work again?

Where do I get this code from for a 2003 montana?

i use a battery charger on the hot post under the hood and a good ground. the 12dc charger at 2 amps would not have enough juice to allow the van to start. but it keeps the codes in the radio and the computer. disclaimer: use at your own risk.

So what you are telling me is that if I put a new battery in my van the radio is gonna need a code to make it work again?

Where do I get this code from for a 2003 montana?

CLICK HERE FOR INFORMATION FROM ANOTHER POST ABOUT THE THEFT-LOCK FEATURE. (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=607578&highlight=theft-lock+radio)

what are y'all rolling the engine forward for .you pull it up on some ramps and get under it go up beside the exhaust and change the plug wires , plugs ,and o2 sensor and cranksensor

i use a battery charger on the hot post under the hood and a good ground. the 12dc charger at 2 amps would not have enough juice to allow the van to start. but it keeps the codes in the radio and the computer. disclaimer: use at your own risk.
I haven't done this in a few years , so I don't know if it will work on these vans. A long time ago a salesman gave us a trick in the garage to keep the radio station pre-sets from deleting when disconnecting the battery. He simply took a plug that goes in the cigarette lighter,( the kind you find on many accessories that plug into that port, the part can usually be purchased separately from an auto parts store.)He took the two wires that come off that plug and attached a 9 volt battery end,( the kind that attaches onto a 9 volt battery that has the 2 nodes .) You then attach a 9 volt battery to the end of the plug and put the plug in your cigarette lighter ,( or accessory plug,) and can now disconnect the battery without losing your pre-sets.

what are y'all rolling the engine forward for .you pull it up on some ramps and get under it go up beside the exhaust and change the plug wires and plugs ,and o2 sensor .

That's how I did it. It's slow, but you don't have to worry about crushing your cooling fans or damaging your radiator.

you can only roll it forward so much and then you have to end up dropping the front of the subframe and you can only drop it three inches and contened with it trying to grab part of the fascia as it drops. but the way up by the exhaust is the fast way if you take into account the time it takes to roll the motor forward and drop the subframe just to get at the backside of the motor.