Shifter Interlock Solenoid Replacement
gene52
10-01-2007, 01:57 PM
Hello,
I have read all the posts I can find about the T-Bird shifter sticking in Park. My 1997 T-Bird is doing this intermittently, and releases from Park only with great difficulty, and in colder weather, not at all. Because it does actuate at least intermittently, I doubt it's the brake switch or electrical connections and am ready to replace the interlock solenoid. Can anyone advise on what is involved; that is, how to access the solenoid and what disassembly is required? And is the replacement part even available?
Thanks.
I have read all the posts I can find about the T-Bird shifter sticking in Park. My 1997 T-Bird is doing this intermittently, and releases from Park only with great difficulty, and in colder weather, not at all. Because it does actuate at least intermittently, I doubt it's the brake switch or electrical connections and am ready to replace the interlock solenoid. Can anyone advise on what is involved; that is, how to access the solenoid and what disassembly is required? And is the replacement part even available?
Thanks.
gene52
10-04-2007, 07:14 PM
Well, I have started trying to reach the shifter solenoid. Don't have any assembly drawings, so it's going by visual inspection. Removed the shifter knob, the shifter cover panel, and the shift indicator bezel without much difficulty.
The latch locking the shift mechanism in park is visible, and still doesn't work. All this seems to be part of a shifter sub-assembly that attaches below with 4 each 5/16 head metal screws. It appears that removing the aft two screws and loosening the front two might allow this subassembly to lift up enough at the rear to provide access to the solenoid below. These screws, especially the front two, will be very difficult to access, but that is what I will try next. If anyone can tell me that this is going the wrong direction and a waste of time, please let me know...otherwise, I'll give it a try.
The latch locking the shift mechanism in park is visible, and still doesn't work. All this seems to be part of a shifter sub-assembly that attaches below with 4 each 5/16 head metal screws. It appears that removing the aft two screws and loosening the front two might allow this subassembly to lift up enough at the rear to provide access to the solenoid below. These screws, especially the front two, will be very difficult to access, but that is what I will try next. If anyone can tell me that this is going the wrong direction and a waste of time, please let me know...otherwise, I'll give it a try.
97Bird
10-05-2007, 10:58 PM
Welcome to the forum and sorry I didn't get to answer sooner. The actuator is on the right hand side of the steering column (when sitting in the seat) under the dash.
1. The first thing to do is check the 5A RUN fuse in the panel under the dash. If it is ok then go to 3 and if not go to 2.
2. Turn off ignition, remove the RUN fuse, remove the black 3 wire connector from the actuator. The 3 wires should be colored P/O, LG and BLK. Measure resistance between the P/O wire and ground. Is the resistance greater then 10,000 ohms? If yes, go to 3 and if not the wire must be shorted to ground somewhere. Repair it, replace fuse with a good one and test again.
3. Reinstall fuse, remove the connector at the actuator and with the ignition ON see if you have 12V between the P/O wire and ground. If you do, then go to 4 and if not, repair open condition in the P/O between the fuse and the actuator connector.
4. Press the brake pedal and see if the brake lights work. If they do, go to 5 and if they don't then you need to service the brake light circuit.
5. Press the brake pedal and see if you have 12V between the LG wire at the actuator connector and ground. If you do then go to 6 and if you don't then repair an open circuit between the brake light switch and the actuator connector (LG wire).
6. At the actuator connector measure the resistance between the BLK wire and ground. If the resistance is less then 5 ohms then replace the actuator and if it isn't, find out why that wire isn't making a good contact to ground.
After all this typing I hope it helps!
1. The first thing to do is check the 5A RUN fuse in the panel under the dash. If it is ok then go to 3 and if not go to 2.
2. Turn off ignition, remove the RUN fuse, remove the black 3 wire connector from the actuator. The 3 wires should be colored P/O, LG and BLK. Measure resistance between the P/O wire and ground. Is the resistance greater then 10,000 ohms? If yes, go to 3 and if not the wire must be shorted to ground somewhere. Repair it, replace fuse with a good one and test again.
3. Reinstall fuse, remove the connector at the actuator and with the ignition ON see if you have 12V between the P/O wire and ground. If you do, then go to 4 and if not, repair open condition in the P/O between the fuse and the actuator connector.
4. Press the brake pedal and see if the brake lights work. If they do, go to 5 and if they don't then you need to service the brake light circuit.
5. Press the brake pedal and see if you have 12V between the LG wire at the actuator connector and ground. If you do then go to 6 and if you don't then repair an open circuit between the brake light switch and the actuator connector (LG wire).
6. At the actuator connector measure the resistance between the BLK wire and ground. If the resistance is less then 5 ohms then replace the actuator and if it isn't, find out why that wire isn't making a good contact to ground.
After all this typing I hope it helps!
gene52
10-10-2007, 04:17 PM
Thanks, 97Bird! The shift interlock solenoid, as you say, is in the shift column, as I discovered when I took out the shifter mechanism...there is no solenoid in the shifter mechanism, indeed, no electrical wiring entering the mechanism that could actuate a solenoid. The shifter interlock function is entirely mechanical between the steering column and the shifter mechanism, by means of the ignition interlock cable.
Seeing that, as a temporary work-around, I simply lifted the cable out of its retaining slot on the plastic lever that locks the shifter in park. No way now that the shifter can become locked in park. Maybe I'll get around to replacing the solenoid, maybe not. I had already performed, in one way or another, all the tests on fuses, brake switch, brake lights, and was pretty certain the problem was the solenoid. I guess it could still be a wire or connector somewhere but since the solenoid did actuate at times, with difficulty, I tended to rule out a broken wire or connector.
Thanks again, and I'm back running now. Hope this saga helps someone else.
Seeing that, as a temporary work-around, I simply lifted the cable out of its retaining slot on the plastic lever that locks the shifter in park. No way now that the shifter can become locked in park. Maybe I'll get around to replacing the solenoid, maybe not. I had already performed, in one way or another, all the tests on fuses, brake switch, brake lights, and was pretty certain the problem was the solenoid. I guess it could still be a wire or connector somewhere but since the solenoid did actuate at times, with difficulty, I tended to rule out a broken wire or connector.
Thanks again, and I'm back running now. Hope this saga helps someone else.
gene52
10-10-2007, 04:18 PM
Thanks, 97Bird! The shift interlock solenoid, as you say, is in the shift column, as I discovered when I took out the shifter mechanism...there is no solenoid in the shifter mechanism, indeed, no electrical wiring entering the mechanism that could actuate a solenoid. The shifter interlock function is entirely mechanical between the steering column and the shifter mechanism, by means of the ignition interlock cable.
Seeing that, as a temporary work-around, I simply lifted the cable out of its retaining slot on the plastic lever that locks the shifter in park. No way now that the shifter can become locked in park. Maybe I'll get around to replacing the solenoid, maybe not. I had already performed, in one way or another, all the tests on fuses, brake switch, brake lights, and was pretty certain the problem was the solenoid. I guess it could still be a wire or connector somewhere but since the solenoid did actuate at times, with difficulty, I tended to rule out a broken wire or connector.
Thanks again, and I'm back running now. Hope this saga helps someone else.
Seeing that, as a temporary work-around, I simply lifted the cable out of its retaining slot on the plastic lever that locks the shifter in park. No way now that the shifter can become locked in park. Maybe I'll get around to replacing the solenoid, maybe not. I had already performed, in one way or another, all the tests on fuses, brake switch, brake lights, and was pretty certain the problem was the solenoid. I guess it could still be a wire or connector somewhere but since the solenoid did actuate at times, with difficulty, I tended to rule out a broken wire or connector.
Thanks again, and I'm back running now. Hope this saga helps someone else.
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