WIP Aston Martin DBR9 by MFH

Looks great Steven. :thumbsup:

Hi Klutz, very great job you done. I follow your post with interest too cause i've the same to do. @+. gerard.

Actually...what tinting do you mean?
Here's a picture of the sister car of your build. There's no "tinting" ( unless i misunderstand the meaning of that word...for me that would be some kind of colour!? )
For the black sunshade and the ceramic frame ( lower part of windsceen ) i would mask and airbrush them from the back. No Future or clear coat needed i'd say.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/jaykay640/Diverse/DBR9LM2005windscreendetail.jpg

On the other hand you could put a black sticker from the inside and try to replicate those air bubbles :-)

The next update for my build should be ready on the weekend :-)

I can't wait to see this monster completed! This is one kick butt build! :)

I have never tried MFH multimedia kits, but didn't know you can push all the way to bring out great details.

Keep up the good work~

LOL @ JayKay – damn, I’m afraid I could get that bubble effect even without trying :crying:

I’m not so sure I agree with you on the matte black though.

MFH call out for Smoke and my references show that this band IS semi-transparent (although it does frequently look opaque in many photos - I suppose it's a question of teh angle it is taken). You can just about see the semi-transparency in this shot.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/sun-visor_01.jpg


I have a favor/question to ask of anybody/everybody.

Can anyone who also has the MFH DBR9 please look at their decal sheet and see if their black window decals also have the “patchy” effect that I have on mine. If everyone has the same effect, I guess there is not much point in me contacting MFH for replacements.

This is what mine look like. The effect is on all the surround decals as well as the Aston Martin decal for the rear window.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/MFH--decal_02.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/MFH--decal_01.jpg

Thanks in advance for any help.

that second shot doesnt look healthy at all
Sorry i dont have the kit tho :(

that almost looks like the decal was stuck to a piece of paper on the second pic

O.k....you win :-) In that case i would spray smoke or a mix of gloss clear with a bit of gloss black in thin coats from the back untl you get the desired opacity.

MFH call out for Smoke and my references show that this band IS semi-transparent (although it does frequently look opaque in many photos - I suppose it's a question of teh angle it is taken). You can just about see the semi-transparency in this shot.


It way easier to see from the inside :iceslolan
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/6462376263346361.jpg



I have a favor/question to ask of anybody/everybody.

Can anyone who also has the MFH DBR9 please look at their decal sheet and see if their black window decals also have the “patchy” effect that I have on mine. If everyone has the same effect, I guess there is not much point in me contacting MFH for replacements.


mine look exactly the same... I have that effect on all decals of both sheets. I also have some of the effects on other MFH F1 kit decals but the guys over at F1m.com told me not worry, it will be fine after applying... so we'll see :rolleyes:

By the way do you plan to apply the black trim around the windows and headlights from the outside or inside? I thought the inside might give a better look but then you will actually have to add glue to the decal to attach them to the body... Maybe you could try that so I can avoid messing it up :rofl: :rofl:

By the way do you plan to apply the black trim around the windows and headlights from the outside or inside? I thought the inside might give a better look but then you will actually have to add glue to the decal to attach them to the body...
Exactly my dilemma :)

... Maybe you could try that so I can avoid messing it up :rofl: :rofl:
You wish!! :lol: You build faster than me, YOU go first! :evillol: ;)

Core decals and clear coat are down.

Needs to cure for a few days and then I can start polishing, waxing, adding the p/e and other body detailing.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/decals_01-1.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/decals_02-1.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/decals_03-1.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/decals_04jpg.jpg

Hello Steven,
Nice paint job you did on the Aston.
Cheers,

Jamme

Clear/Decals look great Steven.:)

Just noticed - excellent paint job! Great you are Steven...

That is awesome!!! What kind of clear did you use?

Looks like you're building faster than me:smooch:

Sweet!

:thumbsup:

Looking great. Nice work here.

Murray

What kind of clear did you use?

Dennis, I used Gunze Mr. Top Coat (gloss) straight from the can. I've been using Gunze clears for all my builds for the past year or so and, in my limited experience, it's the best out there. It dries quick and hard and this one is ultra safe on decals (so far, at least :lol:).

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/KITS/ODDS%20and%20SODS/gunzetopcoatgloss.jpg

If decals are not involved (as in my Daytona from the Topless Trio thread), I use this one which dries even quicker and harder but - judging by the smell only - I am too cautious to put it over decals.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/KITS/ODDS%20and%20SODS/GunzeMrSuperClear.jpg

As some of my friends know :naughty:, clear coating stresses the living crap out of me so I tend to put mist coats on with my airbrush but put the wet coats down from the can.

With the DBR9 however, to save time, it all went on straight from the can in 2 coats 30 minutes apart - TBH the 2nd coat wasn't really necessary and I'm not sure if in fact it isn't a little too shiny but my showroom references of the car show that it really was high gloss so.....

Looks like you're building faster than me
No problem - I can just slow down :evillol: :naughty:

Great! fantastic and clean shine, mate.

Great shine. Not too much. Just the right amount!

beautiful work, ski... i must be careful or you'll have me ditching my small pile of styrene kits for multimedia kits. :lol:

Greetings :)


The kit decals for the window surrounds don’t look good and should be applied on the outside of the windows. However, on the 1/1 the black is obviously on the inside of the glass.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/window-surrounds_01.jpg

I was not keen to apply the decals on the inside (I am not fully convinced that it will look “black”) so I decided that the only logical solution is to mask and paint the black on the inside.

But how to cut the window masks?
They are quite complex shapes and I was afraid that cutting them by hand could look crappy and that cutting them on the clear parts ran the risk of scratching the glass (and after so much effort to cut them out cleanly, I wasn’t going to risk that!!)

What I really would like to have is some pre-cut window masks to put on.

I started thinking that a great way would be if I had a stencil but instead of running a pencil around the shape, I could run a knife blade – the stencil would give a firm guiding edge for the blade.


1. Shape of the decal traced onto kitchen paper
2. Paper flipped over and rubbed with end of pencil to transfer graphite to styrene sheet
3. “corners” drilled out with pin vice

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/window-surrounds_02.jpg


I used curve stencils to smooth out inaccuracies of my original tracing and then cut out the styrene with a fresh scalpel

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/window-surrounds_03.jpg


Stencil placed over masking tape stuck to the cutting mat and cut out. To get the mask for the other side of the car, the stencil is simply flipped over to get a mirror image :D

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/window-surrounds_04.jpg


The other side of the clear part was masked off and then the trim painted with Vallejo Satin Black (my favorite Satin black)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/window-surrounds_05.jpg


Here you can see the finished part.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/window-surrounds_06.jpg


And this is a test dry-fit

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/window-surrounds_07.jpg

Another advantage of a stencil approach will be “repeatability”, I am sure I will make more of these kits in the future (that’s the main reason I cast the nose piece ;) ) so the next builds will be easier :D

I am quite happy with the results and the technique.



On another front, I have begun slowly working on the interior.

This is the control panel – I think it has switches and fuses. The molded in knobs were filed away and holes drilled to accept 5 different diameters of rod and wire.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/control-panel_01.jpg


It was then “painted” black with a Sharpie permanent marker pen and covered with SMS hi-def CF decal.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/control-panel_02.jpg


Test fitting before adding the dials etc.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/control-panel_03.jpg



Thanks for looking in :thumbsup:

Hi Steve,

great job on the window trim as well as an easy-to-follow How-To :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

So, are you going to be the "Aston-Master" with plans for more DBR9s :lol: ?

Ok: now that you already (well) done, would you check if those surround would be black when applied mirrored inside? (at our benefit :D )

would you check if those surround would be black when applied mirrored inside?
I would....if I knew what you meant :grinyes:

The paint is applied to the inside of the window so that threre is a full gloss effect from the outside....

I would....if I knew what you meant :grinyes:

The paint is applied to the inside of the window so that threre is a full gloss effect from the outside....

ROFL! I knew you were eglish motherlanguage, not scotland: what I meant is since you done all with paint, now (with our blessing) you'll try to apply your spare sorrounds from inside (of a spare transparent) , for mirrored I meant mirrored LOL, since they're inside...

understand?

my god people are so keen until you touch them spare stash ROOOOOOOFL!!!! J/K

understand?

my god people are so keen until you touch them spare stash ROOOOOOOFL!!!! J/K
Now thanks to the wonders of Skype Translation Services, I fully understand... and the answer is "no" :lol:

j/k OK i'll try ut during the weekend and post the results...unless Dennis beats me to it :evillol:

Great work, Klutz! :)

Nuts!

But brilliant!

Now this is pod racing! This is the perfect wip, you come to a dilemma with the shading on the glass, you determine its not solid and then proceed to research its nature and figure out how to do it in scale as we all follow the story line. I think most of us would have just went with the decal. Naturally you come up with an in depth and perfect solution which makes it easier for the rest of us. This is like tuning into my favourate tv show every week. I think your tinted glass is top table, but you always manage to do some kind of magic trick.

Very nice! It shows you can always improve what you get in the kit. It takes more time but the result will reward you :-)

Fantastic project. How did you hold the roll cage tubes in place while you soldered them? Do you have a pic of the fixture? Or fixtures? Or chunk of clay or whatever?

Diddy

Now this is pod racing! haha yes! SW represent

Excellent job Stevenski i think a lot better road than the decal one

Very nice.The model is looking great with the clear on it.Nice job making the templates for the window masks,I'll have to try that myself sometime.

Fantastic project. How did you hold the roll cage tubes in place while you soldered them? Do you have a pic of the fixture? Or fixtures? Or chunk of clay or whatever?

Diddy
I can't remember!! :disappoin OMG! Old age has arrived :evillol: :lol:

I think it was just dry fitted together and maybe lightly held in place with a drop of CA. The joints were definitely not help together with clay or anything but I did drill out the holes a little before hand.

I may have used clay to hold the frame to my modeling mat while working on it...

Does that help?

Terrific work- that is a fine looking body. :eek: (If old age has arrived, you're wearing it well! :evillol: )

Nice precision work on the window painting. But out of curiousity, wouldn't the kit decals applied on the inside of the windows have been worth the try? The blemishes you were pointing out might well have been entirely invisible. Not that it matters at all at this point- but if you're going to do more, it might be worth trying.

... out of curiousity, wouldn't the kit decals applied on the inside of the windows have been worth the try? The blemishes you were pointing out might well have been entirely invisible. Not that it matters at all at this point- but if you're going to do more, it might be worth trying.
It's funny you should ask that because by strange coincidence.... :D

Trying this out beforehand was a non-option for the obvious reason that if it didn't work, I would have to remove the decal form the kit part and I would risk scratching it to bits or some other damage. Since I had too little confidence that it would work, I just made the decision to mask and paint.

However, testing afterwards - when I don't need the decals anymore - is a different kettle of fishski :lol:

Here are some photos of a test I did. I tried to be reasonably conscientious about deal placement even though it was only a test but still... ;)

IMO my concerns were justified.

There are white "bubbles" between the decal and the glass - I suspect this has something to do with the adhesive or whatever. This whiteness is most visible at an angle but always omnipresent.
The arrows show that the carrier layer is visible. I trimmed the inside edge as close as I could with a fresh scalpel. The external edge is left as it was printed.
The decal itself is a BEAR to lay down! The long thin strips make it very fragile and difficult to line up.


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/decal-inside_01.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/decal-inside_02.jpg




As you can see in the next photo, the crap on the black paint does not disappear so placing the decals on the outside (as indicated in the instructions) is also not really an option. I suppose putting Future over the glass and decal could be an option here.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/decal-outside_01.jpg


CONCLUSION: Masking and painting from the inside gives better results for similar (or less) effort and risk.

This is a photo of teh finished masked and painted parts (I will also be masking the headlight covers)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/glass_02.jpg

Painting definitely looks better.

Painting definitely looks better.

SO FAR.

Expect to receive some jobs to do LOL: how much at set? Can I trade with Asiago cheese, Parmigiano or Remole (not to mean Sopressa or Culatello)?

Thanks for trying, that saves me some trouble :p! The real problem is the carrier film which is really "big", this is the case for all the decals by the way. The bubbles might disappear with some micro sol and set...

So I have to make a template myself I guess...

SO FAR.

Expect to receive some jobs to do LOL: how much at set? Can I trade with Asiago cheese, Parmigiano or Remole (not to mean Sopressa or Culatello)?
Dude, you should make p/e templates and sell them :D

(actually TBH, my original idea was to ask you to scan the decals and make a p/e template but I figured that I had already asked enough favors for one year and went the styrene route instead :rofl:)

The windows turned out really nice, I must say !
Keep it up !

Fantastic solution to fix the decal issue, very innovative. I'm sure the switch panel will be great as well.:)

Dude, you should make p/e templates and sell them :D

(actually TBH, my original idea was to ask you to scan the decals and make a p/e template but I figured that I had already asked enough favors for one year and went the styrene route instead :rofl:)
I don't think a PE template would be the best: my aston is ever at Roberto's facility waiting the 312PB to be shipped (in good company with other cool stuff ;) LOL) . I will have those this week: a PDF template worked in illustrator would be a good compendium for your tip ;), just print on self-adv paper and go :D

But you done already a great job with dear old paleolithics tool LOL you>giant ;)

Edit: after 166 seats and Aston's surrounds, I'll start to ask to Mr. Hiro GSMRR "GiovenSky's Modelling Rescue Royalties". 1 sushi credit bonus/each model would be ok for you? ROFL

Edit: after 166 seats and Aston's surrounds, I'll start to ask to Mr. Hiro GSMRR "GiovenSky's Modelling Rescue Royalties". 1 sushi credit bonus/each model would be ok for you? ROFL
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
Good point! ;)

1.
There is a quite a lot of ducting in the cabin of the DBR

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/air-ref.jpg

To reproduce this I tried using a spring and heat shrink insulation. This was the first test using a tire valve spring.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/air-ventilation_01.jpg

This spring is too thick but the method works well. The heat shrink primes and paints easily. In the end I used 0.3mm wire wound around a 0.5mm brass rod.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/air-ventilation_02.jpg




2.
The kit part for the speedometer is a little uninspiring piece of white metal. I added a spare rear brake light decal for the red LED display

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/speedo_01.jpg

This reference photo show that the display is covered by some sort of screen (to reduce glace maybe?).

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/speedo_reference.jpg

A piece of blister pack acetate softened oper a handle and pulled down over a bamboo skewer. It was then trimmed to size and sprayed with Tamiya Smoke

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/speedo_02.jpg




3.
This reference photo show some kind of brass boss on the steering kolumn.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/steering-ref_01.jpg

The kit part looks like this

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/steering-kit_01.jpg

Plastic tube, drilled out and painted with Alclad Copper

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/steering-mod_01.jpg




4.
The ultimate heat shield/insulation kit: Gitanes sans filter and Micoscale foil adhesive.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/heat-cladding_01.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/heat-cladding_03.jpg




5.
I addend the switches, fuses, control lights to the control panel using wire, sprue and styrene rod colored with sharpie pens
The Top Studio connectors were painted with Alclad Copper, masked with Maskol and then sprayed satin black and washed with smoke. Glued in place and then wired up.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/Control-Panel_04.jpg



6,
TheSaint very kindly agreed to turn this part for me. I can’t begin to tell you how great he has designed and turned these pieces. I added some spare odds and end decals – not correct but they look nice ;)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/blower_01.jpg

with some test ducting

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/blower_02.jpg



7.
Bits ‘n pieces

Various spare decals used here and there

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/detail-decaling_01.jpg



8.
Started to wire things up

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/bosch-box_01.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/pedals_01.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/int-_02.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/int-progress.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/int-_03.jpg

Incredible work! , its truly all in the details.

Did you make the final dash duct assembly? if you wanted to even, you could use a black scale tube, wire or tube with wire inside; then take a very fine metal color wire and wrap it around it. you would get a lot finer convoluted wire size since you dont have heat shrink going over it making it thick. An extra plus no painting involved :naughty:

keep us posted. Great work Ski!

Man! That is sick Steven! Great job, I really appreciate the trick with the shrink tubing for the ducts - I will need some ducts for my F40 build and this looks like the way to make them! I wonder where can I get some shrink tubing in US? Also, thanks for posting pictures of completed Top Detail connectors - they look great.

Great stuff, I love watching you scratchbuild!

Now there's a real Klutzski solution!
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/Aston%20Martin%20DBR9%20LM%202005/speedo_02.jpg

For the venting, try wrapping the finest wire you can around a piece of pipecleaner. Put your tubing over that and shrink it down. The pipecleaner inside makes the vent line very easy to handle and bend to shape, and you can use really fine wire for the spiral detail. And pipecleaner happily works out to be about the correct dia for vent hoses.

That cockpit looks seriously fabulous.

Great Work!!

:grinyes:

I wonder where can I get some shrink tubing in US?
The home depot you can get a decent size multi size pack for real cheap and black, they also have some other colors (electrical dept.). Then theres Radio Shack n stuff but its probly a little more, as is everything lol.

Thanks Gents :thumbsup:

I wonder where can I get some shrink tubing in US?
Alex, I had to laugh when I read this - my shrink tubing came from the USA! :lol: I got mine here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?find=lastposter&t=736716) ;)

The same place is also a GREAT source for the wrapping wire that I have been using to wire this cockpit - it's nice and thin, beautifully flexible, has a great texture to the plastic and is available in a whole range of colors. IIRC available on eBay.

I wonder where can I get some shrink tubing in US?

Yeah, I got mine at Radio Hovel. It came in a multisize pack- but the wall thickness is a bit heavy. I'm not sure where to get good thin walled heatshrink, but I know it exists, and it would be ideal for vent hoses and the like.

I see my turned parts are in good hands :licka:

Looks great, the finished thing will be stunning!!!

I really like how you post the real thing and then your version of it, just so we can make sure you arent skimping on the details, your work is incredible. Speaking of which, your switches and fuses are amazing as are the connectors, wowsers!

Great job on the details! Love it!

Thanks Gents :thumbsup:


Alex, I had to laugh when I read this - my shrink tubing came from the USA! :lol: I got mine here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?find=lastposter&t=736716) ;)

The same place is also a GREAT source for the wrapping wire that I have been using to wire this cockpit - it's nice and thin, beautifully flexible, has a great texture to the plastic and is available in a whole range of colors. IIRC available on eBay.

You got it from Dan? LOL

You got it from Dan? LOL
Yes. Really :)

The tubing, the wire and now I think of it, the plastic stock that I used to make the "foot" for the blower to stand on.

I need to change the name of this thread to "Aston DBR66460" :lol:

Very impressive work! I like the a/b pics too, lot of fun :)

Yeah, I got mine at Radio Hovel. It came in a multisize pack- but the wall thickness is a bit heavy. I'm not sure where to get good thin walled heatshrink, but I know it exists, and it would be ideal for vent hoses and the like.

Well, there were those pickled earthworms we dissected in biology class....
:grinyes:

Diddy