Transmission question

I have a '00 Tiburon 5 speed. Just bought it....well I got the shaft, BIG TIME from this lousy dealership. I drove it barely for 2 weeks and the transmission goes out. I was told it was the clutch that went out. So...I have it towed to a mechanic. He works on it for over a week. Tries to get the tranny pulled off. It won't move but an inch and a half.

What is the transmission stuck on? Is there a rod or something this transmission sits on, or is it directly attached to the engine block itself?

The mechanic says that it got so hot inside the tranny, that everything has welded itself together and won't budge. I don't understand it. He's only used rods or something to pull, and pry it off, but it won't budge anymore than an inch and a half. If he can't get it off....is there ANYONE who could?

I called the Ohio Attorney General's office....talked to Consumer Affairs. I bought the car "as-is". I know, I know....I screwed myself and learned the hard way. So there is nothing that can be done legally about this. The dealership isn't responsible for anything now. It's basically up to me. I just spent $5,000 in CASH and WASTED it because someone drove that Tiburon too hard and they sold it to me, knowing damn well what was wrong with it. That is dirty.

So I ask you....can someone please tell me HOW I can get that transmission off my Tiburon? Also.....what is it that the transmission is attached to? Some kind of rod or the engine block itself? I don't understand. Thanks. :banghead:

Your mechanic is quite a bad one ... the problem is simple and took me 10 minutes to figure out :

REMOVE the TOB release arm this will allow the arm to turn as much as it needs to to let go of the TOB, if you just are moving the TOB release arm while its still bolted down it wont allow it to move enough to let go of the TOB.

Basic machanical logic, can't understand your mechanic is saying everything is welded inside, total BS from a guy that can't or shouldn't work on your car, when it's over DON'T let that guy touch your car again!!!

Jalmir,


He was able to move the transmission off by an inch and a half. Beyond that, it won't move. That's what you're referring to no doubt. Now....I'm wondering if he's bent or broken this "TOB release arm" because he said he's been pulling, and giving it "hell" and the tranny won't budge anymore. That's just great.... :banghead: I sure hope he didn't fudge nothing else up. If he did...I'll be very P-O'd.


*EDIT* I know what TOB means now. You are talking about my throw out bearing. So now...my question is this:

HOW does he "release" the TOB arm?

unbolt the one bolt of the TOB control arm on top of the tranny, as simple as that ;)

Good luck with that!

unbolt the one bolt of the TOB control arm on top of the tranny, as simple as that ;)

Good luck with that!

How long does it take to do this? Remove and install a tranny? Especially for someone who's never done it before......EVER! ha! Mechanics around here want $900 and thats just base price for tranny removal plus installation. :banghead::frown: Can I get a step by step procedure somewhere online for this? *sigh*.........

took me 2 days for my automatic transmission and about 1 day for a manual one, but the AT I was alone and the MT was with 2 friends.

There is a step by step on www.hmaservice.com it's the service website of Hyundai, quite usefull, registering is free and you will find tons of info there!

there is also www.rdtiburon.com it's a great forum (RD is the chassis code for 1996-2001 Tiburon ;) )


and there is a DIY on www.elantraxd.com (XD is the chassis code for the 2001-2006 Elantra! lol)

http://www.elantraxd.com/DIY/clutch.php

Good luck! :)

Ok...so this "mechanic" I had work on my Tib....he got the clutch replaced w/ a new stock clutch kit. Well....has anyone ever had any trouble with the tranny still slipping after the new clutch was put in and the flywheel turned? Umm...I'm starting to think I got jacked....hard.

It starts and makes a slight knocking noise, when you let off the gas to slow down, it makes the same noise, the clutch pedal is VERY slick....it's SUPER loud when you shift into reverse and makes the moaning gear sound (as normal) but LOUDER. :banghead:

I'm really starting to wonder here....:uhoh:

Something else I failed to mention....after it sat for a few hours...I moved the car...came back, and noticed a BUNCH of gear oil left on the street. Smelly stinky, almost clear colored, jelly-type liquid. That's gear oil, right??

wow ... ok, from what I can see you really were "jacked" as you said.

The installation seem to have problems : TOB was not replaced? or push plates were damaged because he tried to pry of the tranny off while the TOB control arm was still bolted?

There is a lot of possible problems for why it's acting like this, but the oil on the ground is simple : axle seals on the transmission, he should've checked them and replace them if needed, so you probably have an axle seal that need to be replaced, those are around 5$ each and are easy to replace AND should be checked when doing a clutch job.

Sorry to hear you're still having issues! :(

Thanks for your help Jalmir :grinyes: it's too bad I didn't know someone like you to work on my car for me. Ha!

Ok...so he did tell me about the axel grease and to let him know if it had problems. That's an understandable easy fix..

I will tell him about the other issues and I'm going to tell him to fix it...I'm not paying anymore and I don't want to hear from him until the car is fixed RIGHT. But then if I take my chances and go to another mechanic...it will cost me an arm and a leg. :frown: I've already shelled out $200 for the clutch kit, $250 for the work he did.

Can my car still be repaired after all of this or is it too far gone?

I forgot to add....I was told my tranny would slip for the first 1,500 miles and to let the clutch "swell" up....Ummm...????? :screwy::banghead:

There is nothing that can't be fixed and from what I've read yet it should be a simple problem that he SHOULD have seen comming (man, I'm NOT a mechanic and I know what to check while changing a clutch ... I swear I never worked in a garage! lolll). So as I said concerning the oil, it's probably the axle seals (and it's not axle grease but transmission oil), axle seals are doughnut shape gaskets that are on the transmission where the axles enters :

http://automedia.com/Replacing_Axle_Seals/ccr20060401as/1


and about the clutch : 1500 mile ??? wtf???

you DO have a "brake in" period but it's more in the range of 500 miles AND it shouldn't slip! (the new clutch I installed on Hyundai or other brand never ever slipped in the "brake-in" period!), when a clutch slip it's because it's due to be changed or because something in the clutch system (clutch cylinder or pressure plate) is not working correctly.

Heck Jalmir...where are you from...work on my car for me, would ya? HA HA! I NEED an experienced person who can change my clutch for me and fix this leakage problem. He tells me he's changed out 2 clutches before in an Eagle Talon....and they were stage 3 clutches made for racing...ok....so thats all fine and dandy...but then he says "yeah man...they even slip and are SUPPOSED to slip b/c they're made to get more traction and stuff..."

Umm....:screwy: :uhoh: wtf man....i dont think so. I REALLY need a mechanic to fix this guys' screw up's. and a CHEAP one too

sorry bro, I'm from Montreal, that's in Quebec, Canada ... pretty sure it's way too far! loll

And your mechanic just proved he don't know jack about clutch:
- Racing clutch don't slip AT ALL, they are ON/OFF clutch, friction = loss of power = loss of fractions of seconds that, in racing conditions, are vitals.

I have a friend that have a semi-racing clutch on his turbo Accent and man that clutch is hard AND it doesn't have a friction point! lollll now imagine a full racing setup that can hold 700-1000hp, those cluch must be quite something!