Another timing belt ???

Trying to find parts locally for 97rodeo with3.6l. Exactly what parts for tensioner do I need. Everyone wants to sell me a $200 kit. Is that what I need?????
I also have read that some belts are not marked correctly???
I can find water pump and belt fairly easily.
Thanks for any help.

Just so you know, I'm sure you do, probably just a typing error on your part; but, your Rodeo is a 3.2L, not a 3.6L.

I purchased my timing belt package through the dealer; it does cost more, but at least I know I got 100% Isuzu OEM parts. I use Isuzu parts for everything engine related on this truck.

Others have used timing belts that were not actual Isuzu belts and have had timing problems until they've switched to an Isuzu belt; something to do with the alignment marks on the belt - but don't quote me 100% on that.

You need to do *at minimum* timing belt, timing belt tensioner, and waterpump.

I have a '97 Rodeo too, but I included other items in addition to the above; i.e idler pulley, some other kind of pulley (can't remember, sorry)camshaft/crankshaft seals (mainly due to their age, and you're already there), hard to reach coolant hoses (at 10yrs of age, they're shot, trust me), coolant flush & take a good look at your radiator, if it's original and you're over 120k, it's probably about shot.

Also, if you haven't already make SURE to do the heater core hoses on the passanger fire wall; trust me, they are long past shot if they're original, and when they blow, they blow BIG and are HARD to find hoses. There's 2 of them, dealer or Napa only and expect to pay about $120> for both.

Also, you might as well replace all 3 of your driving belts, have to take them off anyways, and if they have 25k+ miles might as well.

what ramblin 's telling you -- since you need to do the timing belt, you might as well rebuild the engine while you're at it :evillol: :rofl:

i agree on the minimum stuff, and i agree on oem over ebay and other sources and on the extra pulleys they put in those kits, i suspect your origninal is better used than those are new...and you will want to replace those pulleys *if* an inspection shows they need replacing (bearings). others have had seal problems, so give that a consideration.

those 'kits' btw usually don't actually include the tensioner, which is absolutely necessary.

while some of the other stuff might need attention, i don't think you gain anything from doing them when you do the belt.

if your isuzu dealer is umpteen miles away, consider using a dealer in missouri who gives interenet discount, free shipping to your door, expert parts guy ask for MERLIN
http://isuzu.stcharlesauto.com/Department-Parts.aspx

//bc

Thamks guys. I think I will call St Charles Isuzu on Monday. I definetly need to get this done. It is making a lot of noise when cold. After this I am going to tackle half shafts.

Thamks guys. I think I will call St Charles Isuzu on Monday. I definetly need to get this done. It is making a lot of noise when cold. After this I am going to tackle half shafts.
WOW !!! hold on der....
what you mean " It is making a lot of noise when cold. ""
the new timing belt and tensioner, etc. isn't going to solve that -- if you mean the valve ticking noise. please clarify what the noise is.

//bc

It is a LITTLE noisy, partially because of squeaky altenator belt. I have read that these need to be pretty tight. I have heard other Rodeos, they all seem to be a little noisy.

Just so you know, I'm sure you do, probably just a typing error on your part; but, your Rodeo is a 3.2L, not a 3.6L.Could also be a 2.6L.

And yes, I have the 3.3L :wink::wink::wink:

I really don't see the need for the replacing of every part under the timing cover. I've done a lot of timing belts and the 3.2L Isuzu is one of the easiest to do. Takes me about 40 minutes without hurrying. What I do is give each pulley or idler a spin and if it spins fast and takes a while to stop, it gets replaced. Wiggle the water pump shaft, look for leaks near the weep hole, if no play or evidence of leaks, it's still good.

I think the difference is in the way the trucks are used, my rodeo would be considered under severe service. Most items probably didn't need changed, but I VERY frequently find myself hundreds of miles from no-where and require a very dependable vehicle, and I hate having a vacation interrupted by a major expense should some $5 part break that was in the same area as the other items I had just replaced.

Also, I am VERY paranoid about overheating conditions, thus keep watchful eye on my coolant hoses, cause these are all aluminum engines, and I've had to endure the horrible expense of replacing a toyota engine simply because I didn't *think* 9-10yrs of age required replacing hoses that *looked* ok.

However, 95% of the world has better luck then I, so I would just do the pump, belt and tensioner.

Your cold weather tapping could be do to oil thickening overnight and taking a few seconds longer to reach top of engine.

The above is depending on whether you have the 3.2L V6, if you have the 2.6L, I know nothing of that engine.

Ok guys, I ordered the tensioner and timing belt from St Charles. I guess I have to do this now. I just need a water pump and a case of beer, both found locally. Breaker bar against frame technique will be used. And should I rent a puller??

I didn't need one for my FL truck.

Ok guys, I ordered the tensioner and timing belt from St Charles. I guess I have to do this now. I just need a water pump and a case of beer, both found locally. Breaker bar against frame technique will be used. And should I rent a puller??

i absolutely needed one for my 1992 trooper -- you can get a fairly good one from harbor freight btw.
others have absolutely *not* need one.
just don't go banging and excessive prying on that harmonic balancer.

btw -- why didn't you buy the oem water pump?

//bc

Smart move going with the OEM.....I bought a kit off ebay including tensioner $215. Ended putting it on 3 times without timing being right because it only had 2 marks instead of 3. Also still had my knocking with the non OEM tensioner. Bought a new belt and tensioner from the dealer pt it on in 30 min and all problems gone. I also rented a pulley puller from Autozone to get my harmonic balancer off. Not trying to rob the thread but did anyone check to see what, if any, cylinders were at TDC when they did this job. I just lined the marks up popped the old one off and the new one on never checking for TDC on any cylinder.

oem water pump was pretty expensive. I may check out harbor freight for puller. We have one locally.

Smart move going with the OEM.....I bought a kit off ebay including tensioner $215. Ended putting it on 3 times without timing being right because it only had 2 marks instead of 3. Also still had my knocking with the non OEM tensioner. Bought a new belt and tensioner from the dealer pt it on in 30 min and all problems gone. I also rented a pulley puller from Autozone to get my harmonic balancer off. Not trying to rob the thread but did anyone check to see what, if any, cylinders were at TDC when they did this job. I just lined the marks up popped the old one off and the new one on never checking for TDC on any cylinder.

Yeah, I don't know why anyone pays attention to the marks on the belt. The marks for the cam and crank are very clear. I also did the mark and match method and ignored the marks on the belt. As I remember it, they didn't correspond to the correct marks on the pullies. I'm kinda curious to know the position of the cylinders at TDC, too, though I hope I never have to worry about it!

Good afternoon all,

I was wondering if anybody has had any problems with the timing marks not aligning at all. The RH bank timing mark never lines up completely when the other two marks are aligned. I'm waiting on a new cam sprocket to arrive. It chipped a few teeth which chewed up the belt a little. Just trying to figure out if I am doing something wrong or what?

Good afternoon all,

I was wondering if anybody has had any problems with the timing marks not aligning at all. The RH bank timing mark never lines up completely when the other two marks are aligned. I'm waiting on a new cam sprocket to arrive. It chipped a few teeth which chewed up the belt a little. Just trying to figure out if I am doing something wrong or what?

your vehicle, year, engine...?
do you mean when you are putting the belt on, the cam kind of jumps?
or something different?

//bc

Sorry I shouldv'e been a bit clearer w/ my question. I have a 97 3.2L. I was driving and heard a loud rattling noise. Opened the hood and could hear/feel right away the noise was coming from behind the timing belt cover. I shut the engine off and towed it to my garage. I pulled everything and found the RH cam sprocket had lost a few teeth which chewed up some of the timing belt, but the belt is still intact. I have the sprocket on back order from Isuzu, but in the mean time I am doing the waterpump and a few other things. I am trying to align the timing marks before I pull the belt off, but they do not align completely. I can get the crank mark and the LH cam mark on point but the RH cam is about an inch off. I have gone through 2 complete belt cycles but the marks never truly align. I am also wondering how hard it is going to be to keep it aligned when I do finally pull the cam sprocket off. Thanks Ken

Sorry for Hijacking this thread

Sorry I shouldv'e been a bit clearer w/ my question. I have a 97 3.2L. I was driving and heard a loud rattling noise. Opened the hood and could hear/feel right away the noise was coming from behind the timing belt cover. I shut the engine off and towed it to my garage. I pulled everything and found the RH cam sprocket had lost a few teeth which chewed up some of the timing belt, but the belt is still intact. I have the sprocket on back order from Isuzu, but in the mean time I am doing the waterpump and a few other things. I am trying to align the timing marks before I pull the belt off, but they do not align completely. I can get the crank mark and the LH cam mark on point but the RH cam is about an inch off. I have gone through 2 complete belt cycles but the marks never truly align. I am also wondering how hard it is going to be to keep it aligned when I do finally pull the cam sprocket off. Thanks Ken

Sorry for Hijacking this thread ok. you don't have to pre-align things before you dismantle. it can take a number of revolutions to get it all to align that way, or it's possible you jumped a notch or two anyway, especially considering your gear.

to install, just align all the marks like the manual says. then install the belt and use those springy paper clippy clamps to hold the belt to each of the cams and crank. a good aid for the new or occasional tb installer. it's easy enough, but you want to make sure that all the marks are aligned when you are all done. the crank one can be difficult to see. just follow the manual about moving the cams etc and then make sure they are aligned again before moving on.

what manual are you using?

//bc

I'm using a haynes and all it says is to align the timing marks before pulling the belt. So thats what I tried to do for about half an hour! This manual is kinda pointless to even have. It told me to hold the crank pulley with water-pump pliers and sandpaper while trying to break the crank bolt loose. lol. Thanks for your help trooper.

Okay guys. How do you tighten the crank bolt???

Everything came apart great. I had everything back on except accesory belts, when I looked down and saw my new water pump still in the box. Just the way things happen for me. It is easier the second time.

Yeah, if you used the starter bump method to loosen the crank bolt, then you don't have the experience with 2 breaker bars that you need to tighten it. I used a pipe wrench and pipe on the water pump and a socket with a breaker bar and a rectangular tube extension on the crank bolt to loosen and tighten things. Did you get a new crank bolt?

As far as getting things lined up before removing the belt...it's not going to happen if you skipped a few teeth, no matter how long you try. Just get it pretty close and dont let the pulleys turn after you take the belt off. Adjust them slightly to get the marks dead on, then put the new belt on. All of the slack should be at the tensioner. Then you release the tensioner pin.

Thanks for all the help everybody. Job complete. Sounds much better. Not so bad of a job after all.

Just wrenching. I spent a Saturday goofing around with my timing belt change.

Thanks for all the help everybody. Job complete. Sounds much better. Not so bad of a job after all. that's good...
any tips, insights, photos ?

//bc