Omg...what's Wrong??? Please Help W/ My Si Civic

Ok, so I was driving last week on the freeway when my engine and tach started doing weird things.

-I was doing 120 and my tach was at 4000
-All of a sudden my engine starts studdering and the tach dropped from 4 to 3 to 4 to 2 to 4
-I dropped the car out of gear a coasted for 10 sec then back into 5th and ok for 10 sec, then happened again, so I dropped down to 4th and it was ok
-I went to the store came back to work, didn't go over 100 and it was ok

It's been ok since last friday, then this morning on my way to work, I revved past an ass doing 20 in a 50 zone and then my tach died to 0, so I dropped out of gear and back in, and nothing, I couldn't get my engine/drive to go anywhere.
The engine was on (you could hear it running), I had the car in first but it wouldn't rev or move. I turned it off and back on and it was doing a 'studder' move and I was finally able to get to work, but I don't know what's wrong.....anyone???

I've had a code 1 (o2 sensor) flashing for like 2 weeks, but if that were the problem it'd happen all the time and it doesn't =( what do i do??? =( Please help and thanks in advance =)

what year? and sounds like transmission problems...

it's an 89

ok, so I went and reset the computer, took it for a drive, and when i rev over 3000 the tach still jumps...it won't smoothly move from 3-4 it gets SO jumpy. The computer isn't flashing any codes now but the car and tach are still really jumpy. As well, I noticed that apparently I lost 1/8 tank of gas in like 10 blocks. Could all these problems be linked??? what is the problem??? please help =)

if it acts like you're hitting a rev limiter around 3-4000 rpm it's your coil or ignitor. you know how to check for spark? that's where i'd start.

no, i don't know how to check for spark and don't really feel like looking it up...lol...can you brief me, please =) the engine doesn't feel like it doesn't wanna go any further it just gets jumpy (engine and tach), it won't hold at the high rpm like a rev limiter does, it jumps

one guy on another forum is saying that it could be the o2 sensor not sending the right info to the computer and robbing the system, could that be possible???

one guy on another forum is saying that it could be the o2 sensor not sending the right info to the computer and robbing the system, could that be possible???


You have dizzy problems, that o2 code is probably indicative of you running rich due to all the unburned fuel that is not getting ignited. A jumpy tach always points to your dizzy.

'dizzy'??? is there a way to check the ignitor without changing it???

dizzy = distributor

oh *blushing* sorry =) I'm familiar with cars just not some of the 'lingo' =) thanks =)

All of those sensors are located inside the dizzy, and the tach gets its signal right from it.

isn't the o2 sensor hooked to the header?

Like Amy said, your Ignitor and Coil are going bad and sending out fucked up signals. Replace them and you will be fine.

But you aren't hitting rev limiter like she said, im not sure where she got that from. The tach is jumping around because it gets its input from the coil and ignitor and when they are on the fritz the tach signal gets all messed up.

she said 'feels like' hitting a rev limiter =) the feel of the jumpy engine in association with my jumpy tach =)

thanks everyone =) I'm gonna try both the o2 sensor and the ignitor and go from there =) the ignitor is $80 and the o2 sensor is $60...so not too bad =)

thanks everyone =) I'm gonna try both the o2 sensor and the ignitor and go from there =) the ignitor is $80 and the o2 sensor is $60...so not too bad =)

BTW, have you even taken your dizzy cap off to see if your rotor came loose? This is a very common problem with these cars. Try the simple things before needlessly spending up the ass for parts you may not even need (like $60 for a goddam o2 sensor??? where are you getting your parts?)

The o2 sensor is not going to cause that kind of problem for youm, believe me. In the two years I had my crx I never DIDNT have a problem with o2 sensors, Ive even run without both of them. They caused the car to randomly shut off but never act like it was hitting the rev limiter. Although one time for an hour or so they made it sputter and shut off alot.

hmmmm...i've never taken the cap off...i will do that first =) and i'm gonna do fuel injector cleaner too, then i'm gonna go to the o2 sensor (might as well b/c my hydrocarbons were high on my emissions test too)...and if that doesn't solve it, go from there =) i'm in canada and $60 for the o2 sensor is SUPER cheap (discount for using my work account) I called other places and they are charging like $100-$120...stupid ridiculous prices!!!

Keep us informed, hope it works out.

totally will...thanks =)

sorry i had to leave town the day you asked the question. i left my reply and then bounced out.

hybrid i said "feels like"...it is a common symptom for a bad coil (generally before the ignitor) for it to feel jumpy or like hitting a limiter above/around 3000-4000rpm. i've seen it many times. you just have to trust me.

it could even be the rotor fallen off as CRXperiment mentioned.

as the others i doubt it's o2 but if it needs to be changed as it is, then do it to it!

the best way i can tell you to check for spark is a 2 person action. pull out a spark plug. keeping the wire attached at the top you need to ground the bottom to something. often you can loop into your ground wire. this is where you need the second person. 1 person cranks the car, the other looks for spark. then you rinse & repeat 3 more times to check all 4. you're checking for weak or no spark.

all these big strong mens around and nobody can tell her how to check for spark :nono: shame on you mens!

Another thing to check for is the fat white wire connection on top of the alternator. The symptoms you've described are exactly what happens when it is loose and the connection intermittent. Another overlooked culprit could be the engine harness ground that connects to the thermostat. Similar symptoms if that thing is loose and causing intermittent connections to all of your engine's sensors that are grounded I.E. distributor.

:runaround: Well, it happened again and the car TOTALLY crapped out last night...last night instead of the code 1 it was a code 15, so my husband came and we checked spark and ended up taking the dizzy apart and removed the ignitor...we went and bought a new one and it seems fine now...it even seems to run smoother...is that possible??? we'll see how long this lasts...lol =) thanks for the help everyone =) :runaround:

should be fine now, and yes, it's completely possible for it to run smoother now that it's changed, the thing is, they don't just go out all at once... the ignitor and coil get weak over time, and thus send less and less percent of the original signal...

Try getting my dad to understand that w/ older cars... "as long as the spark plugs shoot spark, it's a good coil" lmao