heater core replacement
95_sportage
09-10-2007, 10:15 AM
I have a 95 Sportage - with a leaking/blown heater core. Fluid drips on pass. side floor, smells like hot antifreeze in cab, and sticky residue on windshield.
I see on here there are some posts that refer to a simpler way to replace the core - cutting out a cover and removing it without tearing apart half the dash? does anyone have a succes story on that??
if not, i'll take pictures as I go.
thanks.
I see on here there are some posts that refer to a simpler way to replace the core - cutting out a cover and removing it without tearing apart half the dash? does anyone have a succes story on that??
if not, i'll take pictures as I go.
thanks.
LMP
09-11-2007, 05:03 AM
Real problem is the KIA instructions tell you would have to evacuate the a/c to enable taking the whole heater unit out.
check this out instead: you still dismantle the dash but save the a/c:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB70&Number=1017421
check this out instead: you still dismantle the dash but save the a/c:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB70&Number=1017421
95_sportage
10-15-2007, 07:10 AM
OK - So I tackled the heater core yesterday. Bought one from Rock Auto for $85, it had crimped ends instead of glued. Took off all trim and glovebox and removed most every screw I could find. For the dash to come out I ended up breaking off the 2 upper most screws that are in the far upper corners by the pillars. How anyone could reach those from inside is beyond me, but less than 1" from those screws is the bolt that the pillar cover trim covers so i am not worried about the dash not being held in place.
Only other major hassle was the heater controls. the faceplate is too wide and I couldn't get the cables disconnected so ended up breaking one side of the plate accidently. I plan to glue it, but once it was "narrower" I was able to slide the dash over it.
OK, one other hassle was the screws that hold the center dash panel on (the one that covers each side of the radio and heater controls.) it's held on with 2 screws that attach from the back, you will need a slim stubby star screwdriver, OR use a 1/4 drive socket with the screwdriver bit as I did.
with the dash off, it was easy to cut out the heater core cover (actually only cut 3 sides, and bent it over like a flap/door) and then go under the hood and remove the hoses, then go back and slide out the core. It showed evidence of major leaking. Cleaned out the opening and slid in the new. Replaced the hoses and replaced lower spring type hose clamp with a regular hose clamp. Reaching the hoses is a bear but very possible with patience and a minor back sprain.
got the dash back in and plan to re-install the trim and wrap it up tonight.
While I was under there, I popped out the blower motor - it looks clean and moves freely. Since it only ever worked on speeds 1-2 and not 3-4, I suspect the resistor switch pack - is that the thing with the heat sink attached?? where to get a new one - anyone know?
anyhow this is a very "do-able" project, just take your time, and take a few breaks as it can get frustrating, just remember you are saving your self HUNDREDS. If you are not a purist and don't mind a few shortcuts that will possibly alter the original genius construction haha then you can do this!
IN HINDSIGHT
You shouldn't have to remove the entire dash although it gives plenty of extra room to cut out the panel opening. I think it could be done by removing the radio, consoles, center dash panel and the glove box.
there's lot's I am forgetting but overall it wasn't the nightmare i was expecting. Just more like a bad dream :lol:
Only other major hassle was the heater controls. the faceplate is too wide and I couldn't get the cables disconnected so ended up breaking one side of the plate accidently. I plan to glue it, but once it was "narrower" I was able to slide the dash over it.
OK, one other hassle was the screws that hold the center dash panel on (the one that covers each side of the radio and heater controls.) it's held on with 2 screws that attach from the back, you will need a slim stubby star screwdriver, OR use a 1/4 drive socket with the screwdriver bit as I did.
with the dash off, it was easy to cut out the heater core cover (actually only cut 3 sides, and bent it over like a flap/door) and then go under the hood and remove the hoses, then go back and slide out the core. It showed evidence of major leaking. Cleaned out the opening and slid in the new. Replaced the hoses and replaced lower spring type hose clamp with a regular hose clamp. Reaching the hoses is a bear but very possible with patience and a minor back sprain.
got the dash back in and plan to re-install the trim and wrap it up tonight.
While I was under there, I popped out the blower motor - it looks clean and moves freely. Since it only ever worked on speeds 1-2 and not 3-4, I suspect the resistor switch pack - is that the thing with the heat sink attached?? where to get a new one - anyone know?
anyhow this is a very "do-able" project, just take your time, and take a few breaks as it can get frustrating, just remember you are saving your self HUNDREDS. If you are not a purist and don't mind a few shortcuts that will possibly alter the original genius construction haha then you can do this!
IN HINDSIGHT
You shouldn't have to remove the entire dash although it gives plenty of extra room to cut out the panel opening. I think it could be done by removing the radio, consoles, center dash panel and the glove box.
there's lot's I am forgetting but overall it wasn't the nightmare i was expecting. Just more like a bad dream :lol:
LMP
10-15-2007, 08:59 AM
IN HINDSIGHT
You shouldn't have to remove the entire dash although it gives plenty of extra room to cut out the panel opening. I think it could be done by removing the radio, consoles, center dash panel and the glove box.
Great: good work and these dollars are better in your pocket: a real inspiration for others because this problem is widespread. ANd indeed..some new pictures
HERE (www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=1045928)
With the experience of all put together, what was stated as an halloween nightmare a few years ago might end up almost as a common maintenance intervention....
And yes, the heat sink thing is the resistor pack. BUt according to this diagram
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/blowercontrol.jpg
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/blowercontrol.pdf
the higher speed is fed direct to motor out of the resistor, and the current for 1 and 2 speeds goes through the 3rd speed resistor anyway and if it was shot, you would not have 1-2 either...so there might be something wrong with the switch itself or wiring..better check that out first.
You shouldn't have to remove the entire dash although it gives plenty of extra room to cut out the panel opening. I think it could be done by removing the radio, consoles, center dash panel and the glove box.
Great: good work and these dollars are better in your pocket: a real inspiration for others because this problem is widespread. ANd indeed..some new pictures
HERE (www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=1045928)
With the experience of all put together, what was stated as an halloween nightmare a few years ago might end up almost as a common maintenance intervention....
And yes, the heat sink thing is the resistor pack. BUt according to this diagram
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/blowercontrol.jpg
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/blowercontrol.pdf
the higher speed is fed direct to motor out of the resistor, and the current for 1 and 2 speeds goes through the 3rd speed resistor anyway and if it was shot, you would not have 1-2 either...so there might be something wrong with the switch itself or wiring..better check that out first.
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