ticking noise coming from engine...also never ending service light
Willy Wonka
09-09-2007, 10:19 PM
Got an 02 trailblazer EXT, i sometimes hear a ticking noise coming from the engine, is it my fan clutch? do i need a new one?
i also have the never ending serive engine light on, it never goes away. i just recently replaced the gas tank, but the light is still there :O '
thx for any thoughts
i also have the never ending serive engine light on, it never goes away. i just recently replaced the gas tank, but the light is still there :O '
thx for any thoughts
maxwedge
09-10-2007, 03:01 PM
What is the code? Info missing is important.
Willy Wonka
09-10-2007, 11:04 PM
what do you mean? tell me the info i need to give and i will go get it. thanks for any help maxwedge.
maxwedge
09-11-2007, 04:17 PM
The code that needs to be read with a scanner for the check engine light.
fortcarp
09-27-2007, 07:48 PM
Have the code read at autozone and post here what it is so the members can better help you with your problem.
BRD
09-28-2007, 11:14 AM
Your dealer did the gas tank R&R per the EXT/XUV recall, right? I'd get it back to the dealer on that SES - my guess (that's all) would be the fuel system's still sucking a little air somewhere. Dealer should pull codes & trouble-shoot it. Ticking sound is a commonly-reported symptom of a failing fan clutch. You can try pulling codes on that, but the way people usually determine the thing has gone bad is it won't release after the engine has run a few seconds and sounds like a jet engine under the hood, drags performance way down in shifts from first to second gear.
Willy Wonka
10-04-2007, 10:27 AM
Your dealer did the gas tank R&R per the EXT/XUV recall, right? I'd get it back to the dealer on that SES - my guess (that's all) would be the fuel system's still sucking a little air somewhere. Dealer should pull codes & trouble-shoot it. Ticking sound is a commonly-reported symptom of a failing fan clutch. You can try pulling codes on that, but the way people usually determine the thing has gone bad is it won't release after the engine has run a few seconds and sounds like a jet engine under the hood, drags performance way down in shifts from first to second gear.
damn thanks a ton BRD, and i have been noticing it shifting prty hard in the first 2 gears, esp when i start it up in the morning.
should i buy my own fan clutch over the inet, and have it installed? they tried to charge me 750 for it being done. i think i can get one for 250 and have it installed for 100?
damn thanks a ton BRD, and i have been noticing it shifting prty hard in the first 2 gears, esp when i start it up in the morning.
should i buy my own fan clutch over the inet, and have it installed? they tried to charge me 750 for it being done. i think i can get one for 250 and have it installed for 100?
BRD
10-04-2007, 01:59 PM
$250 is in the ballpark for that part. However, before you spend any $$$ for a fan clutch replacement, do a couple of things to verify and get the right result. I assume your mechanic or shop has a code reading device. Use it, see what you get back. You may or may not get a code back on that F/C at the time you check it with the scanner. Another way is to get an experienced mechanic who's familiar with TB's and Envoys to drive the thing (after it's up to operating temp) and listen while you ride and listen. Chances are good he'll pick up on it. The F/C was a very common problem.
Go down the threads on this page and look at my reply to justin1272 of some few days ago. In the 6/14/07 post I refer to there, you'll find the GM part # and the GM document # (TSB) for the modified F/C and re-flash instructions GM came with approximately at the time they were building model year '05. Be careful shopping on the internet because some of the fan clutches you'll see for sale as "OEM" are the ones that GM ended up replacing because so many proved defective. You don't want that. If enough members/users here need the info maybe Maxwedge could be coaxed into posting it as a sticky. With the part # you can check GM Parts Direct or OEMhq for an online quote. Others may have it in stock as well.
Be advised, too, your mechanic or shop needs the eqpt and GM software to do the re-flash once the new F/C is on. If he can do the job right for $100 labor, that's cheap, but don't ruin your radiator removing the old F/C. GM actually advises removal of the grille and pulling the radiator or at least moving it off to the side with the top hose disconnected. That's what runs up the labor time at a dealer's shop. However, some folks have acquired or made pulling tools/wrenches/clamps they say they can do it with while the radiator & grille remain in place. So I'll leave it with you and your mechanic/shop on that issue. Good luck.
Go down the threads on this page and look at my reply to justin1272 of some few days ago. In the 6/14/07 post I refer to there, you'll find the GM part # and the GM document # (TSB) for the modified F/C and re-flash instructions GM came with approximately at the time they were building model year '05. Be careful shopping on the internet because some of the fan clutches you'll see for sale as "OEM" are the ones that GM ended up replacing because so many proved defective. You don't want that. If enough members/users here need the info maybe Maxwedge could be coaxed into posting it as a sticky. With the part # you can check GM Parts Direct or OEMhq for an online quote. Others may have it in stock as well.
Be advised, too, your mechanic or shop needs the eqpt and GM software to do the re-flash once the new F/C is on. If he can do the job right for $100 labor, that's cheap, but don't ruin your radiator removing the old F/C. GM actually advises removal of the grille and pulling the radiator or at least moving it off to the side with the top hose disconnected. That's what runs up the labor time at a dealer's shop. However, some folks have acquired or made pulling tools/wrenches/clamps they say they can do it with while the radiator & grille remain in place. So I'll leave it with you and your mechanic/shop on that issue. Good luck.
Willy Wonka
10-04-2007, 02:51 PM
I got an updated fc for 140$!! im going to print out your post BRD and take it to where ever i go, ill be taking it to the chevy place i think so... they will probably know. i didnt make sure myself that i needed a new fc but i have been told by 2 different mechanics that i do.. so.. w/e
im going to take my car to midus and have them search for an evap leak, i think thats what the service engine soon light is on for..
thanks alot again :)
im going to take my car to midus and have them search for an evap leak, i think thats what the service engine soon light is on for..
thanks alot again :)
maxwedge
10-04-2007, 02:58 PM
Midas for a possibly complex check engine lite? Updated aftermarket F/C's seem to work ok, have one in my 2002, with no reflash, they all are going bad it seems, the OE's that is. If the CEL started after the recall as mentioned, this may have been caused by the dealer, especially if it is a po440-455 code.
BRD
10-04-2007, 05:36 PM
Congrats on the F/C. I hope it's what the doc ordered. Maxwedge is right that if you can just get one that wasn't manufactured to fail - whether GM's modified one or an aftermkt OE copy - you'll probably be OK. It's the modified GM F/C that requires the re-flash as spelled out in that TSB.
Midas might be OK for the SES check. Before you go dumping any $$$ down rabbit trails, however, have you tried a new gasoline filler cap? Maybe an auto parts store would let you. A loose or leaking (air) gasoline cap is the MOST common cause of the SES light not going out once the engine is running. Beyond that, I dunno what electronically-reported code to tell you to look for. Some people have reported "410" and thereabouts and the culprit turned out to be the gasoline filler cao.
Midas might be OK for the SES check. Before you go dumping any $$$ down rabbit trails, however, have you tried a new gasoline filler cap? Maybe an auto parts store would let you. A loose or leaking (air) gasoline cap is the MOST common cause of the SES light not going out once the engine is running. Beyond that, I dunno what electronically-reported code to tell you to look for. Some people have reported "410" and thereabouts and the culprit turned out to be the gasoline filler cao.
dube5878
10-04-2007, 06:46 PM
I had my car checked out for the same ticking noise. It wasn't all the time and I would notice it more when I would have the air conditioner running. I could sometimes still hear it going 30 mph. Anyway what they told me was that it was the sylenoid telling the fan to speed up, but in actuallity it was going fast enough. So to fix that I would have to go to the dealership and get my computer reprogrammed. Haven't had it done yet because I don't wanna get the sticker shock when they tell me how much $ and how long they will need it for.
Willy Wonka
10-04-2007, 11:18 PM
Im a fucking newb man, i was alrdy told that the gas cap was bad so i ended up dropping 80 dollars on a new one I dont think it did anything..
envoyxuv
10-06-2007, 09:34 PM
I got an updated fc for 140$!! im going to print out your post BRD and take it to where ever i go, ill be taking it to the chevy place i think so... they will probably know. i didnt make sure myself that i needed a new fc but i have been told by 2 different mechanics that i do.. so.. w/e
im going to take my car to midus and have them search for an evap leak, i think thats what the service engine soon light is on for..
thanks alot again :)
Not trying to stick it to anyone here, but maybe you should just take your vehicle to ONE service department and actually have the codes pulled and diagnosed. Don't assume what the problem is and tell a repair station to fix it. A good tech won't listen to what a customer thinks the problem is- he starts from scratch and diagnoses the problem. Don't get me wrong here- a good tech will also listen to the customer describe the problem so he can accurately diagnose the conern. Describing the problem and diagnosing the problem are two completely different things.
By taking your vehicle to multiple repair stations for different problems is asking for more problems. Now, instead of one dealer that knows the history of your car and knows how to take care of it, you've got 2 or 3 shops involved in trying to fix your vehicle, with no idea of its service history.
Your check engine light could mean ANY of these codes are set:
DTC
P0013
PCM
P0014
PCM
P0105
PCM
P0107
PCM
P0108
PCM
P0112
PCM
P0113
PCM
P0116
PCM
P0117
PCM
P0118
PCM
P0122
PCM
P0123
PCM
P0125
PCM
P0128
PCM
P0130
PCM
P0131
PCM
P0132
PCM
P0133
PCM
P0134
PCM
P0135
PCM
P0137
PCM
P0138
PCM
P0140
PCM
P0141
PCM
P0171
PCM
P0172
PCM
P0201
PCM
P0202
PCM
P0203
PCM
P0204
PCM
P0205
PCM
P0206
PCM
P0218
PCM
P0300
PCM
P0301
PCM
P0302
PCM
P0303
PCM
P0304
PCM
P0305
PCM
P0306
PCM
P0326
PCM
P0327
PCM
P0332
PCM
P0335
PCM
P0336
PCM
P0340
PCM
P0341
PCM
P0420
PCM
P0440
PCM
P0442
PCM
P0446
PCM
P0452
PCM
P0453
PCM
P0461
PCM
P0462
PCM
P0463
PCM
P0495
PCM
P0502
PCM
P0503
PCM
P0506
PCM
P0507
PCM
P0530
PCM
P0562
PCM
P0563
PCM
P0567
PCM
P0568
PCM
P0601
PCM
P0602
PCM
P0604
PCM
P0606
PCM
P0607
PCM
P0621
PCM
P0622
PCM
P0705
PCM
P0711
PCM
P0712
PCM
P0713
PCM
P0719
PCM
P0724
PCM
P0740
PCM
P0741
PCM
P0742
PCM
P0748
PCM
P0751
PCM
P0752
PCM
P0753
PCM
P0756
PCM
P0757
PCM
P0758
PCM
P0785
PCM
P1120
PCM
P1133
PCM
P1137
PCM
P1138
PCM
P1171
PCM
P1220
PCM
P1221
PCM
P1271
PCM
P1275
PCM
P1280
PCM
P1336
PCM
P1345
PCM
P1380
PCM
P1381
PCM
P1441
PCM
P1481
PCM
P1482
PCM
P1484
PCM
P1512
PCM
P1514
PCM
P1515
PCM
P1516
PCM
P1523
PCM
P1571
PCM
P1574
PCM
P1621
PCM
P1630
PCM
P1631
PCM
P1632
PCM
P1635
PCM
P1639
PCM
P1680
PCM
P1681
PCM
P1683
PCM
P1810
PCM
P1860
PCM
P1870
im going to take my car to midus and have them search for an evap leak, i think thats what the service engine soon light is on for..
thanks alot again :)
Not trying to stick it to anyone here, but maybe you should just take your vehicle to ONE service department and actually have the codes pulled and diagnosed. Don't assume what the problem is and tell a repair station to fix it. A good tech won't listen to what a customer thinks the problem is- he starts from scratch and diagnoses the problem. Don't get me wrong here- a good tech will also listen to the customer describe the problem so he can accurately diagnose the conern. Describing the problem and diagnosing the problem are two completely different things.
By taking your vehicle to multiple repair stations for different problems is asking for more problems. Now, instead of one dealer that knows the history of your car and knows how to take care of it, you've got 2 or 3 shops involved in trying to fix your vehicle, with no idea of its service history.
Your check engine light could mean ANY of these codes are set:
DTC
P0013
PCM
P0014
PCM
P0105
PCM
P0107
PCM
P0108
PCM
P0112
PCM
P0113
PCM
P0116
PCM
P0117
PCM
P0118
PCM
P0122
PCM
P0123
PCM
P0125
PCM
P0128
PCM
P0130
PCM
P0131
PCM
P0132
PCM
P0133
PCM
P0134
PCM
P0135
PCM
P0137
PCM
P0138
PCM
P0140
PCM
P0141
PCM
P0171
PCM
P0172
PCM
P0201
PCM
P0202
PCM
P0203
PCM
P0204
PCM
P0205
PCM
P0206
PCM
P0218
PCM
P0300
PCM
P0301
PCM
P0302
PCM
P0303
PCM
P0304
PCM
P0305
PCM
P0306
PCM
P0326
PCM
P0327
PCM
P0332
PCM
P0335
PCM
P0336
PCM
P0340
PCM
P0341
PCM
P0420
PCM
P0440
PCM
P0442
PCM
P0446
PCM
P0452
PCM
P0453
PCM
P0461
PCM
P0462
PCM
P0463
PCM
P0495
PCM
P0502
PCM
P0503
PCM
P0506
PCM
P0507
PCM
P0530
PCM
P0562
PCM
P0563
PCM
P0567
PCM
P0568
PCM
P0601
PCM
P0602
PCM
P0604
PCM
P0606
PCM
P0607
PCM
P0621
PCM
P0622
PCM
P0705
PCM
P0711
PCM
P0712
PCM
P0713
PCM
P0719
PCM
P0724
PCM
P0740
PCM
P0741
PCM
P0742
PCM
P0748
PCM
P0751
PCM
P0752
PCM
P0753
PCM
P0756
PCM
P0757
PCM
P0758
PCM
P0785
PCM
P1120
PCM
P1133
PCM
P1137
PCM
P1138
PCM
P1171
PCM
P1220
PCM
P1221
PCM
P1271
PCM
P1275
PCM
P1280
PCM
P1336
PCM
P1345
PCM
P1380
PCM
P1381
PCM
P1441
PCM
P1481
PCM
P1482
PCM
P1484
PCM
P1512
PCM
P1514
PCM
P1515
PCM
P1516
PCM
P1523
PCM
P1571
PCM
P1574
PCM
P1621
PCM
P1630
PCM
P1631
PCM
P1632
PCM
P1635
PCM
P1639
PCM
P1680
PCM
P1681
PCM
P1683
PCM
P1810
PCM
P1860
PCM
P1870
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