97 GP Coolant Leak
y0h@NN
09-08-2007, 07:15 PM
I have a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix SE w/ 3800 approx 189k miles. It is leaking coolant off the passenger side where there is an elbow coming out of the (?)intake manifold(?) and going into the (?)water pump(?). Not sure if this is correct but it is the best I can do to describe it. The coolant is coming out where this elbow meets the engine block. When I squeeze the upper radiator hose I can hear the system breathe at the elbow. Being that I am in a really tight spot at the moment I need to do whatever I can to keep this car running for a while. I don't have a repair manual for it so I have a few questions:
1) Would anyone recommend (for or against) using a product like Bar's Leaks Head Gasket Repair Block Seal to take care of this (even if it is a temporary fix)??
2) If I do use a block seal, I need to flush the system thoroughly. Can anyone verify for me which hose is the heater inlet hose? Both hoses coming off the fire wall look like they run into the pully stack, however the upper hose (off the fire wall) ends up lower (possibly the waterpump?) and the lower hose (with a red clamp on it off the firewall) ends up sitting higher (possibly the top of engine?).
3) If I try and tear into it, will I definitely have to replace the plenum? I have had one person tell me not to reuse it no matter what and would like confirmation.
If anyone can please help, I really, really would appreciate it!
1) Would anyone recommend (for or against) using a product like Bar's Leaks Head Gasket Repair Block Seal to take care of this (even if it is a temporary fix)??
2) If I do use a block seal, I need to flush the system thoroughly. Can anyone verify for me which hose is the heater inlet hose? Both hoses coming off the fire wall look like they run into the pully stack, however the upper hose (off the fire wall) ends up lower (possibly the waterpump?) and the lower hose (with a red clamp on it off the firewall) ends up sitting higher (possibly the top of engine?).
3) If I try and tear into it, will I definitely have to replace the plenum? I have had one person tell me not to reuse it no matter what and would like confirmation.
If anyone can please help, I really, really would appreciate it!
BNaylor
09-08-2007, 07:34 PM
No need to replace the UIM Plenum for this problem.
Plus the stop leak will not work on a bad/leaking 90 degree elbow. Too far deteriorated. The elbow connects between the lower intake manifold and tensioner/heat transfer assembly. You'll need to replace it and the two o-ring seals. To replace all you need to do is remove the alternator and the tensioner assembly where you see the heater hoses. You can leave the heater hoses connected.
The elbow is available at the dealer of you can get an aftermarket elbow like a Motormite brand for around $10.00.
Plus the stop leak will not work on a bad/leaking 90 degree elbow. Too far deteriorated. The elbow connects between the lower intake manifold and tensioner/heat transfer assembly. You'll need to replace it and the two o-ring seals. To replace all you need to do is remove the alternator and the tensioner assembly where you see the heater hoses. You can leave the heater hoses connected.
The elbow is available at the dealer of you can get an aftermarket elbow like a Motormite brand for around $10.00.
y0h@NN
09-08-2007, 07:46 PM
*sighs*
Wow, thanks BNaylor! I will give that a try and let ya know how it goes. I really need this to work. I hope it isn't too tricky to get the tensioner assembly off. Couple/few bolts I imagine once the serp belt is off.
Wow, thanks BNaylor! I will give that a try and let ya know how it goes. I really need this to work. I hope it isn't too tricky to get the tensioner assembly off. Couple/few bolts I imagine once the serp belt is off.
BNaylor
09-08-2007, 08:09 PM
We have a tech procedure to remove tensioner assembly at our Tips & Maintenance subforum. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Click here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=663401)
Click here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=663401)
y0h@NN
09-09-2007, 12:38 PM
Excellent. Last night I was able to get to step 5 on my own. The tensioner assembly seems to be loose, but wouldn't release fully. The only things seeming to keep the assembly in place are the plastic elbow connecting to the lower intake manifold and also an elbow coming off one of the heater hoses. See pics below.
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/7230/97gptensionerassembly00ic7.th.jpg (http://img441.imageshack.us/my.php?image=97gptensionerassembly00ic7.jpg) (elbow off heater hose) http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/5206/97gptensionerassembly00ga9.th.jpg (http://img441.imageshack.us/my.php?image=97gptensionerassembly00ga9.jpg) (plastic elbow thats leaking)
If I understand the tech procedure correctly, I should be able to get the assembly off at this point just by carefully prying the assembly away at these two points?
Thanks again for your help. I honestly don't know what I would do without it!
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/7230/97gptensionerassembly00ic7.th.jpg (http://img441.imageshack.us/my.php?image=97gptensionerassembly00ic7.jpg) (elbow off heater hose) http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/5206/97gptensionerassembly00ga9.th.jpg (http://img441.imageshack.us/my.php?image=97gptensionerassembly00ga9.jpg) (plastic elbow thats leaking)
If I understand the tech procedure correctly, I should be able to get the assembly off at this point just by carefully prying the assembly away at these two points?
Thanks again for your help. I honestly don't know what I would do without it!
BNaylor
09-09-2007, 01:32 PM
You're welcome. We're here to help the best we can. Looks like you are at the point where the tensioner should come off. Try rocking it up and down or using a tool like a tire iron or crowbar. The tensioner has a connection to the engine with also has an o-ring. That is what is holding it in or holding things up after all the tensioner bolts are removed. Let us know how it turns out.
y0h@NN
09-10-2007, 11:57 AM
BNaylor,
The part cost 10.25 (incl. tax), was only available from a dealer, was actually on the shelf (hooray!) and is currently in place on the car! Leak is fixed. Thank you, thank you, thank you! You were absolutely right on... 100%. This forum is worth my car's weight in gold!
It seems I am still having an issue with the car cooling properly. I am thinking a bad gasket (manifold or head probably?) since the car overheated badly a while back, but that is something for another thread!
Thanks again! Couldn't have done it without you!
The part cost 10.25 (incl. tax), was only available from a dealer, was actually on the shelf (hooray!) and is currently in place on the car! Leak is fixed. Thank you, thank you, thank you! You were absolutely right on... 100%. This forum is worth my car's weight in gold!
It seems I am still having an issue with the car cooling properly. I am thinking a bad gasket (manifold or head probably?) since the car overheated badly a while back, but that is something for another thread!
Thanks again! Couldn't have done it without you!
jmoleary
07-18-2011, 10:40 AM
Thanks to all that contributed to this thread. I was able to diagnose and fix my leaking '97 Grand Prix 3.8L V6 on Saturday with your help. I was ready to give up on it until I came across all of this good information. The replacement parts were just under $5.
Just a couple of comments for anyone possibly doing this in the future. On my vehicle there were only 2 bolts (not 3) holding the idler assembly on (after the alternator was removed). Also, I am confused about the second 90 degree elbow part. I only required the one with symmetric sides. What is the non-symmetric one for? Different models?
Jack
Just a couple of comments for anyone possibly doing this in the future. On my vehicle there were only 2 bolts (not 3) holding the idler assembly on (after the alternator was removed). Also, I am confused about the second 90 degree elbow part. I only required the one with symmetric sides. What is the non-symmetric one for? Different models?
Jack
jakegday
07-18-2011, 08:45 PM
Thanks to all that contributed to this thread. I was able to diagnose and fix my leaking '97 Grand Prix 3.8L V6 on Saturday with your help. I was ready to give up on it until I came across all of this good information. The replacement parts were just under $5.
Just a couple of comments for anyone possibly doing this in the future. On my vehicle there were only 2 bolts (not 3) holding the idler assembly on (after the alternator was removed). Also, I am confused about the second 90 degree elbow part. I only required the one with symmetric sides. What is the non-symmetric one for? Different models?
Jack
damn! $5!! i paid about $18 for the 2 of them from the dealer a couple months ago
Just a couple of comments for anyone possibly doing this in the future. On my vehicle there were only 2 bolts (not 3) holding the idler assembly on (after the alternator was removed). Also, I am confused about the second 90 degree elbow part. I only required the one with symmetric sides. What is the non-symmetric one for? Different models?
Jack
damn! $5!! i paid about $18 for the 2 of them from the dealer a couple months ago
Emp3rorArtist
09-29-2012, 05:04 PM
I'm at the point for the belt tensioner assembly is about to come off. I've removed the 3 bolts. How much force is needed to pry it off the engine so it doesn't break?
Tech II
09-30-2012, 01:54 PM
Not sure on the number of bolts, but did you remove the one from the back of the block? If yes, try rotating side to side as you pull...if it moves but doesn't come out, then a pry bar may be necessary....
On the tensioner assembly, you have an plastic elbow above, while down below you have an o-ring or another elbow(different size from above).....the older 3.8's had the o-ring....
Make sure you clean the openings where the elbows or o-ring mate......then put petroleum jelly on all the o-rings before assembly....
On the tensioner assembly, you have an plastic elbow above, while down below you have an o-ring or another elbow(different size from above).....the older 3.8's had the o-ring....
Make sure you clean the openings where the elbows or o-ring mate......then put petroleum jelly on all the o-rings before assembly....
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