How many Db's

Is it possible to get a rough estimate of how many Db's your car will be pushing?
If im going to have 2 15" Diamond Audio CM3's that are rated at db 91 and the RMS rating is 500 I think and 1000 or 1200 peak power(I cant find the wattage one these subs ANY WERE so if you know a web site or the numbers off the top of your head could you let me know)And im going to have a 2000 watt Hiphonics amp pushing them(and is that too much)? Plus the stock Subs that are already in the car which I think is 2 8".

The 91dB is generally a rating for SPL at 1 watt power with the measuring device 1 meter away from the cone or "91dB @ 1w/1m", a 10dB change in SPL will require 10 times the power, in your case you would get 101dB @ 10 Watts, 111dB @ 100 watts, and 121dB @ 1000 watts measured SPL at 1 meter from the cone,

Is it possible to get a rough estimate of how many Db's your car will be pushing?
If im going to have 2 15" Diamond Audio CM3's, And im going to have a 2000 watt Hiphonics amp pushing them( is that too much)? Plus the stock Subs that are already in the car which I think is 2 8".

It woudl be next to impossible, other than just lucky guts, to guess something like that. A box alone can add or subrtact 20 Db's, easily. But, givien your equipment, and assuming things are done on the better side, Im gonna go with 140 - 148.

Now, the amp, will not be too much for them. There are options of variable configuration that are availible to you. Because of this, and the combination of options availible through, HU, X-overs, etc. . .. It wont be a problem. You dont have to blow them out the water just becuase its availible to you, however, I would match everything as close as possible, less of course, you smell an upgrade in the near futre.

2 8" subs will add NOTHING to a system with 2 15's

2 8" subs will add NOTHING to a system with 2 15's

Oh yeah, I forgot to adress that, though I intended too. I do def agree. But if you insist on running them, what are you going to push them with ? Adding them to the sub line, will throw off your ohm load, or, just be WAY too much power for the 8" woofers. I mean, Im sure you could work it out somehow, but as paul said, it woudl not contribute. Maybe, you can use them as rear fill off the HU and just go with a Nice front stg. But that all depends on how your goin to run it in the 1st place, and even so, that seems to be in the far future anyways . But personally, I woudl stay away from the combo mix.

O.K. thanks ya im just not going to worry about the 8". And is there anything that you could compare 140-148 to because ive never realy heard anything and seen how many db it was.

O.K. thanks ya im just not going to worry about the 8". And is there anything that you could compare 140-148 to because ive never realy heard anything and seen how many db it was.

Uhhhh, you ever had your ear 100 ft away from a Jet engine at full blast ? Thats exactly what is sounds like, WAY TOO LOUD ! You have to remember, the dB scale, is logarithmic in nature. So, on the dB scale the smallest audible sound (near total silence) is 0 dB. A sound 10 times more powerful is 10 dB. A sound 100 times more powerful than near total silence is 20 dB. A sound 1,000 times more powerful than near total silence is 30 dB. So, the higher you get, the harder it is to increase the increments.

lawnmovwer 105 dB's
A rock concert or a jet engine - 120 dB (Pain begins at 120 dB's)
A gunshot or big firecracker - 140 dB (Anything close to or above this can cause instant pain and damage)

10 dB is 2 twice (or half) as loud, not 10 times. That was the point of the Bel. Each Bel is twice as loud as the previous one, but it turned out to be too big of a jump - so they use the deciBel instead (10 dB = 1 B).

Uhhhh, you ever had your ear 100 ft away from a Jet engine at full blast ? Thats exactly what is sounds like, WAY TOO LOUD ! You have to remember, the dB scale, is logarithmic in nature. So, on the dB scale the smallest audible sound (near total silence) is 0 dB. A sound 10 times more powerful is 10 dB. A sound 100 times more powerful than near total silence is 20 dB. A sound 1,000 times more powerful than near total silence is 30 dB. So, the higher you get, the harder it is to increase the increments.

lawnmovwer 105 dB's
A rock concert or a jet engine - 120 dB (Pain begins at 120 dB's)
A gunshot or big firecracker - 140 dB (Anything close to or above this can cause instant pain and damage)

my sq subs with 200 watts each can hit 138db.

(for those that remember the polks i had and the meter saying 138, well they told me the guy at that show that i tested that at didnt know what he was doing. As for my uncles DB meter at the time thats a whole nother story). Il leave it at this at 138db i had neck pain the next day, adn that was for 30sec. I couldnt hear anything.

10 dB is 2 twice (or half) as loud, not 10 times. That was the point of the Bel. Each Bel is twice as loud as the previous one, but it turned out to be too big of a jump - so they use the deciBel instead (10 dB = 1 B).

Yah, your right Paul, thanks for the correction.

O.K. im not going to be able to let my mom read this one or its gunna be a no go on car sudio till im in collage lol. So pretty much my system will be PLENTY loud right?

So how far away do you think you could hear me comming from?

well i cant measure in "blocks", but for an idea my little borther said he heard mine from up the street at the end of my road which a little under a mile, and my intentions for this setup are SQl, but with the enclosure and the right subs i could hit 150. So il save my SQl setup for the new car im looking at. The blazer i almost pefect for spl, and considering the work im getting ready to do with it it wont be much use of a DD so its now being converted to a show/spl vehicle.

Oh ok and do you have any pics of your system you could post because id like to see it.

ok, I gotta ask ....... how does a high school student afford a new Avalanche or Tundra ?

LoL Ok the tundra is my grandmas and she is going to give it to me, or my dad Avavlanch that im gunna pay him to get not sure how much yet but it prob wont be that much but my grandma is getting a new car anyway and she didnt want to sell it

A very lucky high school kid. My first car was a toyota corolla.

Here is a pic of what i used to have which was powered by a profile ca400m which is 200rms @4ohm. My new amp is so much better and provides some great power for a 4 channel.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=666144&highlight=floyd

As of now i have a 7cuft enclosure ported to 28hz. The port alone is 28x4 times the height and a little more than half the length of the enclosure its almost 2cuft alone. Now keep in mind that the atlas is a SQ sub and i was not expecting it to be extremely loud. But what threw me off was that i used to have 2-polk 12" subs with 75x2rms and the meter said 138 but the guy didnt know how to set it right or something, and we used my uncles and it turned out that actually had a bad sensor one was a TL and the other was an AC. The one at the recent show was an AC and was done by IASCA. I need to get back to my uncles cause he just got the sensor replaced and it should be good to go. Like i said with the right subs i can hit 150 with no problem. And the box that we built was designed to have the face removed and swapped with ease so i can make a single 18" baffle, 4-12"baffle or whatever i decide to try. Im thinking a single 18" RE SX with an autotek MM1000.1d. Ive been doing other work on the blazer so the progress on the system has been slow. GM rust sucks but it wasnt as bad as i thought it was going to be so im ahead of where i want to be. Il get some pics of the new one tomorrow.

So you will be able to switch out the subs when ever you want? Thats freaking awsome!And thnx for the pics.

So you will be able to switch out the subs when ever you want? Thats freaking awsome!And thnx for the pics.

Thats easy to do but to make an enclosure with enough airspace to support the different types of subs is hard to judge. There was a guy on here that made an interchangable port.

Like i said thats my old setup, my new one is ALOT bigger.

Ya man thats gunna be a pretty sick setup.:]

do you think a tundra could handle 2000 watts with out adding anything to power the amp

Well lets see the average conversion for amps/watts is roughly 50watts/1amp. I think i know paul will know. So you figure 2000watts/50=40amps. Most factory alternators that being a truck are around 100-120amps. But i could be wrong.

i thought it was volts divided by watts or something like that. like 400 watts divided by 12.5 volt is 32 amps

I know we have done this bevore so i did a search on google.

The conversion of Watts to Amps is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts

For example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp
Converting Amps to Watts

So basically 2000 watts/14.4v=138.88888888

Or 2000/12=166.66666666

So basically the less voltage the higher the amperage. And your basic alternator produces 14.4v. So NO the factory truck electrical system will probaly not support it.

The average nominal voltage for 12 volt powered electronics is 13.8 volts, the charging voltage may go higher in cold climates but should never go above 14.5 volts.

that's the right formula .... but you are plugging in watts AC output and voltage DC input, you need some way to compare apples to apples. Remember that amps are not 100% efficient.

Crap, well what do I need to add so that the truck will be able to hadle the power?

The average nominal voltage for 12 volt powered electronics is 13.8 volts, the charging voltage may go higher in cold climates but should never go above 14.5 volts.

I was using what most manufacturers rate there amps at.

And the website i got the conversion from said it works with anything from a 12v car electrical system to a household 110v. But i hate equations unless they deal with car audio or an engine, but i have never really known how to convert watts into amps. But we all need to learn somehow.

What is a capacitor that will work for me that is pretty cheap?

Crap, well what do I need to add so that the truck will be able to hadle the power?

I always recommend to just hook everything up and let it rip ... if your lights blink badly, you wll need a bigger alt.



What is a capacitor that will work for me that is pretty cheap?

none, they will not do what you need them for

So pretty much im just going to have to live with it unless i get another battery or something and a battery wont help the blinking.

It woudl be next to impossible, other than just lucky guts, to guess something like that. A box alone can add or subrtact 20 Db's, easily. But, givien your equipment, and assuming things are done on the better side, Im gonna go with 140 - 148.

Now, the amp, will not be too much for them. There are options of variable configuration that are availible to you. Because of this, and the combination of options availible through, HU, X-overs, etc. . .. It wont be a problem. You dont have to blow them out the water just becuase its availible to you, however, I would match everything as close as possible, less of course, you smell an upgrade in the near futre.:smokin: :smokin: 135-142

somebody tell me i have 4-10's and 4000wts in a ford ranger ext cab how many Dbs ???

tell me ive got 4-10s and 4000wts what Dbs should it hit??

anybody

not enough info to even make an educated guess

WTH, create a new thread dont hijack one for a question with no information to even get an idea.

if 138db on an AC gives you neck pain you should stop now.

Considering i have no sound deadening at this time, im still running an 8 guage wire, and my truck leaks air like a mofo i think with everything once its fixxed could hit 143 and up.

My body hurts everynight my job is labor intensive (sometimes), other times we dont do anything but my body is usually in pain anyways.