What kind of Amp do I need?

Just bought two Kenwood 10's in a real good box for $250. More then what I wanted to spend, but what the hell. They are 300 watt subs. Thats 300 a sub X 2.

My question is what kind of amp do I need? A mono, 2 channel, multichannel? What the hell is the difference and what do I need? My other speakers are small enough to be powered by the Deck. Please Help me.

What Kenwood subs?

what kind of box is it?

it all has to do with the way the speakers are wired into the amp.

a mono (1 channel) is when the subs are wired so they both get the same signal and work as one speaker... very powerful but loss of stereo sound quality (doesn't really make too much of a difference though)

each channel is deticated to a single speaker (1 positive and 1 negitive connection) if you have 2 speakers, you will never need more then 2 channels.

if the box has two places to hook up speaker wire you will need a 2 channel amp. if it only has one, get a mono amp.

make sure the ohm's match up (spec's on the speaker packaging)
between the speakers and the amp (ohms are resistance... if too many ohms on speakers then you dont get enough power to speakers... if too little... too much power goes through and you fry the amp)

kenwoods should be 4 ohm.

anyway the amp should be about 450 or 500watts.... JL, MTX, Pheonix Gold etc are good brands.

hope that answers your questions

KSC-BP210
10" Dual Bandpass Subwoofer

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/content/product/image/large/ksc-bp210.jpg




Adding mega-bass couldn't be easier than installing the 300-watt per woofer, KSC-BP210 10" Enclosed Dual Bandpass Subwoofer system. This system uses two 10" woofers each with a red pearl-mica injection molded polypropylene cone and Concave Dust Cap mounted in a split dual-ported single rugged enclosure. The result is a very powerful dual bandpass response from 26 Hz to 150 Hz.


Recommended Price $280.00 - $350.00







GENERAL FEATURES
- 2 Large Ports per Enclosure
- Clear Plexiglas View Window
- Concave Dust Cap
- Dual Bandpass Enclosure
- Frequency Response: 26Hz - 150Hz
- Impedance: 4 ohms (each Woofer)
- In-Vehicle Sensitivity: 108dB
- Pearl Mica Injection-Molded Polypropylene Cone
- Power Handling: 300 Watts each Woofer
- Two Built-In 10" Woofers

SPEAKER FEATURES
- Woofer: 10" Pearl Mica Injection-Molded Polypropylene Cone (2)






AUDIO SPECIFICATIONS
- Frequency Response: 26Hz - 150Hz

SPEAKER SPECIFICATIONS
- Diameter: 10" (2)
- Impedance: 4 ohms (each)
- In-Vehicle Sensitivity (1w/1m): 108dB
- Magnet Weight: 20 oz (each)
- Power Handling: 300 Watts (each)
- Sensitivity (1w/1m): 88dB

I was thinking 600 at least. But do you think a 500 will do? How about brigding a 400watt amp to make it a 800 or maybe a 300 to 600? Should I brigde it to save money? I know people who can do it, but is it safe and will my amp last?

Thanks!!
:D

its safe but your better off getting a 500 or 600 watt amp rather then bridging them. sounds better and limiting yourself to that amount of power will stop you from potentially blowing your subs

Unfortunately, underpowering a speaker often causes more problems than overpowering. People seem to get an attitude that the speakers can handle anything the little amp can put out.

very true, i did imply that in my last post which was unintentional. its just less likely than over powering. just remember that if you tune it right you'll be fine. meet and/or surpass the RMS of the speakers and it'll sound good. just be carefull. rase the bass slowly until you get it right.

you'll know when.

Originally posted by PaulD
Unfortunately, underpowering a speaker often causes more problems than overpowering. People seem to get an attitude that the speakers can handle anything the little amp can put out.

true..its sad that people turn up the gain to try to make up the power they need. :(

Richard Clark said that an amp can produce up to twice the amount of power it is rated at. That is what clipping is, according to him. I say match the power levels closely, cause you can blow speakers with too much power also. (My case in point: I had 2 MTX 6000 10's and would burn up the coils; they were being powered by a 500D)

a bandpass box is a different animal, it has 2 "problems" when it comes blowing speakers. The first is that the speaker is totally enclosed, so you can't hear when the sub is stressing out. The second is that because ALL of the sound comes thru a very finely tuned port, it really doesn't take that much movement of the cone to produce a lot of sound when the music is in the passband. I would be careful about overpowering a bandpass box.

Originally posted by PaulD
a bandpass box is a different animal, it has 2 "problems" when it comes blowing speakers. The first is that the speaker is totally enclosed, so you can't hear when the sub is stressing out. The second is that because ALL of the sound comes thru a very finely tuned port, it really doesn't take that much movement of the cone to produce a lot of sound when the music is in the passband. I would be careful about overpowering a bandpass box.

yes that is true too. which is why i don't are too much for bandpass boxes

when properly designed and used, they can be awesome. The trick is to make the passband a narrow set of frequencies - say 25 or 30Hz to like 50 or 55Hz. The second factor is the use of a dedicated 6 1/2" or 8" midbass to take up the slack. It will run like 50-150 Hz so the midrange won't get killed.