02 Alero starting problems too.

I also have a 2002 Alero that won't start. Fuel pressure guage shows 50 lbs when you turn the switch on and you do hear the pump hum for a couple of seconds. Replaced the coil pack in the top of the engine (2.2 four cylinder) and the ignition module with no change.

My Snap-on scanner is not giving any codes either by make or in the global OBD11 mode. Scanner does show cranks sensor to be working, while the rpm guage does not move on the dash. I don't get any cam sensor readings, but don't see a cam sensor on this thing.

Shut it off at the post office one day, got back in and cranks but no start.

The key is a little hard to turn on and I am leaning towards the lock cylindr being bad.

I am getting electrical power to the ignition module. The red security light is on, but not flashing. Have tried the relearn procedure with no change. Any other ideas before I give up?

With the security light on it still indicates a problem with the Passlock VATS. Most likely a loss of the passive transponder signal to the BCM module. The key lock cylinder would be a good starting point.

Replaced ignition lock and sensor with new one, security light still burns steady, and no start. I guess on Tuesday when the dealer is open I'll see if I can't get it towed over to them. Thanks for the suggestions though.

Little update. Visited with the dealer today. Told him what all had been done, and that the security light would go off during the first cycle of ten minutes, stay off during the second cycle of ten minutes, but would come back on and stay during the third cycle.

He told me to keep doing the cycles of ten minutes until the security light stays off. (My closest dealer is 60 miles away)

So, here I go again.:banghead:

Wellll, it finally runs. It took lots of ten minute cycles, but she fires up now. No security light now, so we will see how long it runs. Thanks for the inputs.

Ask your dealer to fax you a copy of UI Bulletin #26. It describes a way to bypass the passlock system entirely. It is written for trucks, but the same procedure works for the Alero.

Thanks for the tip, but so far no more problems. Starts everytime, and no red security light. The old key tumbler was hard to work and very dirty. Changed it out and once the BCM learned the new tumbler, all went well.

Thanks again.

Ok..I'm new to this groups. A little background..Porfessional Master Technician, 02 Aler 2.2 with a crank no start, unit has spark, no security light while cranking, power at the injectors and no inj pulse via the scanner, ckp reading as it should...I am assuming at this point the rke or the ignition switch is bad(sister in law) is bring the remote in the am.... any thoughts would be appreciated! AllData is pointing towards a vats issue???? i'm not convinced!

My security light would go off while cranking also, fuel pump would run, but would not spark at the plugs.

If that light is on or flashing when the switch is on, sounds like a security problem much like mine.

I had to install a new key tumbler assy to correct my problem.

Ask your dealer to fax you a copy of UI Bulletin #26. It describes a way to bypass the passlock system entirely. It is written for trucks, but the same procedure works for the Alero.

I had to have this done for my car.
My car was a wonderful car when I first got it back in 2005. It was my first official car and it was only 2 years old I loved it the minute I sat in it. I kinda let the features convince me that it was a great car. My problems started within 2 months of buying the car.
First off
My cigarette lighter went out.
My car was heating up until I changed the fan relay.
My car wouldn't start from time to time.
My fuel pump would not switch on.
My trunk started to get this nasty rust stuff on the interior of the trunk which I later found out that there was a leak when it rained so the metal under the interior started rusting.
In 2006
Then I would be driving down the highway or a freeway and my car would suddenly turn off and I would lose my power steering and almost have to break my arms trying to turn the damn thing on to the side of the road.
Then my car wouldn't start at all and when it did it would leave me stranded.
In August 2007
I finally had a diagnostic done and I was lucky to find a private shop that would find the problem for $130. He figured the problem was the electrical ignition switch and that would have to be replaced for another $600.
I couldn't come up with the money that soon so I parked my car in our R.V. parking and let it sit for 2 weeks.
My brother knew how to fix it, but the piece of shit battery went dead along with the trunk relay.
I went to have the battery recharged and they told me it was bad so I had to spend $60 more to have it replaced.
Oh and during those two weeks my front windshield cracked because of the heat. Then my passenger side window fell off track. I took off the door panel and realized it wasn't that the window fell of track. The brackets (or whatever it's called) broke and therefore my window slammed down.
The ignition switch ended up being why my car would refuse to start. Kragen Auto parts ordered and delivered the part in one day. Thank god the switch was on $116 and was replaced free thanks to my brother.
Don't buy this car and if you do don't spend any more than $1000 for it. Trust me you'll be spending a lot more to have it fixed.:disappoin

It is definately the ignition switch read below

My car was a wonderful car when I first got it back in 2005. It was my first official car and it was only 2 years old I loved it the minute I sat in it. I kinda let the features convince me that it was a great car. My problems started within 2 months of buying the car.
First off
My cigarette lighter went out.
My car was heating up until I changed the fan relay.
My car wouldn't start from time to time.
My fuel pump would not switch on.
My trunk started to get this nasty rust stuff on the interior of the trunk which I later found out that there was a leak when it rained so the metal under the interior started rusting.
In 2006
Then I would be driving down the highway or a freeway and my car would suddenly turn off and I would lose my power steering and almost have to break my arms trying to turn the damn thing on to the side of the road.
Then my car wouldn't start at all and when it did it would leave me stranded.
In August 2007
I finally had a diagnostic done and I was lucky to find a private shop that would find the problem for $130. He figured the problem was the electrical ignition switch and that would have to be replaced for another $600.
I couldn't come up with the money that soon so I parked my car in our R.V. parking and let it sit for 2 weeks.
My brother knew how to fix it, but the piece of shit battery went dead along with the trunk relay.
I went to have the battery recharged and they told me it was bad so I had to spend $60 more to have it replaced.
Oh and during those two weeks my front windshield cracked because of the heat. Then my passenger side window fell off track. I took off the door panel and realized it wasn't that the window fell of track. The brackets (or whatever it's called) broke and therefore my window slammed down.
The ignition switch ended up being why my car would refuse to start. Kragen Auto parts ordered and delivered the part in one day. Thank god the switch was on $116 and was replaced free thanks to my brother.
Don't buy this car and if you do don't spend any more than $1000 for it. Trust me you'll be spending a lot more to have it fixed.