97 blazer LT 4x4 will not start

I hate to post something lame like "my truck won't start", but I am not sure where to go next with this one:

1997 blazer LT 4.3L 4x4 stalled going down the road.
No codes.
Cranks, but will not turn over.
fuel pressure is 56 psi at the supply rail
battery voltage is 12.4 VDC
I did a full tune up earlier this summer and the truck has run fine all summer.

I performed the checks on the ignition coil that Chiltons recommends - had battery voltage at the primary side (about 11.something volts), 5Kohm primary to secondary, and no shorts in the coil.

Opened up distributer cap. Found the rotor button damaged - one of the mounting screws was jammed up in the cap posts and pieces of plastic were all over. I retrieved up all the plastic parts, making sure I got them all, and replaced the cap and rotor with new ones.

Still cranks but no start.

I was able to rotate the rotor 360 degrees. Should I have been able to turn the rotor like this?

Oil level OK. Can't really get a good read on oil pressure. All I can really tell is that the oil pressure goes up to around 40 as the engine cranks. Tough to tell for sure, because the engine does not crank for very long (it cranks for a few seconds)

Fuel pump primes for two seconds when the key is turned to ON. There is gas in the tank.

I cleaned up the battery terminals and tried to jump start the blazer with my VW, but the blazer still does not start.

What should I check next? Timing? Drop the oil and look for metal? Recharge the battery and try that again? Check the plug wires? They are bosch wires, not AC Delco.

Thanks in advance
Jeff

Opened up distributer cap. Found the rotor button damaged - one of the mounting screws was jammed up in the cap posts and pieces of plastic were all over. I retrieved up all the plastic parts, making sure I got them all, and replaced the cap and rotor with new ones.



I was able to rotate the rotor 360 degrees. Should I have been able to turn the rotor like this?

Oil level OK. Can't really get a good read on oil pressure. All I can really tell is that the oil pressure goes up to around 40 as the engine cranks. Tough to tell for sure, because the engine does not crank for very long (it cranks for a few seconds)


Jeff

You shouldn't be able to rotate the rotor. Sounds to me like you may have spun a gear on the distributor (at the least). Could get nasty, as the distributor is driven off a gear on the cam.

When you get the battery charged (or jumped for that matter) leave the cap off and see if the rotor is spinning.

Sounds like pulling the distributor out to look at it is what's needed.

Well I drained the oil and it was not full of bronze filings. So I will take that as a good sign for now.

Jeff

After the distributor issue is taken care of, fuel pressure needs attention. Must be a MINIMUM of 60psi. If you need the procedure for checking it, just ask.

As said pull and check the dist and gear.

Gears can be replaced if just the gear bad.

When installing this procedure.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=51302

After dist is installed and you get it running you will need to get i on a good engine capable scanner and set the camshaft retard as close to 0 degrees - or + as you can.
If over 2-3 degrees off it will need to be reset.

Also a note if it is off around 10-15 degrees and it can not be adjusted back to around 0 degrees the dist gear is 190 degrees or a half a turn off.
Remove dist and turn the gear a 1/2 turn to bring it back in.

MT

I pulled the distributor and the gear was OK, but the electronic doohickey (Hall effect transducer) on top was not fastened to the dizzy shaft well. I wish I could have figured out how to fix that. I ended up getting a rebuilt dizzy at Autozone (for $91 - ouch) and it worked fine. Piece of junk came with stripped cap hold down bolt holes. I think the core I gave them was in better shape than that one they gave me! I will have to decide if I want to take it back or just see if the cap stays on OK.

Thanks to all who helped me out.

Jeff

I pulled the distributor and the gear was OK, but the electronic doohickey (Hall effect transducer) on top was not fastened to the dizzy shaft well. I wish I could have figured out how to fix that. I ended up getting a rebuilt dizzy at Autozone (for $91 - ouch) and it worked fine. Piece of junk came with stripped cap hold down bolt holes. I think the core I gave them was in better shape than that one they gave me! I will have to decide if I want to take it back or just see if the cap stays on OK.

Thanks to all who helped me out.

Jeff

You are welcome and thanks for posting back how it went.
I would take it back.
If the cap can not be tighten down it will give you more problems.
Good Luck
MT