Water pump help plz

So i am replacing the water pump on my 95 aurora and i forgot to check the location of the notch in the pump. :banghead: but i believe the notch just lines up the weep hole so it should be on the bottom but im not for sure and dont wanna take it out again please help

Well i have fixed the problem it seems to only go in one way and it works great now...temp doesnt get over 220 now

My friends Aurora is overheating due to a defective (Leaking) water pump. I I am contemplating on just changing it myself to save her some money. I do have automotive experience (AUT degree), but there are always suprises when doing a job you have never done before. Generally I try to stay away from Cadillac, BMW, Mercedes, Jag, etc. . . . I am under the impression this car is in the lower line of this category.

In anycase, Out of curiosity, is this a pretty straight up job, or will it be worth it just to pay some one to do it ? I have already taken a peek under the hood. Its seems like an easy enough job. I just wanted confirmation as to how complicated this job might be. Or, if anyone has any info or pointers that might help me out. I would appreciate this ALOT.

Thanks

not really a hard job at all,but you do need a special tool to remove the pump from the block. i dont know if it can be rented or not. search the forum and/or net to get info or a write up on replacement of the pump.

I think you can get the tool pretty cheaply on Ebay. I have heard horror stories though of people not being to get it out. I guess it screws in or something and some people just spending hours trying to get it to move.

You can buy one here:http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/apt-7880.html

Thanks for the info. Ummmm, I might actually take pictures of this process, incase anyone else has a problem with thier water pump. I guess for now, I will see if I can rent one of these from the local autoparts store, if not, I will go ahead and buy it.

OK, well so far, everything has been peachy, that is UNTIL it came time to actually R & R the water pump. The tool seems pretty straight forward, I have used many before (not this paticular one, but you wouldnt thing that woudl even matter). It's the same concept as a socket.

The problem I'm having is that I can NOT budge the pump (plate) that the special tool is supposed to rotate. I'm under the impression you just rotate it clockwise about 1/8 inch (about 25 degrees), then the pump shoudl just come right out. I have already taken off the tensioner, there does not seem to be anything else holding it on.

Maybe Im missing something? There is a slight amount of rust on the impellers, nothing severe. Maybe it's rusted a bit and will not go past that breaking point, because it does NOT want to budge a bit. ANYONE have anyy suggestions or pointers ? I'm almost there ! I woudl hate to have it all broke down to just keep the same pump. I guess it woudlnt matter too much though, the pump does work and I KNOW that. It only gets hot because the gasket is leaking, there was some trash on the gasket. So, as long as it has water in it, it does circulate water and freely spins, just like the new one does. Its not warped, and makes no noise.

I think you can get the tool pretty cheaply on Ebay. I have heard horror stories though of people not being to get it out. I guess it screws in or something and some people just spending hours trying to get it to move.

You can rent one at your local Auto Zone. That's where I got mine from. It requires a 30$ deposit, but you get it back upon return.

if you have any blaster pb,soak it down around the area that needs to turn and let it soak in. then try again! it should break free. also try extending out the handle of tool for better leverage

LoL, I never heard of blaster pb, but I'm sure it would have come in handy. I just googled it. Read some great reviews on it. I did use something like WD-40 and probably not even as good. But I pried on it pretty freakin hard. But I will keep that in mind for future reference. It might come in handy next time I run into that problem, lol, which could be in the next 1/2 hr or less.

Since I just kept the old pump on, I might have to take it back off if I find its not up to par. I used the old one under the notion it works (it does), and that the leak was coming from the gasket (assumption based of technical anaysis and troubleshooting). At the moment, Im just waiting for the Sealent to dry a little bit. So, if I put water back in and it still leaks, then I will end up having to rip it all back apart and try to get the original pump off again. Or even worse, paying someone else to do it. . .. .. What an upset that would be :disappoin . But for now, I have my fingers crossed, I'm pretty sure it will be alright, but you know how sometimes, if it can go wrong. . . it will. :banghead: I will let you know.

Can you get that stuff at Wal-mart, or you need to buy from an industrial place ?

some refer to it as pb blaster also. the best stuff ive ever seen,i use it all the time on suspension or rusty bolts or whatever. wwwwaaayyyyy better than wd-40. you can get it from any auto parts store,i think i even seen it at walmart. good luck

Oh WOW ! It's still leaking. What are the odds? However, I can't be to sure if its the same leak or a different one. In anycase, the leak seems to be coming from a diff place, unlike the original leak- the bottom right side of the 4 bolts that hold the cover plate to the block. I know I lagitametly placed the gasket on there. The current leak seems to be coming from the back of pump like where the pulley is at, on the back side (that is assuming you are standing in front of the drivers side tire, 12:00 being the passengers side tire).

Hmmmmm, this may sound silly, but I was provided with an O-ring (not a gasket, I had to purchase those seperately, 2-and only used 1). Conventionally, the o-ring provided seems to fit nowhere on the inside of the pump, the pump itself, or the water pump plate taken off ? And the directions specify that not all pumps will use the O-ring, so I assumed I didint need it because it seemingly had no area of applicable function. Perhaps I spaced something?

Anything . .. . ? I guess I will have a further look tommorrow. I have a drop-light, but I have lots of school work to be done (blech). But, if any one has any starry-eyed suggestions, I can do it tonight. I need this car fixed . . . .

I would be really surprised if your original leak was due to a failed gasket around the pump. Water pump leaks are almost always due to the wate rpump seal breaking down where the bearing is. And usually its because the bearing is on its way out. You most likely need a new pump.

I would be really surprised if your original leak was due to a failed gasket around the pump. Water pump leaks are almost always due to the wate rpump seal breaking down where the bearing is. And usually its because the bearing is on its way out. You most likely need a new pump.

:runaround:

I think you are right ! That seems precisely where the leak is coming from, that area where the bearing is around the spindle. I'm goin to try to get a bottle or 2 of this magic stuff and soak it down daily and wrench on it. Does anyone know how much force I can exert before I break it off the block and screw something up ?

nooo! its not magic just some good stuff! spray the mating surface and let sit a few minutes and it should break free. if not soak again and tap with a mallet or hammer carefully. also a trick for holding gaskets to the mounting area is to spray with light coat of spray adhesive and stick gaskets to it. works on alot a places to keep them still while assembling items.

Hmmm, well I guess I have only one question. Does this can spray when it is upsided down ? I will find out when I buy some today but I only ask because when I used the cheap pentrating lube, it didnt. And as you might know, there is not a whole lot of room to manuever. I couldnt see the pump just comes off. It seemed to be a part of the block itself, or attached to a peice of the block that is WAY too much hassel to remove. And by anychance do you know, assuming the water pump is a clock, what time will there be mating surfaces at ? I only ask because I cant really see down there very well (bad angle and not enough room), some sort of idea of how many mating surfaces actually contact each other, and where they might be located woudl help alot.

if u think you will be using it often, then you can get the gallon and it comes with a spray bottle. as for the aerosol it does not spray well upside down. some have the straw on them to shoot in precise spots. as for the mating surfaces i really dont remember. u have to make sure your trying to turn it the right way also. get the new one out and that should give you an idea of the way to turn amd or mount it.

I used an 18 inch breaker bar on mine with a hefty sized piece of pipe to increase the leverage beyond that and I am certain my arms would've given out long before any permanent damage occured to the engine but, to no avail.

A good mechanic and friend of mine with nerves of steel used a torch to cut away pieces of the water pump until it finally broke free. Good luck

SWEET, Thanks a million Back2life, and everyone else that suggested anything! That PB Blaster is some BAD A** Stuff. It did take a day and a whole bottle. I saturated it on every 1/2 hr and kept prying on it. I used a prybar and a BFH.

I was really about to give up for the day and buy another can for tommorrow and continue till it finally gave. I decided to try one more time. It was then I thought I broke the tabs to the pump or stripped out tool, or just broke something. To my suprise, I looked down and it was out ! I was Sooooo happy. Thanks another mill. I was actually begining to just hand it back to her and tell her I can't help her. And form the other posts I read, this issue can cost alot of money. And that, she dont have . And of course, It was after I got the pump off, that I found out where that 4 inch diam O-ring goes (the one that comes with the pump). It goes behind he pump.

The car does not leak anymore (YAY). I did not refil it back with coolant yet. I wanted to make sure it did not leak anymore. And it does NOT. I do need to do a flush n fill though, there seemed to be alot of gunk in there. White foamy stuff and some minor corrosion. I will do that later this weekend. She needs her car and is very thankful to all your suggestions as well.

Ummm, I got a handful of pictures taken. I havnt really looked at them yet (on the pc) so I dont know how they turned out. Assuming all the pics came out decent, maybe someone else is interested in seeing them on post with pics, instructing them the process?

I used an 18 inch breaker bar on mine with a hefty sized piece of pipe to increase the leverage beyond that and I am certain my arms would've given out long before any permanent damage occured to the engine but, to no avail.

A good mechanic and friend of mine with nerves of steel used a torch to cut away pieces of the water pump until it finally broke free. Good luck

:screwy: Wow thats funny.

I think the breaker bar with a pipe may have prevented me almost breaking my arm tryin to turn that suker. lol, I'm really suprised I didint think of that . . . :banghead: Well, I guess the important thing is that I got it off. Ill keep that in mind for next time.

good job nicks! anyway make sure to bleed out the cooling system after your done. also if you want you can refill with one of the prestone brand lifetime coolants if you want instead of that old dexcool bull@#$%. every car i get with it in it i take it out.

I have a 1997 olds Aurora an the engine runs hot only in the afternoon when the outside temperature is 84 to 96 degrees and above. In the mornings when the temperature is 64 to 78 degrees and below the engine runs normal temperature from 160 to 200 degrees. I drive105 Miles to work one way and the temperature stays normal and is with my AC on all the way. But when I leave work in the afternoon with the outside temperature 84 degrees and above I get about 25 miles down the hwy and my enine runs hot and the water boils out the water reservoir bottle. I replace the radiator, water reservoir bottle cap, water pump,upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat and water pump pulley belt. I don't know what else to do. It only get hot when the outside temperature is 84 degrees and above. Can anyone help me.

check your cooling fans for operation,if not working then thats the culprit. they should also be running when the ac is on.

My 1997 Olds Aurora is overheating. I have changed everthing in the cooling system at least I think so unless their is something that i am missing and the engine is still running hot when the outside temperature is 90 degrees and higher. I only be 26 miles into my destination and the temprature starts rising this only happens in the afternoon. In the mornings when the temperature is 65 to 80 degrees the engine runs normal and I drives 105 miles one way to work. In the afternoon on the awy back home wit the temperature 90 degrees and above 25 miles into my destination the engine temperature the engine overheats. Can you help me? Thanks

Have you tried turning the tool counter-clockwise!!! it should come out with ease.

Ok guys we are jumping back and forth with different issues/posters here. This is 3 months old and we need to start a new thread for new issues, thanks.