Jumping new ground wire for fuel pump? '94 Stalled, won't restart...
RockcrawlingTJ
08-25-2007, 02:27 PM
I have a 1994 Bonneville, SSE.
So I have been on the site reading thread after thread about the Bonneville and stalling/starting issues. I am sorry if this seems like 'another stalling thread', but I'm at a loss. I just picked up this Bonneville last week and was aware it'd had this issue, but the car ALWAYS started for the previous owner when it stalled, and it only stalled 1 - 2 times per week. He was just tired of trying to trace the problem. It would figure the problem would escalate the first time I drove it.
He replaced the following:
MAF, Crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft position sensor & magnet, all done professionally and double checked.
I checked the drive side bus connection, it looks clean as a whistle. I will take it apart when I actually get the car home to inspect it more closely though. I moved the wires and the car started and died twice, but no more. The only problem I am having at the moment is the fuel delivery - power windows, locks, etc still work fine at the moment. Although, the previous owner did say the window would act up every so often if he shut the door too hard.
Can I just jumper in a new ground wire for the fuel pump instead of trying to trace where the problem is?
Your thoughts on where I should start messing with this?
Thanks.
Justin
So I have been on the site reading thread after thread about the Bonneville and stalling/starting issues. I am sorry if this seems like 'another stalling thread', but I'm at a loss. I just picked up this Bonneville last week and was aware it'd had this issue, but the car ALWAYS started for the previous owner when it stalled, and it only stalled 1 - 2 times per week. He was just tired of trying to trace the problem. It would figure the problem would escalate the first time I drove it.
He replaced the following:
MAF, Crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft position sensor & magnet, all done professionally and double checked.
I checked the drive side bus connection, it looks clean as a whistle. I will take it apart when I actually get the car home to inspect it more closely though. I moved the wires and the car started and died twice, but no more. The only problem I am having at the moment is the fuel delivery - power windows, locks, etc still work fine at the moment. Although, the previous owner did say the window would act up every so often if he shut the door too hard.
Can I just jumper in a new ground wire for the fuel pump instead of trying to trace where the problem is?
Your thoughts on where I should start messing with this?
Thanks.
Justin
Mickey#1
08-25-2007, 03:15 PM
I believe there is a light bus & the ground bus on the driver's side. The ground bus has black & black/white stripe wires going to it. Is that the one you checked?
Steven Webb
08-25-2007, 04:46 PM
I feel your pain. I have replaced the Cam & Crank Position Sensors, Timing Chain, Gears & Inturrupter Magnet on the Cam Sprocket, Fuel Pump, Strainer & Filter, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Spark Plugs & Wires, Throtle Position Sensor, a handful of vacuum connections along the fuel path. I too looked at both the ground busses in the cabin, the driver and passenger sides. I've cleaned the grounds I could located under the hood. An OBD scanner returned only the code, "Throtle Position Sensor - Low Voltage". I don't know if that indicates low voltage TO or FROM the sensor. Since the TPS on this car is non-adjustable for voltage I'm guessing its a low voltage TO the sensor, thus tracing down grounds. Keep me informed on your progress and good luck.
RockcrawlingTJ
08-25-2007, 05:16 PM
I looked at this one -
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/kb.php?mode=article&k=102
I have not looked at the passenger side yet.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/kb.php?mode=article&k=102
I have not looked at the passenger side yet.
Mickey#1
08-25-2007, 05:34 PM
That article shows two connectors, one with white wires & one with black. I wanted to make sure you checked the correct bus (black wires) & pulled the metal bar out to check for corrosion.
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