PFE vs DPFE

Got my code reader and found the bad part or so it says,
Went and got the delta pressure feedback electronic sensor from autozone.

Upon taking it off it looks like a PFE is on my car but dont see it listed as a part anywhere. It has one electric connection and a place for one hose.

Could someone field this one as im leaving for tenn in a couple hours

Thanks and Good Luck

94 towncar 4.6

This one will have to wait. Ran out of time and have the wrong part unless

Ford changed the part and added a T to the intake side of the vacuum. I

dont know but if someone does know something. Please fill me in.

Thanks and Good Luck

Code readers don't find bad parts. But anyways from what I have seen is that the 94 town car comes with one or the other. The PFE has a single hose and the DPFE has two hoses.


Got my code reader and found the bad part or so it says,
Went and got the delta pressure feedback electronic sensor from autozone.

Upon taking it off it looks like a PFE is on my car but dont see it listed as a part anywhere. It has one electric connection and a place for one hose.

Could someone field this one as im leaving for tenn in a couple hours

Thanks and Good Luck

True it doesnt.But it sure gives you a place to look or try to look.
Even after it tells ya you still have to find it or try to find it.

Worked right up to the time I left and couldnt replace the part so
instead of mounting the part back where it was I just connected it and let it hang there with the EGR vaccuum switch necause i planned on fixing it here in Tenn.

Funny thing happened on the way here. On the way here the engine light came on as expected but went off after a few minutes then it didnt come on at all and I thought it was burned out. (check engine light) It wasnt and when I ran a self test 111 code came up

I read in some other posts that some Ford vehicles go through them pretty regular. Some have been relocated to the fender or fire wall wall also.

Thought it was to make it easier to get too the next time.

I believe it is heat from the manifold that causes the problem

Perhaps going from hot to cold in winter causes condensation to form and shorts them out I dont know but one thing for certain is its not going back where it was if it gets replaced at all. Seems to be working . Had some nice long accelerarions up these mountains and no light.

If it ends up wotking out without replacing thats a 100 dollar swing. The
70 I dont have to pay for the wrong one and the 30 or so not paid to replace
the right one

From what i have seen the single house units rarely fail and 90% of the time when a code pops up for PFE sensor its due to the EGR passages being plugged, and even after a cleaning of the EGR passages the check engine light might flicker for a week or so before it stops. Now the two hose DPFE sensors are problematic due to their aluminum case that corrodes on the inside. The update DPFE are made out of plastic.


True it doesnt.But it sure gives you a place to look or try to look.
Even after it tells ya you still have to find it or try to find it.

Worked right up to the time I left and couldnt replace the part so
instead of mounting the part back where it was I just connected it and let it hang there with the EGR vaccuum switch necause i planned on fixing it here in Tenn.

Funny thing happened on the way here. On the way here the engine light came on as expected but went off after a few minutes then it didnt come on at all and I thought it was burned out. (check engine light) It wasnt and when I ran a self test 111 code came up

I read in some other posts that some Ford vehicles go through them pretty regular. Some have been relocated to the fender or fire wall wall also.

Thought it was to make it easier to get too the next time.

I believe it is heat from the manifold that causes the problem

Perhaps going from hot to cold in winter causes condensation to form and shorts them out I dont know but one thing for certain is its not going back where it was if it gets replaced at all. Seems to be working . Had some nice long accelerarions up these mountains and no light.

If it ends up wotking out without replacing thats a 100 dollar swing. The
70 I dont have to pay for the wrong one and the 30 or so not paid to replace
the right one

Thank you for the info.

The way I understand it is the solenoid connected to the ERG is an on off deal that determines if there will be any sucking and the PFE determines how much due to conditions like acceleration.

The flow of the Gases is not smooth like cigarette smoke going out a partially open window or too much to handle a fault will occur.


Service for for both units is the same and the first thing to check is the hose to see if it is not clooged and to make sure Garage exaust isnt removing to much of the exaust . I have no garage and the hose was clear so I figured it was the PFE.

It is almost impossible to check voltages at the connector so im going to strip a little casing of the wires where I can get to it.

What I cant seem to undersatnd is where the soot comes from. If the on /
off solenoid is closed until operating temp then any soot at start up would go out the exaust and not into intake.

After a stop for gas say.. Car is at op temp. on/ off opens like it should
but PFE is wrong and sending a signal that is too high or low so a big dose of that soot is going in at an RPM that wont suck it through? If ya make a lot of stops shopping thats a lot of soot.

I intend to clear the passage when I get the balls to mess with a rusty connection at the exaust. When I get them I will also attack the rusty lines on my steering gear to stop the leak at the seal. No balls on e bay

Good luck

With a good scan tool you can check voltage of most sensors.Carbon is a normal product of burning petroleum. Their will alway be some carbon build up in any engine, the first gen 4.6 have very small openings in the EGR channels and this is why they tend to plug solid. After the engine reaches operating temp the opening of the EGR depends on engine load. The EGR passage is at the intake, you do not remove any exhaust parts or the EGR to clean them.

Thank you for the info.

The way I understand it is the solenoid connected to the ERG is an on off deal that determines if there will be any sucking and the PFE determines how much due to conditions like acceleration.

The flow of the Gases is not smooth like cigarette smoke going out a partially open window or too much to handle a fault will occur.


Service for for both units is the same and the first thing to check is the hose to see if it is not clooged and to make sure Garage exaust isnt removing to much of the exaust . I have no garage and the hose was clear so I figured it was the PFE.

It is almost impossible to check voltages at the connector so im going to strip a little casing of the wires where I can get to it.

What I cant seem to undersatnd is where the soot comes from. If the on /
off solenoid is closed until operating temp then any soot at start up would go out the exaust and not into intake.

After a stop for gas say.. Car is at op temp. on/ off opens like it should
but PFE is wrong and sending a signal that is too high or low so a big dose of that soot is going in at an RPM that wont suck it through? If ya make a lot of stops shopping thats a lot of soot.

I intend to clear the passage when I get the balls to mess with a rusty connection at the exaust. When I get them I will also attack the rusty lines on my steering gear to stop the leak at the seal. No balls on e bay

Good luck

"...you do not remove... the EGR to clean... "

Cleaning the channels can be done without removing the EGR? How, then, do you clean the channels?

Linky below....
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00015.html


"...you do not remove... the EGR to clean... "

Cleaning the channels can be done without removing the EGR? How, then, do you clean the channels?

90 percent is very high and it sounds like you break the old parts and take a look inside.

Rust on the inside would support the condensation theory and the reason for being relocated to the fender or firewall as I have read in some Ford posts.

Im going to for now say that my part works. Until I clear the channels.
As in my post from the Smoky Mountain trip I could run WOT for a month and they wont clear themselves. There is just draw or suck and no push behind it.

Am anxious to read the differing theories on not having to remove EGR vave.
Im thinking they remove it from intake and bend the tube a bit or rotate it
to get to the hole.

Myself i kept thinking about the movie Beverly Hills Cop and " I aint falling for the Banana in the tailpipe"AND would it really cause a car to stall from the backpressure if so would say half a Banana give whats going up the tube to EGR a boost enough push to get the stuff moving?

Also On the two house unit? Beings the pull is the same at the vaccum
side regardless of which one is on there. Wouldnt capping off the small side do the same thing as the Single house thus two parts become one?

Shopping day is Wedsnday so I have time on the Banana Thing. For now the 70 dollar Metal solenoid is going back and i'm buying the rubber bushings for the sway bars.

Thanks and Good Luck