Gauges fuse keeps blowing... need help!

Hey everyone, i should post here more frequently. I have a lot to show and tell. Back to topic, the gauges fuse keeps blowing. I just finished up a T56 swap for IROC, and when i was done, none of my gauges register or even work at all. I printed the fuse block diagram for gauges fuse from alldata at my job. I pulled all connectors that have anything to do with that fuse and it still blows! I need help! Any ideas? Feel free to chime in at anytime WrightZ28, your good at diagnosing problems.

any wires worn down and touching the chassis?

As far as under the dash goes, no. I've checked under there like crazy just to see if anything would possibly be shorted to some metal under there but no avail. I haven't fully checked the engine bay yet, just a couple of glances, because i figured my problem wouldn't be there. When i swapped the T56, i broke my brake switch when installing the clutch master cylinder. I thought maybe i pulled some wires loose because i used a big screwdriver to pry the push rod into place (doh!) I think that i may have pinched some wire in the engine bay because the engine did rock a little when i pulled the tranny and i really didn't check to see if any wires got smashed in the process. Gonna go double check when i get chance. Quick question about fuses. If a fuse blows, does it mean you have a possible bad ground or is the power source ground before it should?

The EGR solenoid is on the gauge circuit. Years ago my EGR connector shorted internally and kept blowing the gauge fuse...might want to check that.

:2cents: Check and make sure no wires got pinned up between the engine/trans.

Hotrod you, da man! I just ran outside after reading these last couple of post and found two wires pinched between bellhousing and block. The wires were pink/black and grayish/white wire. Any idea where these wires are supposed to go? The fuse doesn't blow any more, but i know something else isn't gonna work anymore since i cut the wires (only way of getting them out at the time with out separating the bellhousing, just to tired i guess.

You should go ahead and take the time to get the wires out from between the two surfaces. I know thats a motha of a thing to have to do but you should make sure the engine/trans surfaces are exactly flat against each other. If not you could face future problems like the bolts falling out or the transmission case cracking (among other things).

If your careful you can unbolt the trans mount, loosen the trans/engine bolts about 1/4 inch to get the wires unhung without having to do the entire process over again.

Once you figure out where the wires run to, slide some shrink tube over one end of them, solder the connections back together and slide the shrink tubing over the splice, then just use a lighter to seal the shrink tube.

Glad you got the problem pinned and dont feel bad about it that type of stuff happens all the time.

I know, that's what im gonna do eventually. The car is currently off the road and will be for awhile. I've got a couple of swaps that I plan on doing, 4th gen dash swap, which I plan to take on this winter (depends, stock setup is hurting right now, cracked vents, missing emblem, etc.). Next summer I might build the L98 up or swap an LT1 in its place. Tranny will be coming out again before I drive it again (really havent driven the car much since I got it) but thanks for the advice hotrod.

No problem. Good luck with it man, mines going through the "change of life" right now... I have so many projects going on with it that its not even driveable. I re-redoing the inside, i still have to paint it after i get a new fender, the motor is getting torn down and rebuilt, the firewall is being totally rebuilt for certain reasons, many suspension upgrades to be done, the list goes on and on. I dont see it back on the road for at least another year but by then is should shine like a diamond.