Brake lines

I have a '98 F150. I popped a steel brake line that runs to the back of the truck. The line is in 2 pieces coming off of the proportioning valve and meets a brake hose just about at the rear axle. It broke at the point where it joins the brake hose. I'm wondering if anyone has replaced this line (these lines) before. I got the bad section out already (the back 1/2) and got a couple of pieces from NAPA or O'Reilly's to replace it. I can't seem to match up the "off-the-shelf" connectors to the fitting that Ford used. I'm about to pull the front piece out and bend up one using the same off-the-shelf pieces from NAPA. I don't really want to do all that. It looks like an ugly piece to bend and replace. I asked the dealer about it and they said they would need to bend one up.
Any guidance would be appreciated.

Take your old fittings back to NAPA and match them up. They should have the right ones.

My son has a 94 F150 and we did several brake lines last year. Very few people stock individual brake lines. I beleive there is a company that will sell you a complete prebent stainless set - big $$$.

The most challenging part was realizing that all brake lines from NAPA, Autozone, etc have the same size fitting on both ends. Ford has several lines that have different fittings on each end - I think it is to prevent a wrong hook up at the factory.

You have two choices:
1. You can purchase adaptors at the local auto parts store. Make sure you purchase the ones for steel brake lines.
2. You can buy fittings from different sources on the net and make your own. You will need a tubing cutter and a flaring tool.

Hope this helps.

Take your old fittings back to NAPA and match them up. They should have the right ones.
They didn't have the right ones. I started with AutoZone, went to Advanced Auto, moved on to O'Reilly's before going to NAPA. The folks at NAPA sent me to the hardware store up the street. It has been a frustrating couple of days. :banghead:
My thought now is to simply replace all the lines from the proportioning valve back. This is a good idea for my truck anyway due to the amount of rust under there.

My son has a 94 F150 and we did several brake lines last year. Very few people stock individual brake lines. I beleive there is a company that will sell you a complete prebent stainless set - big $$$.

The most challenging part was realizing that all brake lines from NAPA, Autozone, etc have the same size fitting on both ends. Ford has several lines that have different fittings on each end - I think it is to prevent a wrong hook up at the factory.

You have two choices:
1. You can purchase adaptors at the local auto parts store. Make sure you purchase the ones for steel brake lines.
2. You can buy fittings from different sources on the net and make your own. You will need a tubing cutter and a flaring tool.

Hope this helps.
I'm thinking more and more about the tubing cutter and flaring tool route. I am curious about bending the new line to match the old one. Do I have to get it to match bend-for-bend? If I find a different path that is equally "safe," can I take it? The line the comes off the proportioning valve seems to have a bunch of bends and turns. So many that it doesn't look like a path consideration anymore. Maybe there is a function behind these random-looking bends?

I'm thinking more and more about the tubing cutter and flaring tool route. I am curious about bending the new line to match the old one. Do I have to get it to match bend-for-bend? If I find a different path that is equally "safe," can I take it? The line the comes off the proportioning valve seems to have a bunch of bends and turns. So many that it doesn't look like a path consideration anymore. Maybe there is a function behind these random-looking bends?
Wherever you can route new lines is fine. As long as you can hold them down so if you can at least route through the old hold down, wherever the line goes in between won't matter. Also take into consideration any flex in the system from suspension movement. You'll want to have extra so you line does not kink or break.

Sorry about your auto parts stores not having the right fittings. The NAPA here always does or else has the right adapters to fit. Yes you can cut and flair your own and use the old fittings.

Sorry about your auto parts stores not having the right fittings. The NAPA here always does or else has the right adapters to fit. Yes you can cut and flair your own and use the old fittings.
That would be great. But the old fittings are so rusted to the lines now, I don't think I can safely separate them. Any tips or tricks? Using new lines in the old fittings would be wonderful!

That would be great. But the old fittings are so rusted to the lines now, I don't think I can safely separate them. Any tips or tricks? Using new lines in the old fittings would be wonderful!
Try a product called B'Laster. It is sold at most automotive stores. I have spayed it on bolts that an impact will not remove. After soaking for a couple hours the bolts busted loose with a wrench and unscrewed by hand. It puts WD40 to shame.

Try a product called B'Laster. It is sold at most automotive stores. I have spayed it on bolts that an impact will not remove. After soaking for a couple hours the bolts busted loose with a wrench and unscrewed by hand. It puts WD40 to shame.
That's a great idea! I sprayed a couple of ounces into a baby food jar this morning to let the fittings soak a while. If this works, I won't have to ride in my wife's van to work anymore. I let her drive because I hate that van. The whole thing is driving me crazy. :screwy: I have to get my truck rolling - and stopping - again.

Thank you folks for all of your help. I guess I should have updated this post earlier, sorry.
Soaking the old fittings worked like a champ! I got the old guys loose, fitted 'em up on the new lines and I'm good to go again.

Thank you for all the suggestions!!!

Would you guys be able to help me with a proportional valve. I had to cut my hoses and install a new one. It took about three weeks to get the part. Now I am unsure I have each pipe connected correctly. I have tried to bleed the brakes. The front bled but would not stop the truck completely. The rear when I opened the valve did not let out air or brake fluid? I would think it has to be in where I connected those lines.

I reversed the two lines coming from the master cylinder to see if that had been reversed. It did not change anything.

Thanks for any help! Please email if you would like [email protected]