sluggish fixed/alternator & battery isssues

I have had some similar problems of some of u others
first I had a sluggish car/no power to little power
an old race car builder cleaned my air intake out and poof it was fixed
I have power again
but now days
advance told me both alternator and battery was good a month ago
but it occasionally needed a jump so I bought a jump box
dad thought the battery was old and bought one of them
still problems--still had to jump it daily
went back to advance told them had new battery
they tested again-they say it's the alternator
got alternator put in-still won't start without a jump
so went back for advance to test it and said it was alternator
haha showed them my receipt
and well still said it was the alternator
waiting for son to remove and exchange and replace....
and then???
F-ound
o-n
r-oad
d-aily

I inherited this car from my daughter when sluggish problem was happening---my folks got her a newer one.....
It's really for my 15 year old (GOD bless his soul is to get it when he gets his DL)
I have an old '87 ford ranger crew cab truck but the gears (it's a 5 speed) bother my buldged lumbar disc so I fix up and drive the car for now....or should I say, I try!

Also,
when someone knocks the trunk light out
the radio goes out and I have to change the fuse
trust me
I keep ample fuses
but it's a pain ....these cars seem to really have alot of problems

You said you're waiting to replace the alternator. If that fixes the problem then that's good, but if not then I'd be thinking along these lines:

The problem isn't necessarily with the battery or the alternator. You might have an electrical fault which is partially draining the battery when the ignition is in the Off position, or it could be a problem with the wiring in the starter circuit - maybe a bad wire or connector.

I'd start by measuring these three voltages:

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Voltage after sitting parked overnight, but before starting engine - should be around 12.6V (indicates that there is no excessive current drain with the ignition in the Off position, and that the battery is capable of holding at least some level of charge).

Voltage with engine idling - should be towards the high end of thirteen-point-something volts - maybe as high as 14V (indicates that the alternator is producing output current, and that that current is reaching the battery. Also indicates that the rectifier is functioning, converting AC to DC).

Voltage when revving engine slightly - should climb to around 14.2V and then hold steady at that voltage regardless of further increase in engine speed. (Indicates that the voltage regulator is functioning, and clamping the upper voltage threshold at the correct level).

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If you're still having problems after replacing the alternator, could you let us know what those three voltages are, and that would help us determine where the root of the problem is.