Weight reduction, ECS, SRS, bushings?

1. How much potential does the 3000gt have for weight reduction? think if I tryed I could drop 300lbs?

2. My LS has got the little button for ECS, I was just wondering if i put aftermarket shocks and springs on it would it mess with that at all, or would i have to do any tweaking to the motors or anything and would it still function in a similar manner?

3. My SRS warning light is on and my belts dont work right either so i was planning on installing a new 3point belt system and removing the SRS system alltogether(id rather not have the force of a shotgun blast in my face anyways), i just want some opinions.

4. Engineering question I can't really find an anwser to, would it be worth it to install polyeurethane bushings for a little bit more torque to the wheels?(they would probably be a compliment to new sway bars and stut bars)

THANKS!

my clutch is fixed :iceslolan

1. maybe, but it would require carbonfiber hood, hatch, and maybe other body parts and full interior strip, rims, glass replacement....prettymuch everything you can lighten. not worth it for the tenths it will shave IMO.

2. no, the ECS wont work with aftermarket shocks.

4. your talking about motor mounts right? ive heard great things about them, but its much more cost effective to go with solid mounts.

i meant suspension bushings but motor mounts as well

Im like envious of my buddies integra hes taken almost 500lbs off of its weight with carbon fiber and just other stuff (he has no powersteering or AC) and its so stiff at a stop light his whole car rattles O.O hes insane

i guess ill just start replacing parts and just tally up how much weight i can take off im not sure if i wanna do full interior strip yet or not though i know i deffinatley hate those back seats, its not like anyone can even fit back there while im driving anyways i kinda do like the racecar look :)

maybe a roll cage or cross bar or something for stiffness

i dunno alot can be done i just got the thing

ill figure it out

If i were you, i would considder these modifications..

remove rear seats, remove spare tire and everything in the trunk.

Sparco seats are nice, together saving around 20-30 pounds

carbon fiber hood.. maybe carbon fiber hatch if moneys no issue.

the SL has all the bells and whistles of the VR4, so by taking out the accessories like ECS, and like active aero system and whatever, you are initially cutting weight.

hope you dont have any mods to audio in your car - i.e. subs

then racing wheels.. enkei :-D

how about some sparco carbon fiber pedals.... just kidding.

if you add a rollcage, then you're adding in an extra 93 pounds at least.

if you want a racecar look, you could strip your interior, but think about when you are wanting to resell.

if you want a stiff suspension, drop your car with coilovers (Tein FLEX Complete Coilover Suspension Kit (with pillow ball mounts)) with aftermarket control arms, strut bar, sway bar replacement.

just by browsing, i came across a plexiglass replacement on 3sx, and you are looking at $1100 on a set. i haven't really seen other replacements anywhere else.

by the way, if by removing your SRS system is meaning to remove your current steering wheel, it is against the law to remove a steering wheel that had an airbag with one without, if used as a street car -such as an aftermarket wheel

if by disengagement, that's a whole different story. I think you could have lots of fun tearing apart your car, getting new seats, and by getting rid of those damn decorations they call seats in the back.

If i were you, i would considder these modifications..

remove rear seats, remove spare tire and everything in the trunk.

Rear seats dont weigh shit. And it looks like shit not to have them in there

Sparco seats are nice, together saving around 20-30 pounds

Sparcos are also about $600 each. Not cheap

carbon fiber hood.. maybe carbon fiber hatch if moneys no issue.

FG hood is fine also. Minimal weight difference between CF and FG but big price diff. CF hatch isnt worth it. Stock hatch doesnt weight anything. Its the glass that weighs alot

the SL has all the bells and whistles of the VR4, so by taking out the accessories like ECS, and like active aero system and whatever, you are initially cutting weight.

No SL ever came with Active aero.

hope you dont have any mods to audio in your car - i.e. subs

then racing wheels.. enkei :-D

Enkeis are ok but most Enkeis are not wide enough for our cars.

how about some sparco carbon fiber pedals.... just kidding.

if you add a rollcage, then you're adding in an extra 93 pounds at least.

if you want a racecar look, you could strip your interior, but think about when you are wanting to resell.

if you want a stiff suspension, drop your car with coilovers (Tein FLEX Complete Coilover Suspension Kit (with pillow ball mounts)) with aftermarket control arms, strut bar, sway bar replacement.

If you want coilovers screw Tein, save $600 and go with Megan Racing. Using the coilovers will save weight over stock struts. Will save at least 20 lbs

just by browsing, i came across a plexiglass replacement on 3sx, and you are looking at $1100 on a set. i haven't really seen other replacements anywhere else.

Its not plexiglass, its lexan. And its not DOT legal. Using lexan windows on a street car isnt smart either as it scratches and fogs easily.

by the way, if by removing your SRS system is meaning to remove your current steering wheel, it is against the law to remove a steering wheel that had an airbag with one without, if used as a street car -such as an aftermarket wheel

No its not. I've asked people in the know about it. The only thing that is a requirement is that if you tell the buyer if you sell the car.

if by disengagement, that's a whole different story. I think you could have lots of fun tearing apart your car, getting new seats, and by getting rid of those damn decorations they call seats in the back.
My responses are bolded

nicely put stealthtee.

and as far a the teg and 3000gt go incomparion there both in difference classes. the teg is build to be a sport coupe as where the gt is a touring car. yes there heavy but they have alot of features and power to make up for it.
teg stock hp 120ish gt sl stock hp 222

as blink stated its honestly not worth it in our cars. in the 4 hours it takes u to rip apart ur car for the "racecar look" put those hours in at work, save your money, and buy yourself that catback youve been looking at. i promise you ull like the catback alot better then all the road noise youll hear with no interior.

hah.. well at least i made a few good calls. i had a feeling there were some questionable thoughts of mine. i knew there wasn't active aero, i was just giving an example. i probably should have made a better one.

i'm almost certain about the steering wheel law thought. i'm going to do a refresher research.

is it really that bad looking without the rear seats??

and, lastly, i'm not good with wheels and tires... are there ANY enkei rims that fit? or what else fits at least?

Yes it looks horrible without the rear seats. They dont weight enough to just get rid of them.

As for the steering wheel it is not a requirement. The NHSTA has the laws for them to be put in by the manufacutrer. But once it is in the consumers hands they can do with it as they please. Its no different than someone turning off there passenger airbag if their car is so equipped with that switch. In some quick research the NHSTA is changing their opinions on airbags and the so called added safety because of injuried being caused by them.

I can understand where everyone is coming from but theres a couple things, im not going to resell this car its been my dream car forever and im lucky enough to have one at 19(ive been working my ass off for the past 6 months to save 6grand (ended up only needing 2 and a half)) but i think im going to work on removing parts such as AC compressor and other un needed tiny stuff either way and my interior is kinda shitty anyways so i mite just get rid of it and tuck any wires anywhere i can so they arent seen, ECS isnt that great so im prolly gunna get new struts and try to build a nice shell out of my car and keep driving it and then prolly buy a new engine after i get little bit more bank and hold on to it adding parts like cams and some other things i got the cash for and since its not a Vr4 its got a 10:1 compression ratio so ill prolly add like 6-8lbs of boost with a supercharger and after i have a nice engine sitting THEN ill work on the exaust and maybe work on a custom interior once i drop that thing in

my huge run on is awesome(was just spilling thoughts)

sure you wanna go SC instead of TT? you can TT on 10:1 compression...you just have to get a good tune and a datalogger. turbos are much more tried and true than the supercharger as well...way more options out there.

Ok, I'm gonna tell you what I told someone else who was trying to do the same thing. These cars are not light and never will be light. Stripping it, gutting it, whatever is retarded to do on a daily driven street car. Who the hell cares if you dont plan to get rid of it. I dont ever plan on getting rid of mine either. If you want the car to look good then DO NOT strip it. You'll look just like any other ricer out on the road today. If you really want a light car go buy a CRX or some shit.

well id be striping it to eventually be adding my own interior alot of it falling apart and the leatehr is torn, even if i look like a ricer who the hell cares? they dont gotta drive it and i kinda like the idea of superchargers to have no lag, but i still have a little while to decide if it ends up costing me less for a vr4 TT setup ill deffinatley think about it

i really like hearing everyones opinions :iceslolan

Do some research. LAG is overrated. Ive been in some larger turbo 3/s's and felt no lag. My TSI has a 16g and has virtually no lag. Another thing better about turbos is you can stay in vacuum if you want. No contant boosting. Its also easier to increase the boost on a turbo set up.

Another major factor is turbos are PROVEN on our engines. Superchargers o the other hand are proven.. at failing to deliver.

mm...it is nice to be able to just cruise around at 2k or 2500 revs, getting good milage, then just stomp it and feel that nice 300hp kick in the ass...nothing better.

Do some research. LAG is overrated. Ive been in some larger turbo 3/s's and felt no lag. My TSI has a 16g and has virtually no lag. Another thing better about turbos is you can stay in vacuum if you want. No contant boosting. Its also easier to increase the boost on a turbo set up.

Another major factor is turbos are PROVEN on our engines. Superchargers o the other hand are proven.. at failing to deliver.

i've never been in a turbocharged car... what does it mean to stay in vacuum? obviously there's no boosting at that point but. :banghead:

Do some research. LAG is overrated. Ive been in some larger turbo 3/s's and felt no lag. My TSI has a 16g and has virtually no lag. Another thing better about turbos is you can stay in vacuum if you want. No contant boosting. Its also easier to increase the boost on a turbo set up.

Another major factor is turbos are PROVEN on our engines. Superchargers o the other hand are proven.. at failing to deliver.

i've never been in a turbocharged car... what does it mean to stay in vacuum? obviously there's no boosting at that point but. :banghead:

yeah, by the way, don't take out your AC, you can just run an underdrive pulley with 30% decrease.

i've seen the supercharger kits online and i'm skeptical. if you do a twin turbo conversion, i'm sure everyone will agree, you have no lag because your smaller turbo spools up to give you almost instant boost, and by the time thats maxed out, you are ready for your larger turbo to kick in. they are sequential. a supercharger is parasitic, by taking power from your engine by being driven off a belt.

i want to get a tt conversion, but i don't have the cash. insurance is gay ~ expensive.

i've never been in a turbocharged car... what does it mean to stay in vacuum? obviously there's no boosting at that point but. :banghead:
Basically staying in vacuum means the turbos arent spinning fast enough to create boost. On flat roads its easy to keep the car in vacuum because there is no extra load on the engine, but if you start up an incline, load increases and you go into boost, same as if you were to smash the loud pedal. Its not the best explanation but I've been sick so I help it helps a little. :lol:

Its not the best explanation but I've been sick so I help it helps a little. :lol:[/quote]

nice...:screwy:

Ok wow, I need to stop trying to explain things when my brain isnt in the correct mode.