1994 taurus wagon gl fuelpump??

I had a new fuel pump assembly put on in mar.07 last month 7-6-07 car died, the electric locks, windows and seats wouldn't work either. I kept hearing a humming noise coming from the back it was the anti-theft box, I unplugged it the noise stopped. Banged on gas tank car started took it to shop replaced fuel pump again. Its been doing great til yesterday was out all day came home turned car off the locks windows quit working car will not start back up and the anti-theft box was humming again. So my question is is it really the fuel pump going out and kicking in the anti- theft or is something else causing the fuel pump to keep going out? Any advice will be greatly appreciated....

Well obviously anything anti-theft would keep the car from starting BUT also if it's not a Ford fuel pump then they are known to not last very long. Some members have reported that they've only lasted for weeks and then needed replacing again. When replacing the fuel pump ALWAYS buy the FORD part, or you'll be rolling dice with the aftermarket. We need more information though... no anti-theft device should be 'humming'. You may have heard the fuel pump itself but it shouldn't have stopped making noise when you unplugged the box. Some information is missing. You'll probably need to get a meter and start taking readings...

Sounds more like an electrical problem ... maybe a poor battery connection. Some relays may hum if supplied with a low voltage. Stop worrying about the pump and get the door locks to work.

I don't know much about Ford anti-theft systems so this is just a guess.

I don't know if this helps, but after researching on the internet, I have found that the Taurus, in hot weather, can be subjected to "vapor lock" we all thought this was a thing of the past, but evidently it's still a problem at times. My wife got stranded in our 2002 Duratec Taurus the other day..but after 10 minutes or so it started right up. Seems there is a "turbo fuel pump" that might solve this problem. I don't know if it is a Ford product. Our car only has 30K miles, and has been well maintained...

My wife got stranded in our 2002 Duratec Taurus the other day..but after 10 minutes or so it started right up.
WOW, Lyle, you are a life saver! :grinyes: That's EXACTLY the same symptoms that we were having with our 2004 Duratec, and we were told to replace the 400.00 fuel pump. Gladly we waited (mostly because we didn't have the money :p ). Come to think of it the days that it was acting up it was hot outside, but we were also hearing a ticking/popping sound through our stereo while it was acting up. Maybe that was the fuel pump getting hot? We really feel a lot better knowing about this vapor lock problem. If you have any additional links for this, we'd certainly appreciate reading them. Wonder why Ford hasn't recalled the car(s) and fixed the problem? :)

Hi, my name is Victor. I have a Taurus 93 station wagon w/ starting problem. I thing is the fuel pump, because when i'm try start the car, make like runout on gas. The battery is new.
When i'm start take the tank out, someguy stop over and them, showme it my distributor don't have any electry power at all. Can you please talke what it can be the problem?
I' running very good, but the tempeture is very hot when my car decided don't work no more.
I check the fuel pressure end the gas come good.
If you don't undestand me let me know I talk my kids writte for me. Thank u

Victor, I see you posted a similar question on this topic in another thread as well. Please, no need to post the same questions in multiple places.

In the previous thread though, you didn't mention that you have checked the fuel pressure. Please see your other post for my suggestions there.

-Rod

Thank you Rod, but I don't know how the forum work.

Continue: I'm reemplace the fuel pump, the coil and my car don't wanne to starter. I'm try change the distributor cap and rotor ignition tomorrow and see how it work. What you thingh?

What do you mean by the statement that the distributor does not have electricity? Was there no spark to the spark plugs? What about spark from the coil, anything there? Have you checked for power to the coil primary, as well as a trigger pulse to the coil? If you don't have signal to the coil or voltage to the coil primary, changing the cap, rotor, fuel pump, and coil will not get the car started.

Checking for coil primary voltage and signal should be your next step.

-Rod

do you have some scheme to check from principle to aim the electrical system? As it is first that that to testear? I'm Change gasoline filter the gasoline pump and the coil. That but I can do?

do you have some scheme to check from principle to aim the electrical system? As it is first that that to testear? I'm Change gasoline filter the gasoline pump and the coil. That but I can do?

I'm sorry, gusvicmor, I'm having a lot of difficulty understanding your questions here.

If you are looking for a wiring diagram for the ignition system for your car, you can probably find that on the AutoZone Repair Info website. You'll need to know which engine (or the 8th digit of your VIN) your Taurus has.

As I mentioned before, if you really have no spark, changing the fuel filter and fuel pump is not going to get your car running. And if the coil is not getting voltage or signal, it won't fix the problem either.

I can't answer if you are able to test for voltage and signal to the coil. That will depend on the tools you have available to you as well as your understanding of the ignition system. At a minimum, you'll need the understanding and a test light.

-Rod

I'm here again. Please, try undestand me.
I check the fuel pump and the work fine, the problem is it. I put the tester in the fuel pump connector (4 connector) The this 4, only I have power in 1, I think the wire red not have power.
Do you have electric esquematic?
I'm reemplace the distribuitor and the car have electric power now, but don't have electricity in one line on the fuel pump connector.
U undestand?

At the connector to the fuel pump, the two wires for the pump are the pink/black wire and the black wire. The black wire should have continuity to ground. The pink/black wire should have battery voltage for the first couple of seconds after the key is turned to the run position and while the car is running. Obviously testing for voltage while the car is running will be difficult if you have access to the connector (since the fuel tank will be out of the car).

The yellow/white wire is for the fuel level sending unit, and the orange/yellow wire is the ground for the sending unit.

-Rod

I had a similar problem with my 93 Ford Taurus GL not starting. Then, maybe after an hour or so it would start up. Sometimes I could get it to start if I fed in some starting fluid. The shop thought it was a fuel pump problem but, after replacing it did the same thing. It turned out it was THE BODY CONTROL COMPUTER. Check this out. Next time you have trouble starting your car and it has symptoms like a bad fuel pump, open the hood, locate the Body control computer, it is under the plastic flap right behind the radiator at the top, and thump it a couple of times. Listen for a click if you have your ignition on and, the fuel pump starting up.

Next time you have trouble starting your car and it has symptoms like a bad fuel pump, open the hood, locate the Body control computer, it is under the plastic flap right behind the radiator at the top, and thump it a couple of times.
Wonder if the gen 4 model has this.

Ford calls this the Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM) and the Gen 4 Taurus does not use this. The 4th Gen has discrete relays to perform the functions.

-Rod