More on the trans shudder?
08-12-2007, 07:34 PM
I saw it mentioned about a trans shudder.
I bought a 94 TC that seemed to be maintained pretty well. Old had been changed regularly and the trans fluid was very clean and had no burned smell to it at all. I am unsure of whether it was serviced and will change it too be sure.
At first I thought it was rumble strips on the edge of the on ramp I was running over because it would only do it occasionally.
Once this shudder has begun is it "the beginning of the end" so to speek or can it be reversed or delayed?
Is it caused by lack of service, a built in bug or could it be from higher temps caused by a older and probably partially clogged radiator?
I believe an Additive was mentioned also by Towncar a dexgaurd or something like that.
I dont remember where the thread was that mentioned it so if you pardon the redundancy could you mention it again. Thanks
I bought a 94 TC that seemed to be maintained pretty well. Old had been changed regularly and the trans fluid was very clean and had no burned smell to it at all. I am unsure of whether it was serviced and will change it too be sure.
At first I thought it was rumble strips on the edge of the on ramp I was running over because it would only do it occasionally.
Once this shudder has begun is it "the beginning of the end" so to speek or can it be reversed or delayed?
Is it caused by lack of service, a built in bug or could it be from higher temps caused by a older and probably partially clogged radiator?
I believe an Additive was mentioned also by Towncar a dexgaurd or something like that.
I dont remember where the thread was that mentioned it so if you pardon the redundancy could you mention it again. Thanks
Towncar
08-12-2007, 09:48 PM
Yep, it was me that mentioned it recently, but the other regulars here have all mentioned it before as well.
The older transmissions require a friction modifier to keep the fluid from breaking down. A towing package with extra fluid and cooler can go further between flushes if not towing, but we all require flushes at 30/40k mile intervals. We all use a friction modifier that we trust, my favorite is Lubegard Red.
A new shudder is not the end of the road. Most shudders are curable.
Now here's the catch (there's always one), if you have high miles and never been flushed, this may spell disaster if flushed. Most shops will not do it or they'll make you sign a waiver. We must stick to the 30/40k regiment for the rest of the vehicles life. Just do it on time, every time.
If you have high miles and are not sure of the flush history, just drop the trans pan, clean it out, and replace the filter without draining the converter. This will mix some of the old fluid with the new, and start you out with a fresh pan and filter. If you find a plastic plug in the pan, this means it's never been removed and cleaned, it's the hole plug for the dipstick tube, they just push it into the pan from the factory.
Use this "no converter drain" method for a few intervals before (if ever) attempting a full flush.
Add some Lubegard Red (http://lubegard.com/automotive/trans_atf.html). It works miracles in freeing up sticking valves, and protecting your fluid from breakdown. It also cures that shudder almost immediately.
The newer transmissions that require Mercon V don't absolutely need a friction modifier, its formulated with that already. Mine and yours need Lubegard Red.
I'm sure your radiator/ transmission cooler is fine, and yes -- high temps will cause quicker fluid breakdown.
The older transmissions require a friction modifier to keep the fluid from breaking down. A towing package with extra fluid and cooler can go further between flushes if not towing, but we all require flushes at 30/40k mile intervals. We all use a friction modifier that we trust, my favorite is Lubegard Red.
A new shudder is not the end of the road. Most shudders are curable.
Now here's the catch (there's always one), if you have high miles and never been flushed, this may spell disaster if flushed. Most shops will not do it or they'll make you sign a waiver. We must stick to the 30/40k regiment for the rest of the vehicles life. Just do it on time, every time.
If you have high miles and are not sure of the flush history, just drop the trans pan, clean it out, and replace the filter without draining the converter. This will mix some of the old fluid with the new, and start you out with a fresh pan and filter. If you find a plastic plug in the pan, this means it's never been removed and cleaned, it's the hole plug for the dipstick tube, they just push it into the pan from the factory.
Use this "no converter drain" method for a few intervals before (if ever) attempting a full flush.
Add some Lubegard Red (http://lubegard.com/automotive/trans_atf.html). It works miracles in freeing up sticking valves, and protecting your fluid from breakdown. It also cures that shudder almost immediately.
The newer transmissions that require Mercon V don't absolutely need a friction modifier, its formulated with that already. Mine and yours need Lubegard Red.
I'm sure your radiator/ transmission cooler is fine, and yes -- high temps will cause quicker fluid breakdown.
08-12-2007, 11:49 PM
Lubegard Red Thank you
I always hate changing the trans fluid when I dont know the service record.
Changed it once started it up and nothing. Blew out the last of the clutches.
The fluid is real clean bright red in color and doesnt have the burned smell
Its full and hasnt required fluid in 8 months and been to the top of the Smokey Moutains and did heat up to bell ringing status but cooled down when I ran the heater a bit.
Im going to replace the radiator when I replace the seal in the steering gear
thats leaking instead of the whole unit. Save 125 on gear and that pays for radiator. With radiator and cowl out it should be even easier to get at the gear.
I think on the trans I'll check the torque converter through the inspection plate and see if it is original or replacement and trans for that matter.
If I decide to drian just enough for the Lubeguard Red whould you recommend draining it from the converter then filling and running it through the gears or lossening a couple bolts and letting it drip out if no plug in pan?
Thanks again and Good Luck
I always hate changing the trans fluid when I dont know the service record.
Changed it once started it up and nothing. Blew out the last of the clutches.
The fluid is real clean bright red in color and doesnt have the burned smell
Its full and hasnt required fluid in 8 months and been to the top of the Smokey Moutains and did heat up to bell ringing status but cooled down when I ran the heater a bit.
Im going to replace the radiator when I replace the seal in the steering gear
thats leaking instead of the whole unit. Save 125 on gear and that pays for radiator. With radiator and cowl out it should be even easier to get at the gear.
I think on the trans I'll check the torque converter through the inspection plate and see if it is original or replacement and trans for that matter.
If I decide to drian just enough for the Lubeguard Red whould you recommend draining it from the converter then filling and running it through the gears or lossening a couple bolts and letting it drip out if no plug in pan?
Thanks again and Good Luck
Towncar
08-13-2007, 12:16 AM
Well, since you'll have a new, dry radiator, there's going to be some fluid loss from the transmission just from the capacity of the coils inside the radiator.
I don't know the trans. fluid capacity of a radiator though.
The Lubegard, or whichever your preference, is 10oz bottles.
Personally I'm using just 10oz where the spec calls for about 12oz.
I wouldn't loosen the pan without replacing the gasket, if you know what I mean.
I don't know the trans. fluid capacity of a radiator though.
The Lubegard, or whichever your preference, is 10oz bottles.
Personally I'm using just 10oz where the spec calls for about 12oz.
I wouldn't loosen the pan without replacing the gasket, if you know what I mean.
08-13-2007, 12:36 AM
Good point and it certainly holds 10 oz.
I could get a good sample of the fluid to look at too.
Thank you.
I could get a good sample of the fluid to look at too.
Thank you.
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