93 bravada fuel line replacement

Hello everyone.My son just replaced the fuel pump and filter on his 93 Bravada,4.3L.Now the fuel line between the tank and the filter is leaking(very rusty) Anyone have an idea where this line can be purchased? I' guessing this would normally be a dealer item but since there aren't olds dealers anymore where should we go? Thanks for all your help in advance.

Most GM dealers can still order the part.

thanks for the reply taillight.does anyone know if it's available aftermarket?

I doubt if you'll find it, even through the dealer. Fuel and brake lines are a "bend it yourself" item. Cut out the rusty line with a tubing cutter and splice in a new piece using compression fittings. 3/8" steel brake/fuel line is readily available in lengths from 8" to 60" at most parts stores. Cut off the inverted flare fitting and bend the tube as necessary to fit. Compression fittings are rated at 170psi, well above the operating pressure on your vehicle.

thanks oldmaster.my son recently started working at the local gyear shop which is where he did the work.I am not allowed to help him in the shop due to insurance reasons but their "master tech" told him you can't use compression fittings because they will leak.also from what my son said the leak is very close to the fitting near the gas tank so I guess we need something with the o-ring fitting on it.

Compression fittings will work just fine. I have used this method for fixing steel line many of many times. Like old_master said, 170psi is more than enough. If done properly, its a good repair for these lines.

Could flare fittings, like brakes, be made up with what's left of the original fuel line then new made up to finish the job?

Dorman makes a fuel line repair kit part #800-159, (just under $20). It comes with 3/8" & 5/16" repair lines about 1' long each, that have the special quick disconnect end on each end. Splice it on with a compression fitting and you're done! Dorman makes several different fuel line repair kits and they all use compression fittings. The "master tech" is giving you a "line" of his own. ;) As Chris suggested, inverted flare will also work but doesn't solve the quick disconnect end problem. Inverted flare ends can be tricky to make, and also overkill for fuel lines.

thanks for all the input guys.as old master said dorman does make these fuel line repair kits. the problem is my son thought that another fitting other than the one at the sending unit was leaking when in reality it's leaking(cracked) where the steel line attaches to the rubber line near the sending unit , and the complete line is in pretty bad shape. so what I was thinking of doing was getting 1 of those kits for at the fuel filter-it comes with the nut,oring and compression fitting-2 brake lines,1 long-1 short(cutting the flares off 1 end of each),a flare union and 1 compression fitting for at the sending unit(cutting the oring flare off of the sending unit.the short line and the union is to extend the line from the sending unit so its acessible since were removing the rubber part.what do y'all think?

Provided all of your connections are compression or quick disconnect, that's the proper way to do it. An inexpensive tubing bender will make the job much easier, and avoid kinks in the tubing.

the repair kit is like oem,like a flare but with an oring,at the filter then a compression fitting(comes with the kit)then at the sending unit going to cut off the oem fitting and with a compression add a short piece of brake line w/thedouble flare and union to a longer brake line to attach to the repair kit near the filter.the short piece at the send unit is to make a disconnect acessible since we are going to remove the flexible rubber piece.

woohooo its fixed.turns out the "MASTER TECH" was wrong.it wasn't the main fuel line that was leaking it was the return.so we cut back to clean line,ran a piece of rubber fuel line and double clamped at both ends.

There is very little restriction in the return line, so pressure is not an issue. The return line discharges down through one of the three spring loaded tensioners in the module, directly into the cavity that the pump is in so the pump is constantly submerged in fuel, (to keep it cool). They make two different types of rubber fuel line, one is rated for fuel injection and may hold up longer. Either way your repair should be fine. Glad you got her going again. Now it's time to find a new "master tech" ;)