Wheel Hub Assembly replaced now squealing

Hey I just have a question out there for you pro's. I just spent my afternoon swapping out the drivers side front wheel hub assembly for my Pontiac Transport. Now I did all that and now have a squealing noise when I'm coming to the last few ft of braking to a stop.

Like going 60km/hr and braking to slow down to 40km/hr no squealing but when I want to come to a complete stop at a stop sign in the last few seconds before i completely stop I'm having some squealing.

Car in question is a 1998 Pontiac Transport Base Model.

I torqued all the nuts properly including the axle nuts etc..........

Thanks.

I'm perplexed....any chance brake components could be the culprit? WILl it do it if you let it just coast to a stop?

Well the thing is if you coast to a stop no noise........Its just those last few feet before you come to the complete stop............

Well the thing is if you coast to a stop no noise........Its just those last few feet before you come to the complete stop............
..even if not applying the brakes? (with transmission in Neutral)..anyway, I think it must come from the brakes, just the fact of removing caliper and disk... may be some rust was sandwitched between old hub and disk and some was left on part of the circumference inside the disk....annoying to go and check but this is my bet....

I don't want to create a new thread but have a question about how to "check" the rear wheel bearings to see if they are fubard.

Basically from my honda I just rotated the wheel and could hear it. Is it the same for the pontiac I'm assuming so.

Also the squealing sounds like its comign from the back now that I drove it again this weekend. This is when breaking and almost coming to a stop. But at the same time it sounds like a bearing.

This car had a full brake job done not less than 2000KM ago. Front Rotors/pads. Rear Shoes/Drums/Cylinders/Springs. So that squealing shouldnt' be brake related but willl haev to see I guess.

Yes last year I had a rear bearing hub shot..and rasing the wheel and rotating by hand delivered a gripping sound...and the other wheel did not: this is most convincing by comparison....as you do not expect...statistically speaking - that both are shot.. :) I understand the drums were changed recently, right?

Sure sounds like the brakes to me.

Take the pads off and get a file or small grinder and grind the front and rear of each pad on an angle and see if that clears it up. Might even ruff up the surface of the pad a little, to take the shine off it.


Well the thing is if you coast to a stop no noise........Its just those last few feet before you come to the complete stop............

nope its the bearings.........i ordered them last week from rockauto.com took a WEEK to coem to canada.

a certified mechanic inspected it before me and he even said without a doubt its the bearigns because the brakes in the rear are BRAND NEW......He noticed the bearigns were fubared when the brakes were changed by the mechanic.


EDIT
sorry you were refereing to my original post.

I will try what you said after I replace the rear bearings this coming weekend. Thanks for the tip though

Were they that much cheaper than aquiring them here in Canada?


nope its the bearings.........i ordered them last week from rockauto.com took a WEEK to coem to canada.

a certified mechanic inspected it before me and he even said without a doubt its the bearigns because the brakes in the rear are BRAND NEW......He noticed the bearigns were fubared when the brakes were changed by the mechanic.


EDIT
sorry you were refereing to my original post.

I will try what you said after I replace the rear bearings this coming weekend. Thanks for the tip though

Parts are ALWAYS cheaper in the States. If you can get them here without a broker/shipper, it's worth the wait/hassel every time.

update.

OK i ATTEMPTED TO replace both rear wheel bearings today. I mean attempted because i for the life of me could not get the hub/bearing off after even removing all 4 bolts.

I WHACHED the shit out of the edge where it must meet the other face and still no luck..

Anyone have any tips or anything. I stomped on it too.....Even after all 4 bolts were on it it felt like it was still being held on just as tight.

Anyone got any tips before I give up and go to a shop? Which I really don't want to do.

After the 4 bolts, it should come right off. The parts must be seized due to rust. Try some penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench or WD-40 should work.

You might want to try heat.

How about the other side? Same thing?

Here are some pics of the process...

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/ee/26/0900823d801bee26/repairInfoPages.htm

I'm aware of the link as I used it as a guide already.

BUt ya I've tried penetrating oil, wd-40 but not heat. WOuld a propane torch generate enough heat as thats all I'd have access too.

Don't have access to an oxy acetylene type equipment. Which would be amazing though.

Yes when I changed one last year it was indeed very hard to get it off . I do not remember really how I finally got it down but I was really satisfied when it finally happened. ......Well yes details are coming back: I was able to force it out by hammering in a sharp tipped blade or chisel in all corners between axle body and hub flange, inching it out bit by bit. I think I did not use heat, though I have an acetylene torch.