Sand/Media blasting for plastic?

After seeing Scalemaster's A110 Wip I was intrigued by his use of a Badger media blaster to clean residual paint off the body.
I thought I could get an old airbrush to do the same. I have an old Binks/Wren single action. I tried using baking soda in a cup and in a bottle, both times it "tried" to work. The "soda" clogged in the siphon tube. I haven't gave up yet, Ill keep trying.
I have acouple of 1:1 blasters and they are always alittle stubborn to get going.
Anyone else use a "mini" blaster? Pro's/Con's?
BTW Paasche also makes a "mini" blaster, they are around $70US. There is a Badger on e-bay for $24(buy it now).

Dan

After seeing Scalemaster's A110 Wip I was intrigued by his use of a Badger media blaster to clean residual paint off the body.
I thought I could get an old airbrush to do the same. I have an old Binks/Wren single action. I tried using baking soda in a cup and in a bottle, both times it "tried" to work. The "soda" clogged in the siphon tube. I haven't gave up yet, Ill keep trying.
I have acouple of 1:1 blasters and they are always alittle stubborn to get going.
Anyone else use a "mini" blaster? Pro's/Con's?
BTW Paasche also makes a "mini" blaster, they are around $70US. There is a Badger on e-bay for $24(buy it now).

Dan

Dan, a little polish bird said me that I know you from another great place: sorry if I didn't recognized before, I'm a bit distracted. So welcome here!

On the topic: I want to try too, I hoped yoy were more lucky with the attempt: I'll search those ebay auction too, 24 bucks is good deal. At least with my bazooka sandblast gun I'll turn my labrador in a pig that's trendy :D

Any news on how the sand blasting experiment went, Dan?

TBH, I'm not sure I fully understand the benefit of blasting, but I am willing to learn... :)

I think the process would benefit the folks that build the metal kits. Depending on what media you use you could put a realistic texture on the item. You can mask a metal part, like transmission ribs and media blast the unmasked areas to represent a "cast texture". I've read where jewelers will use "glass beads" to texture gold on watches.
This all started after seeing the great work ScaleMaster did cleaning up his A110 body.
I also think it may be the trick to removing chrome off parts.

The experiment was shelved when I found I could get one for $24.00......

This is all theory of course, I was hoping someone had tried this and could relay their results.:2cents:
Dan

Yep, no matter to me to use those on plastic: chlorine on chrome or DOT/isoprphilic on laquers are enough (and at last self-working LOL) but I was impressed by the appeal have the metal after sandblasting: dunno know if you'll recognize by picts but at naked eye is seems "real"

this is before:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/enginepart3.jpg


and this one is after:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/engsab1.jpg


It's smooth. TBH my search started to see if I can clean metal from prototypin marks and dirty... this can't be done, or not at 100%.

The "after" shot seems less shiny, more matte - is that right?

The "after" shot seems less shiny, more matte - is that right?

It's so, just sandblasted :D

Thanks Gio, it seems to give the whole assembly the same "texture". What did you use for "media". Did you get the Badger unit?:)
Dan

What did you use for "media". Did you get the Badger unit?:)
Dan
Not Dan, was one of the best italian masters, Roberto Quaranta aka R40 or Roberto's cave for who know him by the website, to sand my stuff in a professional sandblaster, one of those box used by dentist. He used first silica and than a fine alu oxide, with two types of brush, coarse with silica and thin with oxide.

Yep it give th same texture smoothing everything a bit , and clearing minor scratches done cleaning white metal parts.