2000 Silverado AC problems
n8zdogg
08-02-2007, 12:29 AM
I have a 2000 Siverado w 183,000 miles (90% highway). The AC no longer works. Have a couple questions
#1 How expensive is it to have the AC serviced/charged at a shop? I know the AC kits at NAPA are around $40.00.
#2 If the coolant is low, will it prevent the AC compressor from engaging at all?
#3 Can the clutch/bearing be replaced without installing a whole new compressor? I kind of suspect the bearing in this one might be bad.
#1 How expensive is it to have the AC serviced/charged at a shop? I know the AC kits at NAPA are around $40.00.
#2 If the coolant is low, will it prevent the AC compressor from engaging at all?
#3 Can the clutch/bearing be replaced without installing a whole new compressor? I kind of suspect the bearing in this one might be bad.
taillight
08-02-2007, 09:31 AM
1. $100-$300. Check around.
2. No.
3. Yes.
2. No.
3. Yes.
silverado122775
08-02-2007, 02:45 PM
My A/C went out as well.. I have a 2000 with about 155K. I found out my Compressor locked up me and need a new one.
The time labor it takes to replace the bearings, you could have spend the extra money and replace the whole thing. I am being quoted about $1000 to get it fixed. This includes the $500 compressor, $70 accumulator, some hoses and labor.
The dealership will charge the most for diag, running at $108. Midas it right up there as well $98.
Try taking it to a hole in the wall shop. They tend to be better priced. Find out what is wrong then determine if it is something you can do yourself.
The shop I took it to only charged me $50 for diag.
If it is your compressor you can get a reman for about $300 and Accumulator for about $40.
The time labor it takes to replace the bearings, you could have spend the extra money and replace the whole thing. I am being quoted about $1000 to get it fixed. This includes the $500 compressor, $70 accumulator, some hoses and labor.
The dealership will charge the most for diag, running at $108. Midas it right up there as well $98.
Try taking it to a hole in the wall shop. They tend to be better priced. Find out what is wrong then determine if it is something you can do yourself.
The shop I took it to only charged me $50 for diag.
If it is your compressor you can get a reman for about $300 and Accumulator for about $40.
n8zdogg
08-03-2007, 02:06 PM
Checked this last night - the compressor is not engaging and the bearing sounds dry/noisy. I've checked all the usual fuses and relays (Is there one under the dash??) The compressor is still not kicking on. Another post here mentions the compressor will NOT come on if the coolant is too low...The reply above says that the compressor will come on even if the coolant is low. Any help clearing this up may help me find the problem - thanks all!
taillight
08-03-2007, 03:36 PM
Are you talking coolent in the radiator or the R134A in the A/C ?
n8zdogg
08-03-2007, 05:12 PM
Are you talking coolent in the radiator or the R134A in the A/C ?
excuse me --- the refrigerant R134A --- I'm a newbie to A/c problems but I ain't that new....
excuse me --- the refrigerant R134A --- I'm a newbie to A/c problems but I ain't that new....
taillight
08-04-2007, 09:49 AM
The compressor will not run if the refrigerant is low.
n8zdogg
08-28-2007, 10:18 PM
Got the AC charged and was working well except for the noisy bearing when the AC was NOT on. Tried some WD40 around the where the pulley free wheels on the compressor clutch just to quiet it for temporary, now the AC is not working again...hmmm. Any ideas? Can i pull the pulley assembly and replace it?
wrparks
08-29-2007, 09:10 AM
Sounds like you have a fast leak. Did they put any dye in there with the refill? If so, they can tell you where the leak is. But, if you suspect a bad bearing, you just as well get that fixed too. I think if I remember right, you'll pay ~400 to 500 to get the clutch and about 800 to 1000 to replace the whole system. It's a tough call to make sometimes though, because it may turn out that your compressor is on it's last legs too. I'm not sure where on the newer vehicles, but on many of the old ones you could bypass the relay and try to force the clutch to engage even when it's low on coolant. Sometimes it required just a simple wire jumper at the pressure switch, others you had to directly run a wire to the compressor from the battery (don't run the wire unless somebody else on here says it is still ok to do so, I'd hate to be wrong about the newer vehicles and mess something up). That will give you an idea if the clutch is really bad or not, but don't run it long low on coolant or I can guarantee a new system is in your future.
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