AC question..I know its boring but gotta do it

My 94 grand prix se coupe's air doesnt seem to be as cold as it should be. the freon was low but still in the filled area. I put some more in and now it blows colder and is at the top of the filled area. Problem is it only blows out at about 69 degrees (while parked). Is that normal or should it be colder? The low pressure line is cold to the touch but not freezing and the high side is actually hot. everything seems to be engaging properly. This is not so much fun in florida!!!

In some ac systems, high side being hot is perfectly normal. I cant remember if its the fixed orifice type or the expansion valve type. I think orifice type, which yours is.

69 degrees huh? where are you measuring it? It should get down to at least 40 on max AC measured with a thermometer in the vent nearest the evaporator. usually the vent above the center console closest the driver.

You added freon? (Why not, hell this is America if a little is good, more is better) Not the case with AC systems. Is this an R12 system or an R134a type. what type did you add?

I suggest you take it to a shop and have it evacuated, dye injected, and recharged. Then have them do a performance test on it. The dye will help you find a leak later down the road if one develops.

not sure what the diff is between fixed and expansion type. wish i knew how to post pics then i could just take one. thats where i measured the temp. the vent in the center closest to driver. It is a r134a system. the only reason i added freon was because it was a the very bottom of the filled mark. now it says its full and did make it a little cooler. I would take it to a shop but the car isnt registered right now and the cheapest place ive found so far is 80 bucks just to look at it. i guess if it comes to it might have to rent a trailer or just take my chances. so what is the diff between fixed and expansion types? thanks for helpin out

an orifice type system uses an accumulator thats on the low side, usually made out of aluminum and I think is mounted underneith the airbox. Expansion valve types use a reciever/dryer on the high side thats made out of steel. Im pretty sure that yours is a orifice type.

How about the compresser? Making any noise, rattling? Maybe a valve problem in the compressor.

The problem with the wal-mart recharge kits is that they measure pressure of the system to determine if its charged. This is not accurate whatsoever. the proper way to fill a system is to evacuate and charge it to the amount of pounds specified on the sticker usually on the strut tower.

yeah it an orifice type.my gauge looks like a tire pressure gauge and just takes the pressure from the low side valve. everything seems to be in check. the compressor kicks on when its suppose to and no noises. Is there possbility of the condensor getting clogged or anything like that. My 94 ranger is having some issues with AC as well so maybe ill take that in and ask the guys about bringing this in as well. Thats the only thing i can think of because everything clicks on when its suppose to and off when its suppose to. Is there a way to check the condesor for blockage i guess? thanks for your help it is much apprceciated

Yes, there is a way to check the condensor for blockage. With the AC system runing run your fingers along the coils of it, as you do, the temperature should change gradually. If it all of a sudden changes, there is a blockage.

I still wouldnt doubt that your a little low on freon. When you checked it with your pressure guage, did you do it with the car running and AC on? If you didnt, there's your problem.

Yeah the AC was running full blast while the car was running. I will check the coils tomorrow and see if there is any temp change.

so i noticed that one of the 2 electric fans is not turning. Does that fan kick in only at certain times or should it be running all the time. And if so could this be a good reason why the AC isn't cold?

well, it could be, but its hard to say. Is your condensor mounted by the fan that works? Might just want to check airflow through the condensor and make sure that the fan in front of it is pushing enough air through it to disperse the heat.

well the update is that the wiring to the fan was just loose so fixed that and made sure the AC was full. but I see some oil coming out of the compressor so I think that may be the final issue. It stays cold for a while after i filled it but is slowly getting warmer i think. So the question is why do they say i need to replace the dryer with the compressor? Both were actually replaced about 3 yers ago (25000 miles). im guessing they previous people put in a rebuilt compressor.

Where is it leaking on the compressor? Is it near the pulley? Sometimes you can just put a new seal in these and it will work just fine.

THey suggest to replace the drier because it catches a lot of the debris that gets in the system when a compressor grenades itself internally. If you're on a budget, and the compressor is just leaking, you could probably get away with not replacing it, as it was replaced recently. Do yourself a favor and remove the orifice/filter and inspect and replace it (they'e cheap, like $2). If the orifice filter is clogged with black particles, then I'd strongly suggest replacing the drier too, as your system has contaminants in it.

well I haven't been able to look at it at all. Way to busy. It does look like it is leaking between the 2 pulleys (the one that always spins and the internal that spinds when the AC is on). Well the internal pulley doesn't spin anymore and I assume that is because all the AC fluid has leaked out. Are those seals something that I can do myself. Not to familiar with AC systems and don't really want to pay 300 bucks for a new compressor.

I would assume the drier would be ok then due to the fact that this car has not been driving that much in the last year. Sat for about 6 months due to a starting problem. Fixed that and now it only gets a drive every couple of weeks due to it being unregistered. Its a great car and hate to sell it but it seems thats what I might have to do. Hopefully after I fix this problem though.

Thanks for sticking with this. Sorry It took so long to reply.

Normally, we'd close a thread this old, but you're the OP so we can let it continue. If the compressor hasnt locked up you should be fine to just change the compressor out

yeah the outside ring on the compressor (one touching the belt) is still spinning fine. Do you think that its possible to just replace the seal like tblake was talking about or just get another one? Also where is the orifice filter located. Is it something that I will obviously notice. Assuming it is on the line right before the dryer.

I usually try to respond when I get an email telling me someone has responded but never did then was busy and forgot about it. Ill try to not let it go so long without a response next time.

I dont think replacing the compressor seal or even changing out the compressor is a DIY job unless you have a manifold guage set in your garage.

no manifold gauge set here... quite honestly not even sure what one looks like. So its not just as easy has making sure the system is purged and then putting another in then?