Help-P302 #2 cylinder misfire

Hello everyone!

I just bought a 96 honda accord EX, 5 speed, two doors with 175000 miles. I have three children and I am tight on budget so I really need your help. The car looks and runs decent but it has some flaws as you can expect for an 11 years old car. The CEL or MIL reads P302 and P401 (EGR air flow restricted). I did a search and found how to clean the EGR but my concern is the P302 code.

Does anybody knows a thread in how to fix the P302? and if involves opening the timing belt cover, another thread (with pictures if possible) in how to replace the timing belt? I am new to Hondas so please, don't be hard on me. Another thing, the steering boot is shut (drivers side) according to the manual (Haynes) is an easy task. It calls to slide the boot off and to slide the new one in. It does not mention putting any kind of high velocity grease. I am planning to do the boot first because I need the car to go to work. I missed work yesterday and I cannot afford to miss again.

Thank you for your help!

Just need to find out why the #2 is misfiring...could be bad plug, wire, injector or harness, distributor cap, or even a vacuum leak. Since you have a code for EGR, focus on that first. If the EGR valve is dirty and gets stuck open slightly sometimes, it can cause a lean misfire that will give you a PO30X type code occurring in the cylinder closest to the EGR inlet...

Clear the codes after cleaning the EGR valve and passages, then see if the misfire code returns.

Are you talking about the CV axle boot, or the dust cover over the inner tie rod at the steering rack?

Thanks for your response, and I will focus in the EGR problem first to determine if that is the one causing the misfire.

The boot or dust cover I am referring to is the steering rack and pinion (driver's side) boot that sits behind the engine, and is right behind the drive axle but close to the stabilizer bar. I bought the boot already ($24.99) but does not say if grease is needed. I asked the guys at the auto parts store and they said that all I need to do is clean the splines or gears with W40 and slide the boot in and zip tie. They also said that lubricant or grease is not needed because it lubricates itself with the power steering fluid. I though it was odd, that is why I came here for help.

I am almost done replacing the discs and brakes. After resolving the boot issue (To grease or not to grease), I will move on with the A/C (The A/C issue will have to be resolve by a technician) and lastly, the driver's side window.

I forgot to mention that I replaced the plugs (NGK) and gapped at .44. before my original post. I measured the resistance in the spark plug wires and they seem ok. I will check the distribuitor cap and rotor after the EGR.


You are a big help, thanks!

They are correct, the rack boot is just to keep grit away from the rack's outer seal. Clean it up and replace the boot, that's all it needs.

Well, I will get my hands dirty today, and I hope to finish today. Thank you.

I have an Alldata pdf file for timing belt replacement. I wish I could post it here but the features we get on this forum suck (we get none!!!). As a result none of the board menbers will be able to see or use it!!!

MODERATORS! Can you do something about that?


I can send it to you as an e-mail attachment.


Good luck,

Sam

I will appreciate if yo send it to me as an Email attachment. sd_joe at adelphia.net (replace the "at" with "@"). And you can count I will post the results. I did not have time to do the job today b/c I decided to replace the end links also and have to special order those parts.

I have my digital camera ready for a DIY on this task...

"Just need to find out why the #2 is misfiring...could be bad plug, wire, injector or harness, distributor cap, or even a vacuum leak. Since you have a code for EGR, focus on that first. If the EGR valve is dirty and gets stuck open slightly sometimes, it can cause a lean misfire that will give you a PO30X type code occurring in the cylinder closest to the EGR inlet..."


Bro, Sorry to bring this thread back to life but I wanted to update the status of my car. Finally, I got around to and decided to check the distribuitor cap and ignition rotor. Guess what, the distribuitor cap was cracked and in bad shape as well as the rotor. I replaced both and the check engine light went away. Not to mention that the car performance is very noticeable. I spent $30.00 in parts.

Thank again,