blazer not starting (no dash lights)

Hi,

I have been having problems with my 97 Blazer for probably about 10 months to a year with this same problem. The problem was, when I turned my key into the on position, none of my dash lights would came on for a few seconds and my fuel pump wouldn't come on to prime the engine. It would also randomly die on me while I was driving. It was not an engine stalling problem though, it was something electrical because all the dash lights would just shut off. Sometimes it would start right back up, but sometimes I would have to turn the key back and forth to get the dash lights to come on. I had this checked out, but since it was so random, they couldn't find anything wrong with it. So, I just waited. It progressively got worse and worse, with it taking longer and longer for the dash lights to come on. Yesterday, it finally quit on me and the dash lights will not come on at all. I was still getting power though because I could roll down my windows, work my radio, and turn on my headlights. I was reading this post:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=67530


on this forum, but I didn't feel like there was a definite answer. It seems like it's narrowed to either the ignition switch or the EGR valve. I was wondering if you guys could give me a suggestion of which to try. I'm guessing the ignition switch, but a friend told me that he had the same problem and it ended up being the EGR valve on his.

Thanks,
Adam

Sounds like the common ignition switch problem, very common on the '97's.

Sounds like the common ignition switch problem, very common on the '97's.

:iagree:

EGR valve wouldn't cause the electronics to fail, the ignition switch module will.

Take a look here, the part is <$100.00 at Autozone or the similars stores.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=287636

That's what I was thinking also, but it sounded like on that post, they were saying it could've been the EGR valve. I will try replacing the ignition switch and see what happens. Hopefully, if that's not what's wrong, they will allow me to return the part. Do you guys know about how long this job takes to do? I've never done it and it sounds like a terrible job. Thanks for your opinions too.

Take it back?:grinyes:
Would you want to buy a new part that someone else has allready installed and or bunt up or messed messed up or messed with?
Most electrical parts are non returnable for a good reason.



It is the mechanics or DIY job to do a proper test out before trying new parts.

If yours is dead and will not start it is a very good time to test it out.
Get a test light and a repair book with the wiring diagram and check it out.
As the other posters have said 9 out of 10 times on a 97 you will have a ign switch problem.

But proper testing will tell the story.
Good luck.
MT

Yea, I guess that is true. I don't go to the auto parts store much, so I guess I wouldn't know that rule too well. It does make more sense for it to be non-returnable though. It makes more sense to test the bad part also. I guess I will start pulling it apart today then and seeing what I can do with it. I have the Haynes repair manual. Will it have some method in there for me to test it? I'm hoping so because I would hate to have to waste $100. I know AutoZone and places can test alternators and some other parts, do you know if they test ignition switches some how?

Yea, I guess that is true. I don't go to the auto parts store much, so I guess I wouldn't know that rule too well. It does make more sense for it to be non-returnable though. It makes more sense to test the bad part also. I guess I will start pulling it apart today then and seeing what I can do with it. I have the Haynes repair manual. Will it have some method in there for me to test it? I'm hoping so because I would hate to have to waste $100. I know AutoZone and places can test alternators and some other parts, do you know if they test ignition switches some how?

You need to check it on your truck.
Get the wiring diagram and check for power in and power out on the 12 volt output wiring to everything the ign switch feeds.
A good 12 volt bulb type test light or a volt/ohm meter works good for testing.
Good luck
MT

Next time you have no dash lights, go under the steering column and look for a 10-12ga. Pink wire coming down the column to a juction block of 3 different connectors held together with a 10mm bolt.

Wiggle the pink wire, and your dash lights will come on.

Replace the switch, that's your problem.

No test equipment needed, the switch is toast.

Thanks for the input. I am trying to get the dash apart and look at the ignition switch. I am using the guide on here, but there is a part that I am at that I don't see in the guide. I am trying to get the plastic cover off that goes around the steering column. The problem is, it is loose and will come off, but the steering wheel tilt lever will not allow me to get it off because the slit in the cover will not fit over the end of the lever. How do I get this off without breaking anything? I cannot figure this out. I also see the pink wire that you are speaking of. I will try wiggling it whenever I get this piece off. Also, is the ignition switch the square box I am seeing with the bundle of wires coming from it? This is my first time replacing one of these. Thanks for all of your help.

Adam

Thanks for the input. I am trying to get the dash apart and look at the ignition switch. I am using the guide on here, but there is a part that I am at that I don't see in the guide. I am trying to get the plastic cover off that goes around the steering column. The problem is, it is loose and will come off, but the steering wheel tilt lever will not allow me to get it off because the slit in the cover will not fit over the end of the lever. How do I get this off without breaking anything? I cannot figure this out. I also see the pink wire that you are speaking of. I will try wiggling it whenever I get this piece off. Also, is the ignition switch the square box I am seeing with the bundle of wires coming from it? This is my first time replacing one of these. Thanks for all of your help.

Adam

The Knob on the tilt level pulls stright off. you may have to wiggle it up and down as you pull it off.

Yes, the black box with the harness is what you're after. It contains a bunch of contacts and springs that are actuated by the key. The pink wire is the main power supply to the box.

I got that part done. Now I've figured out that I'm going to have to take the whole steering wheel off to get the top cover off since it won't go over the big plastic part around where the key goes in. The guide on here says the he cut the plastic with a dremel tool which I want to avoid doing. I disconnected the airbag yellow wire and unhooked the ground cable from the battery. To get the airbag off the steering wheel, I turn the steering wheel so I can get to the 4 springs in the back. After I pop that off, I try to get my key back, but it won't go into the off position. I assumed when I started this that I didn't have the anti-theft feature on my radio. After looking at it, I realize that I do. I think this is what's keeping the key from going into the off position because my manual said to disable that before taking the steering wheel apart. However, I can't find anywhere in the manual where it says to disable this feature. Does anyone know what I can do now to get my key out? I tried hooking the battery back up, but that did nothing. I hope this isn't a bad problem.

Thanks,
Adam

On this vehicle, you need the battery connected to remove the key from the switch assembly. If you disconnected any wires, reconnect them.

Also, there is no need to cut the housing, or remove the steering wheel to get at the switch assembly. Right under the key opening is a rubber boot. Remove that boot so you can tilt the housing to the right as you remove it. Also, tilt the steering wheel all the way down. Be carefull around the 4 way flasher switch. If need be, you can remove the whole flasher switch by pulling it straight up (There's a post in the "How-To" section on this, check it out)

I've had mine apart twice, and I didn't cut anything. Nor did I remove the steering wheel.

Read the instructions I provided the link for. It's a very simple proceedure once you understand it. It took me less than an hour to do it the second time around (3 hours the first time), so be patient, and read, and re-read those instructions.

Okay, I'll try reconnecting the battery and the airbag wire when I get home today. Hopefully that will free my key. I tried reconnecting the battery and that didn't do anything, but I didn't try reconnecting the airbag wire.

I don't understand the explanation you gave just yet, but I will look at it when I get home. I don't know what rubber foot you're talking about, but hopefully I can find it once I'm messing with the car. I have the bottom of the housing removed and the top is completely unscrewed. The only thing that is stopping it from coming off is the plastic that goes around where you insert the key.

Yea, I was hoping there was an easier way because removing the steering wheel was going to suck.

Where is the link you provided? I don't see it. Thanks for all your help also.

Where is the link you provided? I don't see it. Thanks for all your help also.


http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=287636

Although, I think you've already looked at it, just read it over a few more times. I actually printed it out so I could have it right by the truck when I did mine the first time.

Disregard the part about cutting the cover.
When you try to remove it, spread it sideways while trying to remove it over the keyway. Remember to tilt the wheel all the way down, so you have more room to move the cover around.

edit; About the rubber boot under the key cylinder in the plastic shroud;

Just did one myself the same way, cut the plastic but found after moving the plastic around the cylinder the outer rubber on the key cylinder pops off and easily pops back on making my cut pointless but hey, I got er done!

Yea, I printed it out so I could have it out there also. However, I was having a hard time following it. I didn't want to cut my car at all either. Thanks for the help though. I was able to pull key cylinder out though and get the plastic housing off yesterday. Now all I need to do is buy the E3 socket to get those two bolts out. I thought I would have a metric socket small enough to fit it, but my smallest one was a 4mm. I was able to get the other E series sockets off by using a metric socket and they fit perfectly. I may try to find a smaller metric socket if I can't find the E series socket. I called the parts store a couple of days ago and the guy at the counter said he's been working parts counters for 27 years and he's never heard of an E series socket. I think I might take in the other E series bolt just to show him they exist, because I felt like he thought I didn't know what I was talking about or something. I tried wiggling the pink wire to get my dash lights to come, but I couldn't do it. Does that mean it's my ignition switch? Is there any other way to test so I don't have to blow $100 if it's not the problem? I don't know if the schematic is in the Haynes manual and I wouldn't know how to setup the test if there was. Thanks for all of your help.

I had a similar problem with my dash lights and guages. I would start the vehicle and it would take up to 15 seconds for the lights and guages to come on. Then a t some point it began to run poorly. Took it in (under warranty) and the battery had a dead cell. New battery-no problem. 3 years later- same problem- but more time and would just die. Bought new battery again. Starts right up-guages work immediately and runs fine. Sounds too simple, but has been a problem 2ce for me.

Does that mean it's my ignition switch? .

Yes, it's your switch.


The wrench you need is an TORX E4 torx socket bit.
I got mine at Napa, it's a long skinny 1/4" drive unit that was specifically labeled for GM/Cadillac "Ignition module tool"

I had a similar problem with my dash lights and guages. I would start the vehicle and it would take up to 15 seconds for the lights and guages to come on. Then a t some point it began to run poorly. Took it in (under warranty) and the battery had a dead cell. New battery-no problem. 3 years later- same problem- but more time and would just die. Bought new battery again. Starts right up-guages work immediately and runs fine. Sounds too simple, but has been a problem 2ce for me.

Then you have more than a battery problem. Once the truck starts, it runs off the alternator, not the battery.

If the battery was so weak that you didn't have dash lights, it certainly wouldn't provide enough power to crank the engine.

Update on the ignition switch replacement. I got the size E4 star socket from my girlfriend's uncle (he's a mechanic) and got the old one removed today. I installed the new one and it started right up. Everything is going good until I get everything back together. I walk to the back of my car to put my tools away and my brake lights are lit for some reason. Now, I can't find out what they are just staying lit. I have to disconnect the battery so it doesn't run down. When I press the brake, it blinks off and then comes back on and stays lit. Does anyone have any idea why this would be happening? I wouldn't even think the ignition switch would have anything to do with this, but I have no idea. Is it possible that I put the plug under the kick panel in upside down? I was worried about this whenever I was installing it because I wasn't sure which way it came out. I didn't know if it only went one way either. It seemed like it could go either way. Please help. I am so tired of working on my truck. Thanks for everyone's help on the ignition switch also.

Adam

Update on the ignition switch replacement. I got the size E4 star socket from my girlfriend's uncle (he's a mechanic) and got the old one removed today. I installed the new one and it started right up. Everything is going good until I get everything back together. I walk to the back of my car to put my tools away and my brake lights are lit for some reason. Now, I can't find out what they are just staying lit. I have to disconnect the battery so it doesn't run down. When I press the brake, it blinks off and then comes back on and stays lit. Does anyone have any idea why this would be happening? I wouldn't even think the ignition switch would have anything to do with this, but I have no idea. Is it possible that I put the plug under the kick panel in upside down? I was worried about this whenever I was installing it because I wasn't sure which way it came out. I didn't know if it only went one way either. It seemed like it could go either way. Please help. I am so tired of working on my truck. Thanks for everyone's help on the ignition switch also.

Adam

If the switch was in the wrong way, instead of starting, you'd be switching to Acc. instead. Just a guess, but as I recall, the box should only mount 1 way.

The brake lights are a different matter, not related to the switch.
But the brake switch is down in the area under the steering column.

The junction block that the switch harness connects to is made up of 3 connectors, the 2 outside connectors are single row units, while thecenter unit is double row pins (I think). I'd check those connections first.
The look at the top of the brake pedal and see if something happened to the switch itself.
Perhaps the plunger on the switch is off the pedal.


Good Luck.