97 max stalls

After replacing timing components, car stalls. I turn the key while giving it gas, and the engines idle would fluctuate. Eventually it would stall out. There is knocking sound at times.

Could this be the result of me putting to much cleaner solution into the lower intake chambers. It looks like the solution and grime is seeping out from the y-pipe.

I pulled the spark plugs and they were wet. Any ideas and or suggestions?

After replacing timing components ... me putting to much cleaner solution into the lower intake chambers. ... the solution and grime is seeping out from the y-pipe. ... the spark plugs and they were wet....

What lead into this, his tory before this timing job?

Cleaner doesnt hurt, the plugs should now be cleaned/dried.

Bad/no ignition = gas does not burn. Extended nostartup-crank (all six injectors inject gas simultaneously) causes flood in biblical proportions.

My guess - dont know what problem - is in here: "replacing timing components..." Check out wirings, grounding, then the timing with timing lamp (need spark wire extension), then get new components.

Because of timing chain noise I decided to go all out and replace: chain, sprockets, tensioners, guides, water pump, thermostat, belts.

It will start up quickly, but will idle rough into a complete shut down. I'll continue to start up, but battery is weak. I have to jumpstart after a few start ups.

It will run for about a minute, I can hear a loud knocking as if something is hitting the oil pan. although i think the sound is comming from the top.

Oh u mean cams/chain, not ignition, sorry... Is it possible that one cam/sprocket is now off mark? Tensioner loose? V6 engine would run badly with 3 cylinders, the other bank limping along... Four cylinder would be just about trying, never running (as/if cam timing was one tooth off), too bad I have got that experience...

I try starting it up today after cleaning the spark plugs yesterday. It seemed to idle smother without any knocking, but then again it was on for a few seconds before it stalled.

I try starting up three time it quickly stalled before battery went. I have to invest on a batt charger/starter.

I will continue to work and research a little bit more before going back and messing with the timing chain and its components. Who knows it could be a ignition problem. Right now there are no codes.

So if there's any one out there with a similar "solved" problem, please share. thanks

I checked the timing chain, there is some slack. It has skiped, color links do not line up. I notice that the Right side Intake Camshaft is not rotating.

What damage can this have cause to the engine (valves, lifters). The sprockets seem to be aligned, but that one camshaft is not moving.

I will be taking the chain out, don't know if camshaft can be fix and or aligned properly.

Damage: Valve stems may warp, pistons get holes... compression tst will give some info. Go buy 10$ pressure gauge, tst after getting timin chain properly aligned. All six cylinder pressures have to be nearly equal. ( In this case, any cylinder with low compression either has valve seating problem and/or hole in the piston.)

My best scenario -guess is that u have to take that head off, replace few valves. Nasty problem, just dont give up. Every mech has paid 'this fee'...

After evaluation check your options. Replacing pistons etc may cost more than getting 'new' low mileage engine.

Intake camshaft is broken at the end closest to sprockets. I`m going to remove head as you suggested to see if there is other damage.

I finished putting in the head gaskets and replacing the right hand cylinder head w/used 20k. After installing the timing chain I manually rotated, clockwise, the engine. I noticed that the colored links on the chain did not aligned with the marks on the sprockets. However the marks on the sprockets do match up with the timing marks on the case.

Q: Is this normal, for the colored links on the chain not to match up after starting out matching?

Cam / crank axles have to rotate always in sync, only their timing marks matter.
They match after each 2x crank axle rotation (if they match in installation, sprockets/chain are ok).

Everything is back together and car is running great. However the engine will stall when shifting (automatic) into reverse. Don't know where to begin on this old problem.

Will it stop? Stall means pwr loss - here may be caused by engine movement (when A/T is ok). Engine rotates always when gear is engaged. Reverse rotation direction is opposite/different: Take a look, hood up, smbdy exercising gear from D to R. Check all wiring(s) which may be moving (normally no problem, but if cause here is broken wire/connector).

Did you check your Idle screw? Maybe its set at too low...

The car would always either shut off imediatley after shifting to reverse or it will idle rough or hesitate then shut off. It has done it a few times while on drive and car coasting. Thank god i'm able to shift to Neautral and turn it back on.

I think it might have to do with the Idle Air Control Valve and or Idle adjustment like u suggested.

... a few times while on drive and car coasting. Thank god i'm able to shift to ...

Story changed 500% ...hmm... Pwr loss at idle can be 'anything'; ignition, IACV, air leak, wiring/contacts. IACV is dirty -and- may cause jam /work jerkily, after 60k.

By cleaning the MAF sensor I solved the shutting off on reverse and DTC 1320. It's been about three weeks now and the car is still running great.

MAF cannot differentiate between R -or- D ... But. Engine movement angle is opposite, maybe the 'moving' MAF attaching wiring/connector is now clean...