Need help!! 98 Rodeo won't start tried everything

I have a 98 Izuzu Rodeo, automatic, six cylinder. It won't start but I have full power, lights, horn, radio, everything. I took the starter out it it is okay, had the battery checked it is okay. Had it towed and mechanic said the gear shifter may not be in sync and would not start, after rocking the vehicle on the tow truck, might have fixed the problem, it started, no problem for two weeks did it again, won't start same problem. I also changed out the neutral safety switch on the tranny, thought that was the problem ($150.00 later) and it still won't start. No one seems to know what the problem is, even the mechanic didn't think it was the neutral safety switch. I have also tried to move the shifter back and forth while I have the key on. This worked for the mechanic after it had been rocked on the tow truck. I have rocked it also. I do notice the gear shift light indicator on the dash is not always in sync with the position on the console. The console may say drive 2 but the indicator light may not show up or it indicates P for park. Hope I have given enough info, first time on this forum. Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Tieguy

rereading this, in addition to what i wrote you on the ...zoo about installation,adjustment and hunting down a possible wiring short, also make sure you got the linkage connected back up correctly.

//bc

How do I check to if the linkage is hooked up correctly. It appears the one rod from the console cable to the switch only goes on one way, where it conects to the switch itself, as I mentioned in the other forum.
Thanks again,
Tieguy

I recently changed the small seal in the tranny behind the neutral safety switch. For whatever reason, to hook the manual linkage back on after replacing the seal, I had to put the gear selector in reverse to get the linkage back on. It went right back on. I then put it in Park to put the switch on. There was quite a bit of adjustment that could be made in the position of the switch, but my truck would start at either extreme - rotated fully clockwise or counterclockwise. Don't know if that will help you, but my guess is that the switch or linkage needs adjusting.

Took apart the neutral safety switch and cleaned all the contacts. Still not working. Also I have no backup lights, an indication something else might be wrong with the switch. I have another switch I put on from a wrecked rodeo and that didn't work either. Can't get a new one until Tuesday. I'm going to try and clean the contacts on that one and see if it works or if the backup lights work. The dash gear indicator lights seem to be in sync. Could it be something else. I had the starter and battery tested and both checked good. Can a starter check good at the auto parts store and still not be good?
Thanks again for all the replies,
Tieguy

Well, I cleaned the contacts on the used switch and put it on. Still won't start but now I have back up lights. What else could it be, I'm at my wits end until I can get it in the shop Monday. Hopefully someone out here will have a solution.
Thanks in advance for any help ,
Tieguy

Yes, the starter can test good at the parts store and still be bad. Reason being is the contacts in the Denso starters wear unevenly and the bench tester usually has more power and more easily makes the connection when the 12 volts from the battery may not. Jump starting it with a running vehicle may also help a starter with bad contacts. Running vehicle supplies 14+ volts while your battery supplies 12 volts.

Here's a site that sells contact kits for Denso starters and also has some good pics of the contacts.

http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Nippondenso.html

TrooperBC,
Your great knowledge should have paid off for me, but I guess I'm back to square one. I adjusted the neutral switch just like you describe, both of them and tried them both, no good results although the indicator lights and back up lights work fine. I would not have been able to get a new Neutral switch until Wednesday. Thought I would try one off of a tranny at the junkyard that was for resale. What the chances of two used ones being bad. I also cleaned all the contacts on the inside on both before I put them back on. No luck.
I went again to have the starter tested. Advanced Auto said it was good. O'Reilly's tested on their new machine and said it was bad. Got a new reman one and put it on. Kept my fingercrossed. Same thing, just clicking noise. Still have power to everything, checked all my fuses inside and out. All okay. Tested the starter switch in the hood fuse box, checked out okay. Well my mechanic shop is open tomorrow and the tow trucks are running. Unless some miracle happens between now and then, that's where it will be. Thanks again for all the time and effort you put into this, I'll let you know what the verdict is when I find out. That's the least I can do for your time.
Thanks,
Tieguy
And thanks to all others that replied

:) If the starter is clicking when you try to start it, thats usually a sign of low voltage. The two cause that I can think of for this would be a bad battery or cables, most people overlook the ground when checking wireing.:) Andie

Okay Guys I'm back
Bought a multi-meter but can't get it to work on anything, even a 12 volt battery.
I put an idiot lightmeter to the wiring going to the neutral safety switch. It lights up. What is interesting though when I put the light meter to the constant power wire going to the starter, it lights up until you turn the ignition. When you try to start the car the light goes out like the power shuts off to the starter. Could this ring up any new ideas in this NAPA troubleshooting contest?
Thanks again, if nothing tonight, the tow truck gets called tomorrow.
Tieguy

Okay, Latest and possibly last update.
I got my multimeter working. With the key off I'm pulling 11.8 volts to the starter, with the key on while attempting to start I'm pulling 11.2 volts at the starter. WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE UUUGGGHHH. :banghead:
Thanks to all,
Tieguy

Check you grounds and your battery cables. Try searching the internet for 'voltage drop test'. I can do them but have a hard time explaining it.

RODEO STARTS!!!! runaround :rofl:
Okay guys, First of all I want to thank everyone who helped me out on this.
The problem: After checking all of the cables again I took the idiot light and checked to see if everything that was suppose to be grounded in fact was. The negative ground from the battery to the engine block checked out good from the battery to the block, but when I checked the block, it turns out the motor wasn't grounded. Cleaned the connection and put it back on and it started. It turns out everything else that runs all the lights and accessories are grounded to the frame and that's why they all worked but the starter wouldn't because the motor wasn't grounded.
Thanks again, lesson learned for me and for future reference.
Again, thank you guys, it's people like you that keep this forum alive.
Tieguy
(Tom)

:banghead: Where was the ground located for the engine? I am haveing the same problem and the Honda techs think its a starter ignition switch. Where do they ground the engine? Help me please!!!
:feedback:

:) The engine ground is the main one, stright off the battery neg terimal. Andie:)

Follow the major cable from the negative post of the battery to the engine block, mine was a thin metal connector with two screws going into the block on the upper left side of the engine. Not hard to see or to get to. I replaced this connector about three years ago because normal vibration finally broke it in half and it wouldn't start then. Thought it was a starter but it wasn't, the engine just wasn't grounded. I replaced it with a heavy duty battery cable connector, worked fine and won't break again. This past problem was this connector but it was just not making a good ground. It was still tight and looked good. Grinded it off with a dremel , the connector and block for a good clean finish and it started right up.
Hope this helps,
Tieguy
Tom