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Oil for new engine...


bamadam
07-17-2007, 05:51 PM
Had a Jasper 5.7 longblock installed in my 95 Silverado 4X4 awhile back and truck runs great.

Now it is time for my first oil change and I was wondering what oil/weight to go with since the garage/Jasper had no specific recommendations??

MT-2500
07-17-2007, 06:51 PM
Had a Jasper 5.7 longblock installed in my 95 Silverado 4X4 awhile back and truck runs great.

Now it is time for my first oil change and I was wondering what oil/weight to go with since the garage/Jasper had no specific recommendations??


Over 0 degrees outside tempt book calls for 10w30 engine oil.
First few K miles 5W30 will get in the tight places a little better
What weight did you use to start with?
MT

abaird
07-17-2007, 09:44 PM
Any quality name brand oil will do fine. Just make sure you change it on a regular basis. I use Mobil 1 synthetic and I would recommend it but it is kind of pricy. But depending on your driving habits you can extend your intervals with synthetic oil.

'97ventureowner
07-17-2007, 09:59 PM
Any quality name brand oil will do fine. Just make sure you change it on a regular basis. I use Mobil 1 synthetic and I would recommend it but it is kind of pricy. But depending on your driving habits you can extend your intervals with synthetic oil.
Same here. I bought a 2006 Chevy Uplander last Fall and when it came time for my first oil change I opted to also use Mobil 1. Even though it may cost more,( Although I noticed the other day at Wal Mart the price had gone down to $19.92 from $23.88 the previous time.)the longer interval change actually makes the initial cost lower. I plan to keep the oil in the engine between 7500 to 10,000 miles with a filter only change and "top off" halfway in between. Using synthetics in my opinion can help lower our consumption of oil and eventually our dependency , and it also is easier on the environment <steps off soapbox>.

bamadam
07-18-2007, 06:43 AM
Over 0 degrees outside tempt book calls for 10w30 engine oil.
First few K miles 5W30 will get in the tight places a little better
What weight did you use to start with?
MT

I don't know what they used, that was kind of the point.

Synthetics were mainly what I was asking about. Never used them before and was wondering.

daman
07-18-2007, 08:13 AM
Since that engine is new and tight a good full synthetic 5w30 is what i would
use, if consumption becomes a issue go to a 10w30, Mobil-1,Amsoil is what
i use, also use any filter but FRAM there garbage..

i use 5w30 synthetic in all my cars/truck and change it out a 5k

taillight
07-18-2007, 09:35 AM
I have rebuilding engines for 40 years. Start with synthetic and stay with synthetic.

MT-2500
07-18-2007, 10:06 AM
As said symthetic is one of the best oils for extra lube and cold weather starts and real hot weather lubercation.

Also on regular oil Diesel oil like shell rotella has more lube additives like zinc and other stuff that has been removed from regular gasoline engine oil because of newer epa regulations.

On gas engines that still have the old style cam and lifters the diesel oil will give a little better lubercation.
Only problem is geting it it the lighter weighs.
Good luck
MT

bamadam
07-18-2007, 12:57 PM
Thanks for the advice folks.

First time I've ever heard anything bad about FRAM. Wassup??

MT-2500
07-18-2007, 01:06 PM
To put it plain Fam filters are junk.
Poor filtration elements.
And for the last 45 years Fram have gave poor oil pressure on GM engines.
And they are not getting any better.
AC Delco are low priced and good.
Wix and a few others major brands are good. to.
But anything is better than a Fram.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html
and
http://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/Motor%20Oil%20Engineers%20PDF.pdf
opens a pdf with Firefox


MT

daman
07-18-2007, 01:23 PM
Cut a FRAM open then say a WIX,AC,PureOne,M1, etc. just to name a few and
you'll see the difference,paper end caps and poor craftsmanship, there's more
too it but you get the idea..

'97ventureowner
07-18-2007, 01:43 PM
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.htmlhttp://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/Motor%20Oil%20Engineers%20PDF.pdf
MT
MT check that link you mentioned . I clicked on it and got this,"Not Found

The requested URL /~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.htmlhttp://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/Motor Oil Engineers PDF.pdf was not found on this server.

Additionally, a 403 Forbidden error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.
Otherwise I am very familiar with the first link that was mentioned and have even linked some of my other posts on this site to that study. If you did a search on this site you would see the issues with Fram filters. I exclusively use A C Delco filters in all my GM vehicles.

MT-2500
07-18-2007, 04:04 PM
MT check that link you mentioned . I clicked on it and got this,"Not Found

The requested URL /~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.htmlhttp://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/Motor Oil Engineers PDF.pdf was not found on this server.

Additionally, a 403 Forbidden error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.
Otherwise I am very familiar with the first link that was mentioned and have even linked some of my other posts on this site to that study. If you did a search on this site you would see the issues with Fram filters. I exclusively use A C Delco filters in all my GM vehicles.

97ventureowner

I recheked it and it only opens a pdf with Firefox for some reason.
explore goes haywire on that hit.:grinyes: :lol:
Sorry about that.
MT

bamadam
07-18-2007, 06:52 PM
So a synthetic 10W-30 (live in AL) with a Mobil 1 filter would do th job??

Show of hands?? :grinno:

daman
07-18-2007, 07:59 PM
Yes!!! use the HM(high mileage),if your going with M1, you can get it at
wall-mart, all there 5qt jugs are 19xx a gal. great deal..

sub006
08-23-2007, 03:35 AM
I'd recommend you use a quality 10W-30 conventional oil of your choice (I like Castrol GTX) for the initial start-up and 20 to 30 minute stationary break-in.

Change the oil and filter, then drive the truck for 2500 miles. The conventional oil allows more rapid initial wear which is desirable for break-in. It's really more of a polishing of the friction surfaces in the engine. When you change the oil and filter at 2500 miles, switch to a 5W-30 synthetic. After that I change at 7-8,000 mile intervals or at least once a year.

OSUCowboy27
08-23-2007, 02:13 PM
If full synthetics are too pricey for you, try TropArtic Synthetic Blend in a 5W-30 or 10W-30. It is about $1.68 a quart and a great oil.

I also agree that fram are certainly not what they used to be but I think they are fine for older engines ASA you change every 3K. I would not use one for oil change intervals greater than 3K. AC Delco filters are actually cheaper and better quality. The main thing I like about fram is the grip material at the bottom of the filter.

lapspec
08-25-2007, 07:22 PM
Since you already went through the initial oil change why settle for less get the best Amsoil. Only have to drain it once a year same with their new filters, one year or 25,000 miles whatever comes first. see www.synthetic-lubricants.com or amsoil.com

daman
08-25-2007, 07:37 PM
Since you already went through the initial oil change why settle for less get the best Amsoil. Only have to drain it once a year same with their new filters, one year or 25,000 miles whatever comes first. see www.synthetic-lubricants.com or amsoil.com
I agree Amsoil is good but.......with out doing a UOA part way through the O/C i would not
just jump into doing a 25,000 mile o/c, all cars trucks behave differently and wear oil's out
at different rates. start off slow with maybe a 6-8,000 o/c and go up from there.

i love using Mobil-1 and do 7-9,000 O/C's with ease, could go longer but
i don't..

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