2000 T&C Electrical Problems
Natewin
07-16-2007, 04:12 PM
My wife arrived home the other night and let me know that the 2000 Chrysler Town and Country had the following symptoms:
Radio won't power on. (lights on radio work)
Interior lights don't come on when doors open (they do work with the switch @ the headlamp controls)
Power locks don't work unless the key is in the run position.
RKE doesn't work.
I've checked all the fuses in the car and under the hood, none are blown. All of these items were in good working order hours earlier in the day. The 1st indication that there was a problem was that the radio wouldn't turn back on after being turned off.
These forums have been great in helping me diagnose a rear wheel brake cylinder leaking, hopefully I can figure out this issue as well.
Radio won't power on. (lights on radio work)
Interior lights don't come on when doors open (they do work with the switch @ the headlamp controls)
Power locks don't work unless the key is in the run position.
RKE doesn't work.
I've checked all the fuses in the car and under the hood, none are blown. All of these items were in good working order hours earlier in the day. The 1st indication that there was a problem was that the radio wouldn't turn back on after being turned off.
These forums have been great in helping me diagnose a rear wheel brake cylinder leaking, hopefully I can figure out this issue as well.
webbch
07-16-2007, 05:04 PM
Given the multitude of sudden problems that appear to be on different circuits, I would first be looking toward the battery - to verify that it was at or very near 12.5 volts. Anything below 12.2 or so and you probably have a weak or dead battery.
The best way is to load test the battery. I recently had a bad battery on my T&C cause a whole host of electrical quirkiness. The voltage checked out right at 12.5 volts, but voltage drooped down to below 7.5 volts upon application of any load. After charging for about 16 hours, it had 11.5 volts (Huh?). Replaced the battery, and I was good to go.
The best way is to load test the battery. I recently had a bad battery on my T&C cause a whole host of electrical quirkiness. The voltage checked out right at 12.5 volts, but voltage drooped down to below 7.5 volts upon application of any load. After charging for about 16 hours, it had 11.5 volts (Huh?). Replaced the battery, and I was good to go.
Natewin
11-26-2007, 03:30 PM
Thanks for the reply. The battery was on its way out so I replaced it but this did not help solve the problem.
I don't have a wiring diagram for the car but I was able to get everything working by doing the following. Perhaps someone who has a diagram could help me trace things back to where the problem is.
I pulled the radio and was able to check the connector at the back. The ACC power (when the key is on) works fine. Actually everything going to / from the radio works fine except for the pink wire which is bat+. Bat+ provides 12v all the time to give the radio voltage for remembering presets and clock time.
As a temporary fix, to see if the radio worked, I jumpered between ACC and Bat+. This allowed me to turn on the radio and all worked fine with the ignition on. Turning the ignition off turns off the radio and wipes the time / presets b/c there is no constant power.
To fix the radio so that it works as it should I ran a 12v+ from the relay panel fused with a 3amp fuse inline to the bat+ pink wire at the back of the radio. This allows for normal radio function now as well as the RKE and door lights / locks when key off are all back-fed down the pink wire to their respective locations.
For now things are working as they should but obviously not ideally. The 3amp fuse not blowing tells me that whatever caused this failure probably didn't pull too much current and blow something and I am not worried b/c the system is protected by the 3amp fuse.
Can someone take a look and see where the pink wire goes and where it could possibly fail to provide power to the radio / rke / interior lights (when the door opens)
When I do open / close the doors I do hear the relay fire (the bottom right relay # 13 I think) it did not operate when the radio / RKE / Door lock / light problem was happening. The power running down the pink wire seems to solve my problems for now.
Thanks again,
Nathan
I don't have a wiring diagram for the car but I was able to get everything working by doing the following. Perhaps someone who has a diagram could help me trace things back to where the problem is.
I pulled the radio and was able to check the connector at the back. The ACC power (when the key is on) works fine. Actually everything going to / from the radio works fine except for the pink wire which is bat+. Bat+ provides 12v all the time to give the radio voltage for remembering presets and clock time.
As a temporary fix, to see if the radio worked, I jumpered between ACC and Bat+. This allowed me to turn on the radio and all worked fine with the ignition on. Turning the ignition off turns off the radio and wipes the time / presets b/c there is no constant power.
To fix the radio so that it works as it should I ran a 12v+ from the relay panel fused with a 3amp fuse inline to the bat+ pink wire at the back of the radio. This allows for normal radio function now as well as the RKE and door lights / locks when key off are all back-fed down the pink wire to their respective locations.
For now things are working as they should but obviously not ideally. The 3amp fuse not blowing tells me that whatever caused this failure probably didn't pull too much current and blow something and I am not worried b/c the system is protected by the 3amp fuse.
Can someone take a look and see where the pink wire goes and where it could possibly fail to provide power to the radio / rke / interior lights (when the door opens)
When I do open / close the doors I do hear the relay fire (the bottom right relay # 13 I think) it did not operate when the radio / RKE / Door lock / light problem was happening. The power running down the pink wire seems to solve my problems for now.
Thanks again,
Nathan
Stretch58
11-26-2007, 08:16 PM
Thanks for the reply. The battery was on its way out so I replaced it but this did not help solve the problem.
I don't have a wiring diagram for the car but I was able to get everything working by doing the following. Perhaps someone who has a diagram could help me trace things back to where the problem is.
I pulled the radio and was able to check the connector at the back. The ACC power (when the key is on) works fine. Actually everything going to / from the radio works fine except for the pink wire which is bat+. Bat+ provides 12v all the time to give the radio voltage for remembering presets and clock time.
As a temporary fix, to see if the radio worked, I jumpered between ACC and Bat+. This allowed me to turn on the radio and all worked fine with the ignition on. Turning the ignition off turns off the radio and wipes the time / presets b/c there is no constant power.
To fix the radio so that it works as it should I ran a 12v+ from the relay panel fused with a 3amp fuse inline to the bat+ pink wire at the back of the radio. This allows for normal radio function now as well as the RKE and door lights / locks when key off are all back-fed down the pink wire to their respective locations.
For now things are working as they should but obviously not ideally. The 3amp fuse not blowing tells me that whatever caused this failure probably didn't pull too much current and blow something and I am not worried b/c the system is protected by the 3amp fuse.
Can someone take a look and see where the pink wire goes and where it could possibly fail to provide power to the radio / rke / interior lights (when the door opens)
When I do open / close the doors I do hear the relay fire (the bottom right relay # 13 I think) it did not operate when the radio / RKE / Door lock / light problem was happening. The power running down the pink wire seems to solve my problems for now.
Thanks again,
Nathan
As far as I can tell, the pink wire comes from fuse 15, a 10A fuse in the Power Distribution Center under the hood.
I don't have a wiring diagram for the car but I was able to get everything working by doing the following. Perhaps someone who has a diagram could help me trace things back to where the problem is.
I pulled the radio and was able to check the connector at the back. The ACC power (when the key is on) works fine. Actually everything going to / from the radio works fine except for the pink wire which is bat+. Bat+ provides 12v all the time to give the radio voltage for remembering presets and clock time.
As a temporary fix, to see if the radio worked, I jumpered between ACC and Bat+. This allowed me to turn on the radio and all worked fine with the ignition on. Turning the ignition off turns off the radio and wipes the time / presets b/c there is no constant power.
To fix the radio so that it works as it should I ran a 12v+ from the relay panel fused with a 3amp fuse inline to the bat+ pink wire at the back of the radio. This allows for normal radio function now as well as the RKE and door lights / locks when key off are all back-fed down the pink wire to their respective locations.
For now things are working as they should but obviously not ideally. The 3amp fuse not blowing tells me that whatever caused this failure probably didn't pull too much current and blow something and I am not worried b/c the system is protected by the 3amp fuse.
Can someone take a look and see where the pink wire goes and where it could possibly fail to provide power to the radio / rke / interior lights (when the door opens)
When I do open / close the doors I do hear the relay fire (the bottom right relay # 13 I think) it did not operate when the radio / RKE / Door lock / light problem was happening. The power running down the pink wire seems to solve my problems for now.
Thanks again,
Nathan
As far as I can tell, the pink wire comes from fuse 15, a 10A fuse in the Power Distribution Center under the hood.
Natewin
11-26-2007, 10:12 PM
Well, I've checked all fuses in the car and under the hood. Maybe the terminals where it plugs in are corroded or something. Thanks for taking a look, I'll get in there and see if it is the one I need to address.
Where were you able to find that out?
Thanks again!
Where were you able to find that out?
Thanks again!
Stretch58
11-27-2007, 11:33 AM
Well, I've checked all fuses in the car and under the hood. Maybe the terminals where it plugs in are corroded or something. Thanks for taking a look, I'll get in there and see if it is the one I need to address.
Where were you able to find that out?
Thanks again!
I've got a 2000 Service Manual Nate. Good luck on the problem.
Where were you able to find that out?
Thanks again!
I've got a 2000 Service Manual Nate. Good luck on the problem.
TexacoKid
12-28-2007, 03:12 PM
Natewin,
I was reading through the automotive forums and came across your problems with T&C radio. I have the same problem and was going to try your 12+ wire to the pink wire. Was curious if this is still working for you or if you have found further details of the cause for radio not working (lights on radio on).
thanks
TexacoKid
I was reading through the automotive forums and came across your problems with T&C radio. I have the same problem and was going to try your 12+ wire to the pink wire. Was curious if this is still working for you or if you have found further details of the cause for radio not working (lights on radio on).
thanks
TexacoKid
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