95 Passport Rear ABS and Brake light on Panel

We have a 95 passport that the brakes needed to be done on. We just did the rear and front this weekend, calipers on rear also. We can't get the RABS and Brake lights on the cluster panel to turn off now. We did like the Haynes manual suggested and disconnected the negative battery terminal to clear the error code, that didn't work. We then removed the fuse, that also did not work. Took it up to have the code read and the guy couldn't find the computer panel to plug into. We looked in the book and it looks as though it is just under the driver side dash by the kicker panel, but there is no port to connect to, any idea how to get the code or how to clear the RABS and brake lights without having to pay a shop to clear them? Or is anyone else have the same issue and found it was something more than just clearing the code out? Thanks!

The port is under the drivers side dash - for the 95.5-97 Rodeo's. I'm not sure where your's is for a '95 Rodeo. Sounds like you have the OBD I, whereas the 95.5 Rodeo's have the OBD II

Irregardless, I can almost guarantee that those lights - even though the brakes were bad, have nothing to do with your brakes. I ran around on real low rear brake pads for a few weeks, didn't know it, and that light never came on. BUT, it surely does when my alternator's dying.

Test the volts running across your alternator with the truck running and a/c; radio, etc ON - if the volts are anything less then 14V, she's dying on you.

When you got to get a new alternator do NOT use just any reman alternator, or you will be repeating the process within a few days; you need to get either a BOSCH, Napa, or OEM Isuzu, expect to pay about $175+

Report back here if you will what your volts are UNDER load

The port is under the drivers side dash - for the 95.5-97 Rodeo's. I'm not sure where your's is for a '95 Rodeo. Sounds like you have the OBD I, whereas the 95.5 Rodeo's have the OBD II


Sorry Ramblin, that is not correct.

The 1995.5 Rodeo is still OBD I, I wish it were different.

I have to jump pins 1 to 3 on the ALDL connector to read the engine codes using the check engine light.

From OBDII.com-

All cars and light trucks built and sold in the United States after January 1, 1996 were required to be OBD II equipped. In general, this means all 1996 model year cars and light trucks are compliant, even if built in late 1995.

Two factors will show if your vehicle is definitely OBD II equipped:
1) There will be an OBD II connector as shown below (there is a diagram on the website showing a 16 pin connector), and
2) There will be a note on a sticker or nameplate under the hood: "OBD II compliant".

http://www.obdii.com/connector.html#dates


Good Luck,
Dale

Check your brake light bulbs, make sure one isnt burnt out. Also check to make sure the connections for them are clean. ABS and brake light both on at the same time usually ends up being a blown brake light bulb or bad ABS sensor on the rear if there are no other odd things happening as well.

Not sure where the connector is in OBD I vehicles

*thumps Ramblin for continuing to to say 'irregardless' {cringe}.* LOL

Not sure where the connector is in OBD I vehicles



Behind the Driver's side kick panel at the floor on the left.

First, be sure there is enough clean brake fluid in the master cylinder. Be sure that your brake lights are not burned out, as Dave has suggested. Also, check your voltage output under load as Ramblin has mentioned.

After reading up on this a little bit, I have discovered that the electronic brake module (EBCM) will store a code (one only) as long as the key is turned on. When the key is turned off, the code is lost.

The electronic brake module will light the rRABS and the "brake" light when a problem in the system is found. Unfortunately, the diagnostic procedure is very complicated.

There is a one pin diagnostic connector behind the driver's side kick panel at the floor. Briefly ground this connector to read the code using the rRABS light. The code count will point the technician in the right direction. On the other hand there are failures that can occur in this system which will not set a code (sigh).

I also read that the Rear wheel anti-lock brake valve (located on the passenger side of the engine compartment) has a switch on it to reset the EBCM. This component has a black rubber "boot" on the front of it which I can depress, but I cannot tell you for sure that this is the reset switch mentioned in the service manual or a cover for something else.

If you are not mechanically inclined the best bet is to take it to a trusted shop for service.

Let us know what you find.....


Dale

I also found that the Rear wheel anti-lock brake valve (located on the passenger side of the engine compartment) has a switch on it to reset the electronic brake module. This component has a black rubber "boot" on the front of it which I can depress, but I cannot tell you for sure that this is the reset switch mentioned in the service manual or a cover for something.

I removed the rubber boot and did not find a switch.

The genuine Isuzu service manual indicates there is a reset switch on the anti-lock brake valve, but it doesn't exist on my Rodeo.


Dale

Me bad - sorry, on both accounts.

I ran into this problem a few years back. I found out that the sensor wire to the ABS sensor on the rear differential was corroded at the connector points ALONG the wire path.

I traced the wire and I found that it is not a continuous line, but rather is spliced at several points along the passenger side underneath the body. By reseating the wires, I was able to remove the ABS check light.

The symptoms I had was that when you start the car, the lights are out, but after driving for a short while the rear ABS check light would come on.

Still get it intermittently after checking wires, harnesses, and changing the ABS sensor in the rear differential. Living with it now. Some have gotten rid of it with a new ABS module.

I ran into this problem a few years back. I found out that the sensor wire to the ABS sensor on the rear differential was corroded at the connector points ALONG the wire path.

I traced the wire and I found that it is not a continuous line, but rather is spliced at several points along the passenger side underneath the body. By reseating the wires, I was able to remove the ABS check light.

The symptoms I had was that when you start the car, the lights are out, but after driving for a short while the rear ABS check light would come on.

This is exactly what I am having. Can you give me a heads up at all where I might find that wire. Conversely, I think my alternator took a crap yesterday after doing some puddle jumping, so I am curious to the people who had this problem, but traced it to an alternator?

i have the same problem, when i jumped the wire it read high pressure switch. anyone know where this is located?