2001 Rodeo Sp-Evap Readiness-NYS Inspection FAILED

Hello all,
This is my first post and I have to say that I am very happy I found this site(actually Ryan has a site that has helped me and a link was there)
Anyway I just replaced the 'y'pipe,bank 1 cat-b1 hos2,muffler and tail pipe.those were the obvious.Still ran lousy changed the fuel press regulator(went bad once before)fuel filter, air filter,spark plugs turns out it was intake manifold gasket again-115K mi. now,some vac hoses.Also cleaned EGR and new gasket,PCV,cleaned all intake stuff and injectors.
So now my 2001, 3.2L, Rodeo Sport, auto tranny, is running like a champ,NYS inspection FAILED,no dtc codes set or pending.
The paperwork indicates that Catalyst Readiness and Evap Readiness failed on the emissions part of the NYS Inspection.
I just went through a 16 part driving/stop& idle sequence to get all the sensors responding.
My OTC Nemesis scannner is telling me that I still have a problem with the 'Evaporative Emissions-Not Ready'
So I am going insane,Has anyone else had this problem?
I also checked the vac duty solenoid which is by the intake.I believe this is all I have done,my 10 day extension expires tomorrow which will leave my GF without legal wheels.
Any help will be greatly appreciated!!Thanks by the way I have a shop manual on CD but it relies on a tech 2 scanner and I have no DTC to work with.Thanks again,Steamfitter

Was that engine good and hot; i.e driven for at least 30 min or so before inspection??

Yeah Man,wish it was that easy,thanks anyway

i see the ""'Evaporative Emissions-Not Ready'"" scanner hit, and the NYstate inspection hit: "" Evap Readiness failed ""
but i don't see anything in your list of things you did that indicates you did any checking of that system? have you? what?

and secondly, combined with the Evap stuff, you do mention that you did do "" some vac hoses "". is it possible you got the evap hoses on wrong?

//bc

From the NYVIP site..

Some non-continuous monitors require two drive cycles to complete testing due to the need for a cool down and warm up periods in between.
From the FSM..

Several of the
enhanced EVAP system diagnostic sub-tests are
dependent upon correct fuel level information. The
diagnostic will not run when the tank is less than 15%
or more than 85% full.
The canister is purged by PCM
control when the engine coolant temperature is over 60
C
(140
F), the IAT reading is over 10
C (50
F), and the
engine has been running.

The output is commanded when
the appropriate conditions have been met. These
conditions are:

The engine is fully warmed up.

The engine has been running for a specified time.

The IAT reading is above 10
C (50
F).

Thats about all I could find. Hope something in there helps.

Just a thought - I've had more then one vehicle fail simply because I drove straight from the house to the emissions place, not giving it enough time to get really hot.

additionally on the evap....

did you run through the tshoot diagnostic chart in the manual, perhaps pages ~6E-124

Evaporative (EVAP) Emissions Canister Purge Valve Check

?


//bc

First off thanks in advance.
Trooperbc,anything is possible but in this case I did try switching them,the hoses were from intake to solenoid to canister.So it really should not matter this valve is open or closed with no check valve.
Also I did check that valve operation(duty) and it worked plus there was current feed to the connector.The other is a vent valve which worked when tested I got rained out before testing the harness.
Gizmo,thanks I will be sure to keep the fuel level within those parameters.She drove 15 miles in 90'F+ temps to the station,should be warm enough.
So with that Ramblin'Fever I am willing to rule out not up to temp.
Trooper I don't have the physical manual-it is on CD so I don't know the page #'s but my setback there was that I do not have a tech2 scanner which Isuzu relies on for all diagnostics.It was too expensive,well over $3000 when I looked.I am using an OTC Nemesis.
So I plan to trace the lines they go from hose to steel lines back to hose at the canister,I did blow some air through and it seemed like there was too much resistance.
So after verifying that I have the correct line I will look for a blockage all the way down the run of tubing.
Since there is no DTC I am inclined to think it is something small and illusive.
Thanks for all of your input,It has helped already!!I will inspect the whole series of components right back to the gas cap.
I am determined to solve this and I can't wait to share what I learn.This is a great site wish I found it sooner.SFrunaround :banghead: :screwy:

...Trooper I don't have the physical manual-it is on CD so I don't know the page #'s but my setback there was that I do not have a tech2 scanner which Isuzu relies on for all diagnostics....

okay, but i'm looking at a pdf version and it ought to be on your cd. it's a 3-pager. p1 has a nice schematic to show you *all* the components of the system. pp2-3 has a 15-point step-by-step diagnostic that only relies on the TECH2 for one of those steps. i think it would help you. it's in the Driveability and Emissions Section, of course.
Evaporative (EVAP) Emissions Canister Purge Valve Check



good luck.

//bc

Trooper,I found the diagnostics you mentioned,I am going to get a vacuum pump now.I checked the solenoid valve for action but not to see if it seats properly.Thanks for taking the time to help.Let you know how it goes,SF

Hello Trooper and all of you that have helped,
Looks like the canister solenoid may be my problem-It should be normally closed and it is wide open.
They are calling it 'EVAP Canister Vent Solenoid' or 'Vent Solenoid Cut Valve' in my shop manual.
I am going to try and get one now,we'll see.SF

Update upon further inspection I found this valve to be nomally open-it closes when energized,this means I have yet to find the source of my problems.
Keep trying,I tell myself.SF

Trooper step # 8 in the chart is giving me trouble.
If the vac gauge is hooked up like they say it will be monitoring the intake manifold-press./vac.In doing that I had 15-17in/Hg but wer'e looking for 1 in./hg available at solenoid.
So am I supposed to go through the solenoid for this test?Seems like the only way to get the correct reading.This manual is full of incomplete sentences and broken English,so maybe I missed something.I plan to try testing through the solenoid as soon as this thunderstorm is over.SF

My manual says to look for 10 in. of vacuum. I guess meaning at least 10.

1. Turn the ignition “OFF”.
2. At the throttle body, install a vacuum gauge where
the hose from the purge solenoid was disconnected
for testing.
3. Start the engine.
4. Stabilize the engine speed at about 2500 RPM.
5. Momentarily snap the throttle open and let it return
to idle.
Is there approximately 10 in. Hg (34 kPa) of vacuum
available at the EVAP emission canister purge solenoid?


Circuit Description
Canister purge is controlled by a solenoid valve that
allows manifold vacuum to purge the canister. The
powertrain control module (PCM) supplies a ground to
energize the solenoid valve (purge “ON”). The EVAP
purge solenoid control is pulse-width modulated (PWM)
or turned “ON” and “OFF” several times a second. The
duty cycle (pulse width) is determined by engine
operating conditions including load, throttle position,
coolant temperature and ambient temperature. The duty
cycle is calculated by the PCM and the output is
commanded when the appropriate conditions have been
met.
The EVAP purge vacuum switch is a normally closed
switch positioned in the purge line between the canister
and to EVAP purge solenoid. The EVAP purge vacuum
switch will open when vacuum increases to greater than 5
inches of water in the purge line. The PCM monitors the
EVAP purge vacuum switch signal to determine if the
evaporative emission control system is working properly.
If the switch is open (purge flow detected) when the PCM
is not commanding the EVAP purge solenoid “ON”, DTC
P1441 will be set.
Looks to me like the solenoid should be normally closed by that description. Says the pcm supplies a ground to energize it for an ON cycle. There should be 2 solenoids. One is vent, the other is purge. The vent solenoid should be normally open, closes when energized.

This info is all from pages 6E2–478 thru 6E2-80 in my manual.

Trooper step # 8 in the chart is giving me trouble.
If the vac gauge is hooked up like they say it will be monitoring the intake manifold-press./vac.In doing that I had 15-17in/Hg but wer'e looking for 1 in./hg available at solenoid.
So am I supposed to go through the solenoid for this test?Seems like the only way to get the correct reading.This manual is full of incomplete sentences and broken English,so maybe I missed something.I plan to try testing through the solenoid as soon as this thunderstorm is over.SF like gizmo said and pasted. that measurement is to make sure you have adequate vacuum available to the valve. they reference in the instructions iirc to test at the tb port that you took the hose off in the first step. you could also measure it at the hose end you take off the valve (not through the valve), which i guess might be even better to make sure the hose isn't plugged or open somehow.

//bc

Gizmo pointed out another typo-10"hg not 1"hg,big difference.After going through everything I believe the Vac sol. is functioning properly.
Also the vent sol. is normally open and appears to work properly when energized.
So now I am looking for a test for the vent solenoid,I can't find it on this disc.
I read somewhere that there is a pressure transmitter of some sort in the fuel tank if so is it related to the function of the evap. emissions?
What is making this tougher is that there are no DTC's set.
I am guessing that both sol.s would be in the closed position until the pcm calls for a purge then both open? or is it opposite (vent closes to pull vapor from tank?)
Thanks CArl

OK I have not been able to get the catalyst or evap emissions to give me a 'ready' on the scanner but my GF went to a different shop and was told the others guys didn't know what they were doing(to be expected)but they also said to leave the car for an hour and they would check it out.
She grabbed a bit to eat and came back and had a new sticker on the car!Done.
But they wrote they cleared the codes and reset the computer on the receipt,fine except there were no codes and it fails readiness on my scanner.
So you know where we will take it next year!Whatever they did works for me although I would like to understand more.
So a big thanks to all of you who responded and helped me through I got GREAT feedback and learned alot,What a great site!Thanks again,Carl

Sorry for not getting back sooner,my problem was solved by someone who knew how to test the vehicle and slapped a new sticker on.We now go there for inspections.
Thanks to all for valuable input,SF