Known problems
dcmaynard
07-07-2007, 11:10 AM
I am thinking about buying a Wrangler 2000 or newer. I am wanting to find out if there are any known problems with them that I should look for.
Ray H
07-07-2007, 12:00 PM
I am thinking about buying a Wrangler 2000 or newer. I am wanting to find out if there are any known problems with them that I should look for.
Differencial leaks, rear main leak, valve cover leak, the seam at the top of the radiator may leak, exhaust header cracks (I think they fixed that one in 2000 with a bellows type of isolator on the header).
Nothing else stands out. Just check it out like you would any other vehicle, you know, the basics.
Differencial leaks, rear main leak, valve cover leak, the seam at the top of the radiator may leak, exhaust header cracks (I think they fixed that one in 2000 with a bellows type of isolator on the header).
Nothing else stands out. Just check it out like you would any other vehicle, you know, the basics.
Kuhn
07-09-2007, 10:42 AM
Differencial leaks, rear main leak, valve cover leak, the seam at the top of the radiator may leak, exhaust header cracks (I think they fixed that one in 2000 with a bellows type of isolator on the header).
Nothing else stands out. Just check it out like you would any other vehicle, you know, the basics.
Very true, and look out for the Wranglers that have already been lifted. You'll never know how much abuse it saw. I bought one that had about a 3'' lift from just springs and shocks and 33's... Obviously nothing to help adjust the driveline for this angle. About 3 months after buying the Jeep, before I really had a chance to get under the Wrangler, the clutch and trans both died at once.
Also, if you can afford a Rubicon, it's not a bad way to go. They have Dana 44s front and rear... Depending on your goal, this could give you a better starting point. That's my :2cents: Enjoy!
Nothing else stands out. Just check it out like you would any other vehicle, you know, the basics.
Very true, and look out for the Wranglers that have already been lifted. You'll never know how much abuse it saw. I bought one that had about a 3'' lift from just springs and shocks and 33's... Obviously nothing to help adjust the driveline for this angle. About 3 months after buying the Jeep, before I really had a chance to get under the Wrangler, the clutch and trans both died at once.
Also, if you can afford a Rubicon, it's not a bad way to go. They have Dana 44s front and rear... Depending on your goal, this could give you a better starting point. That's my :2cents: Enjoy!
dfmote
07-27-2007, 11:26 AM
On my 2006 Wrangler its had multiple water leaks from rain. Brakes went out .. manufacture defect brake line not flanged correctly, had to have the steering damper changed and control arm ... both manufacture problems.
scoobytuff
08-10-2007, 01:46 PM
The 2000 year model is when they fixed the exhaust problem, my Jeep is a 99 and I had to replace the exhaust manifold on it. Interior leaks are a good one to look for. They are easy to fix, but you may want to look under the carpet for any signs of rust. Leaky seals are also a problem as stated by Ray H. I love my Jeep but I do have to work on it some. They will nickel and dime you to death. The problems you have usually don't keep them from running they are just annoying.
dfmote
08-20-2007, 04:25 PM
Just
Empty
Every
Pocket
Empty
Every
phreaq
08-24-2007, 04:43 AM
My 2K TJ has over 70k and i bought it at 60k
Front left sway bar link was broken. So, I removed the whole front sway bar assembly.
Left side freeze plug had a leak. Lucky for me it was the rear so i didn't have to remove the exhaust manifold.
(You can see the freeze plug when you look through the left front wheel well at the block, it's a good place to check for a leak. I was told if they leak coolant, there is the most common place.)
Where the exhaust manifold meets the header pipe; one of the studs is striped and will not allow the nut to tighten all the way. It causes a rattle during decel and certain times under load around 2k-3k rpms.
(I will either replace the stud or remove both studs, drill out the threads, and install grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts)
The 2" body lift mine came with makes the cup holder (behind the 4WD select) mostly useless.
2nd gear slams into whatever is put there.
Front diff has slight seepage from the gasket and the input seal. I'll get to it soon
Other than the freeze plug and tightening the exhaust every so often, no complaints/regrets.
Been wheelin 3 times so far in it's first year with me, I look forward to many many more.
Front left sway bar link was broken. So, I removed the whole front sway bar assembly.
Left side freeze plug had a leak. Lucky for me it was the rear so i didn't have to remove the exhaust manifold.
(You can see the freeze plug when you look through the left front wheel well at the block, it's a good place to check for a leak. I was told if they leak coolant, there is the most common place.)
Where the exhaust manifold meets the header pipe; one of the studs is striped and will not allow the nut to tighten all the way. It causes a rattle during decel and certain times under load around 2k-3k rpms.
(I will either replace the stud or remove both studs, drill out the threads, and install grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts)
The 2" body lift mine came with makes the cup holder (behind the 4WD select) mostly useless.
2nd gear slams into whatever is put there.
Front diff has slight seepage from the gasket and the input seal. I'll get to it soon
Other than the freeze plug and tightening the exhaust every so often, no complaints/regrets.
Been wheelin 3 times so far in it's first year with me, I look forward to many many more.
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