'99 Explorer parking brake
dlw
07-06-2007, 08:59 PM
I had my brakes checked before I purchased the car and shop said 80% left on both front and rear. However, the parking brake won't hold the car even on the slightest grade. It feels normal when I apply the park brake but it just doesn't hold. Any ideas?
RickMN
07-06-2007, 11:12 PM
Rear brakes and or parking brake cable needs adjustment.
dlw
07-07-2007, 02:25 PM
Thank you, I really thought that if it needed adjustment, the pedal would feel looser and go down further, but I bought a manual yesterday and will follow your suggestion.
xFatcatx
07-17-2007, 11:03 AM
I have a 99 Sport 4WD, if your e-brake is the same setup as mine its very simple. Pull your rear drivers side tire off. You will see two cables running along the frame to the left of the rotor. Each cable runs to one wheel of the truck (rear driver/passenger) behind the rotors. Look behind the the rotor from the top side and you will see a small hook that the cable latches to. These sometimes come off. If it is unhooked just have some slowly press and let off the e-brake so you can re-hook it. Try the "free" stuff first! Make sure you have it jacked and supported/wheels blocked good as you will be underneath:)
xFatcatx
07-17-2007, 11:04 AM
I didnt realize how old this post was, if you already fixed it please update so there are answers for everybody else.
shorod
07-17-2007, 10:57 PM
I guess I don't consider this post all that old, so I'll post a response.
Your rear brakes are disc brake setups, right? The parking brake is a separate drum brake assembly within the rotor hat. This drum brake assembly is strictly for the parking brake, and therefore is adjusted independently from the disc brake system.
-Rod
Your rear brakes are disc brake setups, right? The parking brake is a separate drum brake assembly within the rotor hat. This drum brake assembly is strictly for the parking brake, and therefore is adjusted independently from the disc brake system.
-Rod
xFatcatx
07-18-2007, 09:23 AM
You are 100% correct shorod. I am reffering to the e-brake cable that often comes unlatched from the back of the rotor that connects to the drums. For adjustment there is a plug on the back of the brake assembly that you just pop out. I beileve its a torques bit. Other than that replaceing the e-brake shoes is next, assuming its never been done and assuming he has around 100,000 on it would probably not be a bad idea. If thats the case I have a link to putting new shoes on with pictures. Like I said I prefer the easy stuff first:)
dlw
07-18-2007, 06:10 PM
Thank you all for the suggestions, I will get at it this weekend. Sorry to be so slow to respond, my son had some major surgery and it has occupied a lot of my time lately.
xFatcatx
07-24-2007, 03:06 PM
I pulled my e-shoes off this weekend to replace them since my cable came unhooked again. I have a stuck/rusted/frozen e-brake lever in the open position. Hence the cable coming off. Just wanted to let know if you have the same problem. If that is not your problem, pull your rear rotors off, the adjuster is on the bottom of the shoe assembley. Try adjusting them some before you tear into them. Just dont do it to much. You will know when you put your rotor back on if you adjusted wrong, if the rotor goes on to tight you will know you adjusted to much.....etc.
fraxinusalba
07-26-2007, 03:16 PM
If you just purchased the vehicle recently, I'd go ahead and pull both rear rotors to clean and inspect everything. The e-brake lever could be sticking as mentioned above. There could also be excess dirt/dust or grease in the e-brake drum or the adjuster could be stuck and self adjuster not working. If previous owner didn't use the e-brake much, the workings could be gummed up or rusty. Unless someone was driving around with the e-brake on, you shouldn't have to replace the shoes since they get almost no wear. My 99 Explorer has 150K miles and the e-brake shoe linings are as thick as new ones. Run the adjuster in and out as far as it will go to be sure it works freely, check the self adjuster to be sure it is free, and work the lever arm back and forth to be sure it doesn't stick. When you reinstall the rotor, adjust the brake shoes so the rotor just barely slides over them and you won't have to manually adjust them when you get everything back together.
One note though when you remove the rotors since a lot of people make this mistake. If the rotor comes off part way and then seems to get stuck, the rotor is hung on the e-brake shoe linings. You can back the brakes off by using the adjuster. Its accessed through a hole in the back plate. Should have a rubber grommet in it. Can't remember which way to turn it to loosen brakes but if you are going wrong way, they will tighten against rotor and you won't be able to even wiggle the rotor. Turn in opposite direction and it will back the shoes off so the rotor slides right off with little effort.
One note though when you remove the rotors since a lot of people make this mistake. If the rotor comes off part way and then seems to get stuck, the rotor is hung on the e-brake shoe linings. You can back the brakes off by using the adjuster. Its accessed through a hole in the back plate. Should have a rubber grommet in it. Can't remember which way to turn it to loosen brakes but if you are going wrong way, they will tighten against rotor and you won't be able to even wiggle the rotor. Turn in opposite direction and it will back the shoes off so the rotor slides right off with little effort.
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