Friggin black paint!!!!
Hawk312
11-03-2002, 01:07 AM
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am trying to rub out the black paint on my 1/12 `69 Z28 without much luck. I am using several different compounds, including 3M`s and Tamiya, as well as a swirl and scratch remover from 3M. I also am trying a couple different brands of polish. It seems no matter what I do, the surface always has a "haze" and looks grayish. It looks like there might be super fine scratches in it. Does anyone have a secret for getting a perfect finish with a black paint job?
Black :badass: :aug2: :rocket: :aug2:
I am trying to rub out the black paint on my 1/12 `69 Z28 without much luck. I am using several different compounds, including 3M`s and Tamiya, as well as a swirl and scratch remover from 3M. I also am trying a couple different brands of polish. It seems no matter what I do, the surface always has a "haze" and looks grayish. It looks like there might be super fine scratches in it. Does anyone have a secret for getting a perfect finish with a black paint job?
Black :badass: :aug2: :rocket: :aug2:
TheSyndicate
11-03-2002, 01:51 AM
Eleanor got ya man!
You might want to just start over if you've rubbed past the point of turning back. I've had some good luck painting black with generic brand enamels. They usually don't have as durable a consistency of tamiya or testors paint, but they are good when finished off with a good automotive caranuba wax.
more specifically, wal-mart brand spray paint :)
You might want to just start over if you've rubbed past the point of turning back. I've had some good luck painting black with generic brand enamels. They usually don't have as durable a consistency of tamiya or testors paint, but they are good when finished off with a good automotive caranuba wax.
more specifically, wal-mart brand spray paint :)
primera man
11-03-2002, 07:00 AM
Is the cloth you using a VERY SOFT one??...to hard a cloth is not good for the paint.
I only use Tamiya rubbing compound and have no problems with it.
The very last rub you give it should be done lightly and changing the cloth so that the built of of paint is not left on one spot of the cloth as you rub.
When i rub a body i do one small section at a time.
E.g. Do the bonnet, then put new compound on a different part of the cloth for the roof etc etc. The build up of paint in your cloth will scratch away at paint if there's to much in it.
I only use Tamiya rubbing compound and have no problems with it.
The very last rub you give it should be done lightly and changing the cloth so that the built of of paint is not left on one spot of the cloth as you rub.
When i rub a body i do one small section at a time.
E.g. Do the bonnet, then put new compound on a different part of the cloth for the roof etc etc. The build up of paint in your cloth will scratch away at paint if there's to much in it.
flyonthewall
11-03-2002, 08:08 AM
Is it metalic paint?
Hawk312
11-03-2002, 08:52 AM
Instead of posting all those taunts and stuff, just get straight to the point.
:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
Is it metalic paint?
It`s supposed to be a true black paint, no metallic. It is automotive laquer, and I followed the black up with several coats of clear. I used the same technique on my Willy`s kit, and I thought the results on that were excellent. I have pictures of it in the Willy`s no dissapointment thread.
:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
Is it metalic paint?
It`s supposed to be a true black paint, no metallic. It is automotive laquer, and I followed the black up with several coats of clear. I used the same technique on my Willy`s kit, and I thought the results on that were excellent. I have pictures of it in the Willy`s no dissapointment thread.
daggerlee
11-03-2002, 09:04 AM
Try leveling out the paint with some 2400 or 3200 grit sand paper so it's uniformly flat, then using some of the polishing compounds.
BWheel
11-03-2002, 10:24 AM
Originally posted by Hawk312
It`s supposed to be a true black paint, no metallic. It is automotive laquer, and I followed the black up with several coats of clear. I used the same technique on my Willy`s kit, and I thought the results on that were excellent. I have pictures of it in the Willy`s no dissapointment thread.
Can you confirm whether you sprayed the black, then the clear, or did you clear the black up first before going with the clear cote?
By the sounds of things, you're currently working on the clear-cote, and you'll never resolve any issues that way. You need to make sure your main color is right BEFORE clearcote gets sprayed on.
If this is the case, your only option is to strip and start again.
Good luck...
B
It`s supposed to be a true black paint, no metallic. It is automotive laquer, and I followed the black up with several coats of clear. I used the same technique on my Willy`s kit, and I thought the results on that were excellent. I have pictures of it in the Willy`s no dissapointment thread.
Can you confirm whether you sprayed the black, then the clear, or did you clear the black up first before going with the clear cote?
By the sounds of things, you're currently working on the clear-cote, and you'll never resolve any issues that way. You need to make sure your main color is right BEFORE clearcote gets sprayed on.
If this is the case, your only option is to strip and start again.
Good luck...
B
bvia
11-04-2002, 04:32 AM
3M makes a product called "Haze Remover". If it truly is haze you're looking at, then this would be the product you'd want to use.
hth,
Bill
:bandit:
hth,
Bill
:bandit:
flyonthewall
11-04-2002, 06:53 AM
Originally posted by Hawk312
I used the same technique on my Willy
OOHH Matron!
http://www.shef.ac.uk/staff/newsletter/vol25no8/images/matron.gif
:D :D :D
I used the same technique on my Willy
OOHH Matron!
http://www.shef.ac.uk/staff/newsletter/vol25no8/images/matron.gif
:D :D :D
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