Intake gasket and valve settings

Well I am getting ready to start the gasket replacement on my 97 tomorrow. I have been trying to get the push rod removal tool that Lisle sells (LIS-48500) local but nobody has one and I can't wait 3-5 days to order one.

I need to rush this because I have found antifreeze in the oil of the car and my wife depends on this car for her transportation. I will have Thursday and Friday to complete.

I am also going to replace the lifter set while I have the motor open because I think that one lifter was collapsed. There is a tapping noise that comes and goes from the back valve cover.

My question is this;

Since I need to loosen the rockers to remove the push rods is there a certain procedure for reinstalling them. I have heard that they are zero lash and no adjustment is nessecary.

Does anyone know the tourque settings (procedeures) for the rockers, intake bolts (upper and lower)

Sorry about all the questions but I'm a newbee at this.

Well I am getting ready to start the gasket replacement on my 97 tomorrow. I have been trying to get the push rod removal tool that Lisle sells (LIS-48500) local but nobody has one and I can't wait 3-5 days to order one.

I need to rush this because I have found antifreeze in the oil of the car and my wife depends on this car for her transportation. I will have Thursday and Friday to complete.

I am also going to replace the lifter set while I have the motor open because I think that one lifter was collapsed. There is a tapping noise that comes and goes from the back valve cover.

My question is this;

Since I need to loosen the rockers to remove the push rods is there a certain procedure for reinstalling them. I have heard that they are zero lash and no adjustment is nessecary.

Does anyone know the tourque settings (procedeures) for the rockers, intake bolts (upper and lower)

Sorry about all the questions but I'm a newbee at this.
i just replaced the intake on my 97 with 244000 miles.. the lifters should be ok.. just remove the push rods and keep theme in order, so you wont get them mixed up. tighten the rockers snug.. thats it..

Like cf1 mentioned, you don't need to remove the valve springs. You have to make sure you keep the pushrods in proper order, as they have different lengths, so mixing them up is a big no-no. The rockers are zero lash, they just need to be torqued to proper specs and thats it. I don't remember what torque values are need, but get the proper specs and do it properley.

Also, make sure you change the oil pump o-ring rubber gasket too at this point, as its easy to do and will save you a lot of headache if(when) it starts to leak.

Make sure you clean your intake bolts real well and apply thread locker on the bolts and make sure they are torqued to proper specs too. this is important, or your job won't last long.

Good luck and take your time.

Thanks for the info. I did the repair Thursday and everything went great. I put in a new set of lifters also because one of them was tapping. Changed the oil 2x so far and it sounds great.

Whenever you remove gaskets that stop fluid, inspect them to make sure it was actually leaking. Also check the mating surfaces for cracks. The problem may lie elsewhere and be easier to get to because the motor is already being taken apart. I've taken plenty motors apart and find nothing wrong with the intake gasket so I keep going and find a leaking head gasket. This prevents possibly having to take the motor apart twice.

The torque specs for the intake bolts will be included with the gasket kit you buy. The new improved design gaskets require a different torque value than the OEM did. The pushrods are different lengths for the intake and exhaust valves (intake 5.75", exhaust 6.00"), so be sure you don't mix them up. There is a torque spec for the rockers as well, 89 in/lbs plus an additional 30 degrees. Make sure you lubricate the ends of the pushrods before you install them.

Like cf1 mentioned, you don't need to remove the valve springs. You have to make sure you keep the pushrods in proper order, as they have different lengths, so mixing them up is a big no-no. The rockers are zero lash, they just need to be torqued to proper specs and thats it. I don't remember what torque values are need, but get the proper specs and do it properley.

Also, make sure you change the oil pump o-ring rubber gasket too at this point, as its easy to do and will save you a lot of headache if(when) it starts to leak.

Make sure you clean your intake bolts real well and apply thread locker on the bolts and make sure they are torqued to proper specs too. this is important, or your job won't last long.

Good luck and take your time.

Im getting ready to do mine tomorrow where do I get this oil pump o-ring?

The o-ring can be purchased at the dealer. You might be able to get it at parts stores, but I always get it at the dealer.

spdfrk1990, this original thread is over 3 months old, so you may want to start your own if you have any other questions/issues.

To answer you question, the fel-pro part number for the o-ring is 70800, and should be available at any auto parts store. I also put a paper distributor gasket from a SB chevy V-8 (fel-pro #70194) between the block and the top of the housing as insurance against future leaks.

spdfrk1990, this original thread is over 3 months old, so you may want to start your own if you have any other questions/issues.

To answer you question, the fel-pro part number for the o-ring is 70800, and should be available at any auto parts store. I also put a paper distributor gasket from a SB chevy V-8 (fel-pro #70194) between the block and the top of the housing as insurance against future leaks.
Thanks but if I make a new thread someone will just tell me to use the search.

Ill be finished with mine tomorrow. My car does not have that seal I think its only for 3.1's with a distributor. I went ahead and put new o-rings on my injectors also and cleaned up the intake and valve covers with super clean it looks much better.