Clearcoats. Can you...
RyanGiorgio
11-02-2002, 05:18 PM
Can you spray a clearcoat over the decals have been put on? thanks.
cph81
11-02-2002, 05:24 PM
Yes.
That's what clearcoat for: protect decal.
That's what clearcoat for: protect decal.
ex-r
11-02-2002, 07:37 PM
Yes you can. I use automotive clears without any effect. Just gotta make sure the decals are fully dried before applying the clear.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/593363clear.JPG
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/593363clear.JPG
Jonno
11-02-2002, 10:01 PM
Some decals don't like clearcoat, but I haven't had any problems before.
935k3
11-02-2002, 10:14 PM
Be careful to dust the clear on in very light coats at first to gradually build it up then go for wetter coats.
integra818
11-02-2002, 11:49 PM
If I spray clearcoat over an enamel paint, won't the clear coat wrinkle?
BWheel
11-03-2002, 05:32 AM
Make sure that the paint you're spraying over has cured properly before clear-cote gets sprayed on. You'd be looking at the paint having cured for a week anyway before you prep the body with T-Cut or whatever anyway.
Once you have put the decals on, you'll also want to leave it for at least a day for them to dry correctly, preferably longer.
Question: Do you guys use decal setting solution much, or just lay them on straight?
Once you have put the decals on, you'll also want to leave it for at least a day for them to dry correctly, preferably longer.
Question: Do you guys use decal setting solution much, or just lay them on straight?
Guido
11-03-2002, 06:16 AM
I always use decal solution. It make the decal "stick" better. But after you've used solutions, make sure you give it enough time to dry, you should clean the solution solvants away with a damp cloth. Otherwise enamel clear will give you trouble with fish-eye effects etc.
hirofkd
11-03-2002, 03:15 PM
Originally posted by integra818
If I spray clearcoat over an enamel paint, won't the clear coat wrinkle?
Usually not. When layering two types of paint, always wait long enough for the underlying paint to dry, so that the remaining solvent won't affect the layer above. And when applying the 2nd paint, start with a few coats of mist, so that it won't dissolve the layer underneath it. As long as those principals are kept, you can almost always use any type of combination. Still, it's good to know that the strength of solvent
lacquer (unaffected by enamel or water)
enamel (unaffected by enamel)
water
As for clear coating decals, apply the spare decal, such as company logo on a scrap part, and test spray clear. That's the most certain way to avoid a mess-up.
I've used Tamiya spray, Dupli-Color and Gunze Mr. Color spray and Testor lacquer Gloss Coat and Gunze's waterless Top Coat spray cans on Tamiya, Hasegawa, Aoshima, Fujimi and Caltograf decals.
If I spray clearcoat over an enamel paint, won't the clear coat wrinkle?
Usually not. When layering two types of paint, always wait long enough for the underlying paint to dry, so that the remaining solvent won't affect the layer above. And when applying the 2nd paint, start with a few coats of mist, so that it won't dissolve the layer underneath it. As long as those principals are kept, you can almost always use any type of combination. Still, it's good to know that the strength of solvent
lacquer (unaffected by enamel or water)
enamel (unaffected by enamel)
water
As for clear coating decals, apply the spare decal, such as company logo on a scrap part, and test spray clear. That's the most certain way to avoid a mess-up.
I've used Tamiya spray, Dupli-Color and Gunze Mr. Color spray and Testor lacquer Gloss Coat and Gunze's waterless Top Coat spray cans on Tamiya, Hasegawa, Aoshima, Fujimi and Caltograf decals.
gcheok
11-14-2002, 11:35 PM
Can clear coat be applied to clear plastic? Like window frames and tail lights.
bvia
11-14-2002, 11:39 PM
Depends. Future (an acrylic floor "polish") is used by many to clearcoat clear plastics (windshields/tailights, etc), but some types of paints actually etch bare styrene plastic, which would craze the surface. Best to try ANY types of paint and combinations on scrap first. That way you're for sure and when folks like Hiro give you specifics, make sure to cut, paste and keep them handy!
hth,
Bill
:bandit:
hth,
Bill
:bandit:
TheSyndicate
11-14-2002, 11:42 PM
Don't clearcoat clear plastic. It will fog it.
gcheok
11-15-2002, 02:17 AM
hmmm....so how do I protect the decals on clear plastic?
Jay!
11-15-2002, 12:29 PM
Originally posted by gcheok
hmmm....so how do I protect the decals on clear plastic? Future would probably serve you well in that case...
hmmm....so how do I protect the decals on clear plastic? Future would probably serve you well in that case...
giordano
11-15-2002, 12:39 PM
another question: do i need to polish the paint make it even before spraying clear on it? or spray it with clear and then use polishing compound?
tonioseven
11-15-2002, 01:24 PM
Polish out the finish first then use the clearcoat. :)
gcheok
11-16-2002, 11:18 AM
What is future? Is there a website for it? btw, if I polish out the paint, would clear coat dull the finish? or do I still have to polish out the clear coat? TIA
To Jay: Which tamiya builds that spoon S2K, would be nice to build..
To Jay: Which tamiya builds that spoon S2K, would be nice to build..
Integra14
11-16-2002, 11:49 AM
Do you paint the Window frames before clearcoating of after?
primera man
11-16-2002, 01:52 PM
Originally posted by Integra14
Do you paint the Window frames before clearcoating of after?
Do them after the clearcoat....most frames are done in a matt or semi-gloss. Clearcoating will only turn it to gloss
Do you paint the Window frames before clearcoating of after?
Do them after the clearcoat....most frames are done in a matt or semi-gloss. Clearcoating will only turn it to gloss
Nells98Vic
11-17-2002, 10:21 AM
After all these years, I still don't have a set rule as to how to treat a painted kit body.
A lot of people say "CLEARCOAT!", other's say "NO CLEARCOAT!" because the real car didn't come with any. Most new cars seem to have it, depending on color, but pre-80s cars didn't.
Some modelers can get a super smooth and glossy surface from just paint, by polishing and waxing. I myself find when going that route, a coat or two of clear helps prevent polishing through to bare plastic or primer, seeing as polishing removes paint. I try to polish a bit between coats of paint AND clearcoat, if possible. The smoother the surface you are painting/coating over, the better your results.
A note: I have been able to apply most decals over a waxed surface, but I do not usually build cars with lots of large decals. In that case, I usually polish the body out, then apply decals, then add some clearcoat and take it from there, depending on the results. Also, applying certain brands of foil onto a waxed body can be a hassle. I try to apply it before, but sometimes bits wear off, and need a touch-up with chrome paint. In essence, sometimes certain stuff won't adhere as well to a waxed surface.
You can shine up a windshield by applying some kind of wax to it. I haven't tried Future, but Meguire's car wax seems to work just fine. If you have an old kit with a damaged windshield, you can try using a polishing kit to hide the blemishes to a point, then wax. Some glues will indeed fog the plastic. STAY AWAY FROM SUPER GLUE! White glue seems to be the best, though if the kit is designed with very good positioning points, normal model glue can work even better. Don't let it bleed out onto the "glass", or you'll have a mess...
Usually, spraying a "hot" paint over a "cool" one will cause problems. While I have not yet worked with real lacquer, I have tried some MCW enamels, and you really have to prime the body properly because they seem rather hot. But I once sprayed actual automotive paint that was used by a body shop on a real Crown Vic onto Duplicolor primer, and the result was GREAT! No peel, no reaction. Whatever paint you use, try and let the paint dry as long as possible between coats. This will help prevent reactions, THOUGH I have not waited, and had no problems.........
http://www.crownvicsetc.com/files/DaveModel1.jpg
...which is why I say, every project can be different. What worked for one model, fails miserably for another. What works great for one person, doesn't for another. Some people live in a place with high humidity, some can paint all year, no problems. Yadda yadda..... It's all a learning experience........
Nells
A lot of people say "CLEARCOAT!", other's say "NO CLEARCOAT!" because the real car didn't come with any. Most new cars seem to have it, depending on color, but pre-80s cars didn't.
Some modelers can get a super smooth and glossy surface from just paint, by polishing and waxing. I myself find when going that route, a coat or two of clear helps prevent polishing through to bare plastic or primer, seeing as polishing removes paint. I try to polish a bit between coats of paint AND clearcoat, if possible. The smoother the surface you are painting/coating over, the better your results.
A note: I have been able to apply most decals over a waxed surface, but I do not usually build cars with lots of large decals. In that case, I usually polish the body out, then apply decals, then add some clearcoat and take it from there, depending on the results. Also, applying certain brands of foil onto a waxed body can be a hassle. I try to apply it before, but sometimes bits wear off, and need a touch-up with chrome paint. In essence, sometimes certain stuff won't adhere as well to a waxed surface.
You can shine up a windshield by applying some kind of wax to it. I haven't tried Future, but Meguire's car wax seems to work just fine. If you have an old kit with a damaged windshield, you can try using a polishing kit to hide the blemishes to a point, then wax. Some glues will indeed fog the plastic. STAY AWAY FROM SUPER GLUE! White glue seems to be the best, though if the kit is designed with very good positioning points, normal model glue can work even better. Don't let it bleed out onto the "glass", or you'll have a mess...
Usually, spraying a "hot" paint over a "cool" one will cause problems. While I have not yet worked with real lacquer, I have tried some MCW enamels, and you really have to prime the body properly because they seem rather hot. But I once sprayed actual automotive paint that was used by a body shop on a real Crown Vic onto Duplicolor primer, and the result was GREAT! No peel, no reaction. Whatever paint you use, try and let the paint dry as long as possible between coats. This will help prevent reactions, THOUGH I have not waited, and had no problems.........
http://www.crownvicsetc.com/files/DaveModel1.jpg
...which is why I say, every project can be different. What worked for one model, fails miserably for another. What works great for one person, doesn't for another. Some people live in a place with high humidity, some can paint all year, no problems. Yadda yadda..... It's all a learning experience........
Nells
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