Daylight running lights not working

This is a '99 1.3 liter automatic. The little green light on the dash works correctly and it shuts off when the parking break is applied but the headlights aren't on like they should be. The other light functions are normal.

Any idea where to look for this problem? Does anyone have a wiring diagram that shows this circuit? The Haynes manual is absolutely useless.

Thanks!

Are you saying that you expect the DRLs to remain ON when you have a the parking brake ON?

Mine turn OFF when the brake is ON, and turn ON again when I take the brake OFF. I thought that was normal...

make sure the bulbs are good

The DLR system is supposed to turn the low beams on whenever the engine is running and if the parking brake is NOT on. My DLR indicator on the dash, the little green light, comes on normally, but the headlights don't respond.

Now I've done a little internet searching and found that for earlier Metro's, like '91, there is a control box under under the dash near the steering column and a resistor behind the splash guard of the left quarter panel.

So, I looked under the splash guard and there is nothing there at all. No resistor. I did find the control module, but it's different than described with the earlier models. It's a silver box labelled '38660-50G00' made by Omron.

Questions: 1. Where might the resistor be located on a '99?
2. Does anyone have a 38660-50G00 they'd be willing to part with?

Thanks!

I think that later Metro models didn't have a DRL resistor. Anyone concur with this? The Haynes manual is useless on the subject.

Anyone who can help here? i visited the junkyard today and the DRL module on a '96 is black and has more wires going to it. The one I need is silver.

I know little about the '99. You might also try posting a question on the Swift (the Geo's twin) forum...

http://teamswift.net/

I know little about the '99. You might also try posting a question on the Swift (the Geo's twin) forum...

http://teamswift.net/
My thoughts exactly... I registered with teamswift a couple of days ago but they haven't authorized me yet... does that usually take a long time?

I have a 95 metro. when i apply the parking brake the green light goes off an so does the drl until i release the brake. then it works fine. i think its suppose to do that.

I'll type in the System Check chart for Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) out of my '95 manual. It's a first step - helps isolate the problem.

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Action 1: Turn light switch to HEAD position;move dimmer switch to LO position
Normal Results 1: Both LH and RH low beam filaments are lit at normal low beam intensity.

Action 2: Move dimmer switch forware to "HI" position
Normal Results 2: Both LH and RH low beam filaments turn OFF. Both LH and RH high beam filaments turn OFF. Both LH and RH high beam filaments are lit. High Beam Indicator is lit.

Action 3: Move dimmer switch rearward to "PASS" position.
Normal Results 3: both LH and RH high beam filaments are lit. High beam indicator is lit.

Action 4: Turn light switch to OFF or PARK position.; start engine; disengage parking brake.
Normal Results 4: Both LH and RH low beam and high beam filaments turn OFF. High beam indicator is OFF. Both LH and RH low beam filaments are lit at 80% intntensity. DRL indicator is lit.

Action 5: move dimmer switch rearward to PASS position.
Normal Results 5: both LH and RH low beam filaments turn OFF. DRL indicator is OFF. Both LH and RH high beam filaments are lit. High beam indicator is lit.

Action 6: shut off engine; disengage parking brake.
Normal Results 6: all headlamps turn OFF.
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Circuit Operation:
The headlamps are controlled either by the daytime running lamps (DRL) control module or by the light switch/dimmer switch. Once the light switch has been turned to HEAD, the dimmer switch will control the headlamps. WIth the dimmer switch in LO, ground is provided to the low beam filaments through the DRL control module, junction block, dimmer switch, back through the junction block, through the closed contacts of light 2 relay to ground (G201). Since voltage is applied to the headlamps at all times through the H/L LH Fuse and the H/L RH Fuse, the low beam filaments will light.

With the dimmer switch in HI, the high beam filaments in the headlamps are grounded through the junction block, dimmer switch, back through the junction block, through the closed contacts of Light 2 relay to ground (G201). Since voltage is applied to the headlamps at all times through the H/L LH fuse and the H/L RH fuse, the high beam filaments will light. The ground to the high beam indicator is provided in the same manner as the high beam filaments. Since voltage is applied to the high beam indicator at all times through the H/L LH fuse, the indicator will light.

With the dimmer switch in PASS, the high beam filaments in the headlamps are grounded through the junction block and dimmer switch too ground. Since voltage is applied to the headlamps at all times through the H/L LH fuse and the H/L RH fuse, the high beam filaments will light. The ground to the high beam indicator is provided in the same manner as the high beam filaments. Since voltage is applied to the high beam indicator at all times through the H/L LH fuse, the indicator will light.

With the ignition switch in ON or START, voltage is applied to the DRL control module through the IG fuse. The DRL control module is permanently grounded (G201). A number of conditions must be met before the daytime running lamps system will work properly: the parking brake must be disengaged, the DRL control module must not receive a ground signal from the generator (a ground signal from the generator indicates that the generator is not charging the battery) and the light switch is either in OFF or in PARK position. When the parking brake is engaged, the parking brake switch closes, prividing a ground to the DRL control module, disabling DRL operation. When the generator is not running, a switch in the generator closes, providing a ground to the DRL control module, disabling DRL operation. When the light switch is in the HEAD position, a path to ground (G201) is provided to the coil of light 2 relay. Since power is provided to the coil of light 2 relay at all times through diode no. 3, the contacts on the relay close, providing a ground path from the DRL control module to Ground G201, disabling DRL operation.

Once all the listed conditions for DRL operation are met, the DRL control module will provide a ground for the low beam filaments in the headlamps through the daytime running lamps resistor to ground (G102). Since voltage is applied to the headlamps at all times through the H/L LH fuse and the H/L RH fuse, the low beam filaments will light at 80% intensity.

The DRL control module will also provide a ground to the daytime running lamps indicator when the DRL operation conditions are met. Since voltage is applied to the daytime running lamps indicator through the IG fuse, it will light.
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Have you checked that your charging system is working? (See previous post.)

Are you getting any Diagnostic Trouble Codes?

The DLR module connector for '95's has 11 wires. How many on yours?

Have you checked that your charging system is working? (See previous post.)

Are you getting any Diagnostic Trouble Codes?

The DLR module connector for '95's has 11 wires. How many on yours?

The charging system is OK. Battery stays charged and no alternator light, so I don't think that's an issue.

No trouble codes once I replaced the ignition wires.

I'll check out how many wires in the DRL module connector. This has become my 18 yr old's ride, so I don't get to see it too often. I'll post back when I get a chance to stick my head under the dash.

I checked the number of wires in the DRL harness and there are 8 wires and the box is silver and has this number on it: 38660-50G00
The brake and DRL indicator lights work like they are supposed to, but the low beams don't come on with the engine running and the e-brake off like they are supposed to. Everything else runs great. Any more ideas?

The '95 models have an 11-pin connector. Think they're too different, and circuits too different to draw comparisons for diagnosis. That is, without having the electrical schematics for your year car.

The '95 models have an 11-pin connector. Think they're too different, and circuits too different to draw comparisons for diagnosis. That is, without having the electrical schematics for your year car.

Can someone post a schematic for a '99 Metro DRL circuit?
Thanks!

This is for a 2000 metro but hopefully it will work for a 99. If the images does not show up clearly PM me your email address and I will send you a higher quality PDF of the scan.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/rperinpa/DRL10003.jpg

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/rperinpa/DRL20002.jpg

Thanks, That IS the same circuit as on my '99. It looks like I'll check to make sure there's voltage at terminal 1, the red and white wire going into the connector. If that shows voltage when the DRL is supposed to be functioning, I'll know the controller is shot.

I am having a problem with my 1999 silverado. The headlights stay on but the drls don't work at all. Can I remove the fuse drl fuse to switch off the headlights and just use them manually?

try it and see!

sas95 has a lot of good inpute here. I think he'll be a valuable asset to the AF. Hopefully he can help me too. I have a 96 Metro with a headlamp issue too.

1. With my headlight switch on in head position and parking brake off, I have all lights except the headlamps.

2. With my headlamp switch to the off position, I have headlamps only, when the parking brake is disengaged and low beam only.

Does this indicate my DRL control module could be toast?

Update:

I just replaced the DRL Control Module and the Diod and still have the problem

Well, I just replaced the combination switch and sure enough, I have head lights now. It turns out, my DRL has always worked fine. They are supposed to run in the off position. My head light portion just quit. High beams and low beam selector works too. One thing I noticed too, is the plug, from the combo switch, that mounts in the fuse box (closest to the firewall) has a lead that gets hot and melts the plastic a little. You won't have any trouble spotting it, if you look for it.
If this is a full time hot, then I'm going to run it separate from the plug and install it's own fuseable link. This may possibly be a reason why my headlight switch nuked out.:)

so does this mean you have a spare DRL module you may be willing to part with? Is it silver with 8 pin connector?

No, mine is black, with 11 pins. The number on it is: 38660-60A01 which is a bit different than the ones earlier in this thread. Mine is a '96, rather than a '99. The '95 and '96 had the sealed beam headlights (versus composite), so the wiring diagram will be different, than the 97 and later. For all those out there, who may need a combination switch, the same rule applies, as with the DRL Control Module. Good Luck and ask questions if you need. I can possibly help.

Oh yea, I follow you on the Haynes issue. Mine didn't help me either. I just started replacing the cheapest parts and went from there. I venture to guess your DRL cm is toast, from what you're describing. Go to a wrecking yard and pull one. You should be able to get one for about ten bucks.

No, mine is black, with 11 pins. The number on it is: 38660-60A01 which is a bit different than the ones earlier in this thread. Mine is a '96, rather than a '99. The '95 and '96 had the sealed beam headlights (versus composite), so the wiring diagram will be different, than the 97 and later. For all those out there, who may need a combination switch, the same rule applies, as with the DRL Control Module. Good Luck and ask questions if you need. I can possibly help.

Oh yea, I follow you on the Haynes issue. Mine didn't help me either. I just started replacing the cheapest parts and went from there. I venture to guess your DRL cm is toast, from what you're describing. Go to a wrecking yard and pull one. You should be able to get one for about ten bucks.

Sorry, I missed the part about your's being a '96. I went to a u-pull it yard and they only had one metro and it was a '96. Of course it had the 11 pin connector and the black module. I was able to take a bunch of parts off, but not the DRL module. I'll keep looking.