Towing limits on '99 durango
DOA7791
06-28-2007, 01:01 PM
Hello,
I am looking at a specific travel trailer, and was wondering if i could pull it. The specs I've found on my '99 Durango 5.2 2WD say anywhere from 4700 - 5900lbs. I'm looking at one that is 5041lbs. I am going to be using a digital brake controller, an equalizer direct bolt-on weight distributor/anti-sway mechanism, and most hauling will be in fairly level conditions. could this feasable be done, and any thoughts concerning this situation would be much appreciated.
I am looking at a specific travel trailer, and was wondering if i could pull it. The specs I've found on my '99 Durango 5.2 2WD say anywhere from 4700 - 5900lbs. I'm looking at one that is 5041lbs. I am going to be using a digital brake controller, an equalizer direct bolt-on weight distributor/anti-sway mechanism, and most hauling will be in fairly level conditions. could this feasable be done, and any thoughts concerning this situation would be much appreciated.
DOA7791
06-30-2007, 04:26 AM
Anyone have any info for me?
i have since found out that my Dodge has the 3.55:1 rear i also know that i can get the high end of the towing cpacity by having the 3.92:1 rear...what would be the pro's and cons to the swap...and how bad will this thing tow even when it is w/in its capacity
i have since found out that my Dodge has the 3.55:1 rear i also know that i can get the high end of the towing cpacity by having the 3.92:1 rear...what would be the pro's and cons to the swap...and how bad will this thing tow even when it is w/in its capacity
wetchicken
07-10-2007, 11:23 AM
There are a lot of factors to consider to know if the vehicle is capable of towing any trailer, and there is more than just trailer weight to worry about. Also keep in mind the tongue weight, Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW), weight ratings for your reciever, and the hitch. I definitely don't recommend using a step and tow bumper for this weight.
A physical inspection of the vehicle (and trailer) should be done to make sure that the vehicle is in proper working order and the frame is in good enough shape to handle the load.
Check your owners manual (or any reliable source) of the truck and trailer to find the the following info:
Tongue weight of the trailer
Overall weight of the trailerWeight capacites of the vehicle:
Tongue weight
Trailer Weight
GVWTongue weight is the weight of the trailer measured at the hitch. Overall weight is if the truck OR trailer was sitting on a scale. GVW is the combined weight of the tow vehicle and the trailer.
If those numbers don't exceed the ratings of the vehicle, then you are all set. Since you are using the leveler and anti-sway, there is leeway in the tongue weight and the overall weight, but I am not familiar on how to calculate that.
The best way to setup the vehicle is each should be fairly level. If it looks overloaded, it is. That's an excellent cause to get stopped by the police for an overloaded vehicle.
If the truck looks good, and the trailer is not, then there are hitches available to correct that. If the truck is not even close to level, then it is overloaded (even though the weights were good on paper) and suspension helpers will be needed. Take it to a camper place to have them installed, they will be most familiar. Even then, that might not be enough and they will be able to tell you this.
Rear End Gear Ratios:
The bigger the number the more leverage the engine has to push it down the road, and the worse fuel mileage you will get. 1:3.92 makes towing easier, while 1:3.55 will give better fuel economy for highway traveling.
The reason the 3.55's aren't recommended for towing heavy weight is it puts more stress on the driveline than 3.92's would.
What those numbers mean is how many revolutions the drive shaft has to turn to get the whees to make one revolution. Thus the driveshaft turns 3.92 times to make the tires turn once.
Having the ratio changed can be an expensive job, and it takes a skilled mechanic to do it. If you decide to do it, I recommend Richmond gears, since I had good luck when I needed to change mine. No whine, and the mechanic told me that it set up easily.
If it was 4wd, you would have a can of worms since you would alslo have to change the ratio of the front end.
Predicting how well it will tow is tough, but with the load leveler and anti-sway there shouldn't be a problem. Make sure you distrubute the loaded items into the trailer evenly. Too much weight in the back will make it sway violently around 45-50 mph. Too much in the nose might over load the tow vehicle. The general rule is 60% overall weight in the front of the wheels, and 40% overall behind.
Keep in mind that you are now putting about 10,000 pounds of vehicle down the road. Even though you will have well working trailer brakes (at least I hope so) it will take a completely different driving style to operate it safely.
Be sure to set up the electric brakes properly according to the owners manual of the controller.
Once you get this all hooked up, go into a fairly empty parking lot or a back road with little traffic on it and do some stop tests. This will give you an idea of how fast it doesn't stop.
Leave double extra time, travel slower, and don't drive like a maniac. Don't get distracted by the cellphone, kids, or whatever else. Set the radio to something good (I love my XM) or CD's to repeat, and concentrate on driving. Don't over stress yourself, just take it easy.
Limit your lane changes on the highway. Travel in the right hand travel lanes most of the time and leave more than enough room between you and the vechicle in front of you. My best recommendation is to travel around the posted speed limit, or even less than the limit on side roads.
Now, you might be asking about holding up the person behind you. When I tested, I don't remember seeing anything about keeping them happy, only items pertaining to operating your vehicle safely.
Oh, and don't forget to swing wide on corners. If there are more than one lane turning, be on the outside of the turn unless you have a turn coming up and won't be able to make it across traffic.
If you are completely baffled, it's probably my writing skills. :) Actually, if you don't understand this, or can't figure it out, take it to a caming place that can do all of the set-up for you. $100-$200 is well worth the investment when you consider that someone might get hurt or killed if it isn't done correctly. A decent place will probably help you figure this out for nothing.
Jason
BTW I have been around towing and trucking for a lot of my life. I have a few years driving wrecker and tractor trailers.
A physical inspection of the vehicle (and trailer) should be done to make sure that the vehicle is in proper working order and the frame is in good enough shape to handle the load.
Check your owners manual (or any reliable source) of the truck and trailer to find the the following info:
Tongue weight of the trailer
Overall weight of the trailerWeight capacites of the vehicle:
Tongue weight
Trailer Weight
GVWTongue weight is the weight of the trailer measured at the hitch. Overall weight is if the truck OR trailer was sitting on a scale. GVW is the combined weight of the tow vehicle and the trailer.
If those numbers don't exceed the ratings of the vehicle, then you are all set. Since you are using the leveler and anti-sway, there is leeway in the tongue weight and the overall weight, but I am not familiar on how to calculate that.
The best way to setup the vehicle is each should be fairly level. If it looks overloaded, it is. That's an excellent cause to get stopped by the police for an overloaded vehicle.
If the truck looks good, and the trailer is not, then there are hitches available to correct that. If the truck is not even close to level, then it is overloaded (even though the weights were good on paper) and suspension helpers will be needed. Take it to a camper place to have them installed, they will be most familiar. Even then, that might not be enough and they will be able to tell you this.
Rear End Gear Ratios:
The bigger the number the more leverage the engine has to push it down the road, and the worse fuel mileage you will get. 1:3.92 makes towing easier, while 1:3.55 will give better fuel economy for highway traveling.
The reason the 3.55's aren't recommended for towing heavy weight is it puts more stress on the driveline than 3.92's would.
What those numbers mean is how many revolutions the drive shaft has to turn to get the whees to make one revolution. Thus the driveshaft turns 3.92 times to make the tires turn once.
Having the ratio changed can be an expensive job, and it takes a skilled mechanic to do it. If you decide to do it, I recommend Richmond gears, since I had good luck when I needed to change mine. No whine, and the mechanic told me that it set up easily.
If it was 4wd, you would have a can of worms since you would alslo have to change the ratio of the front end.
Predicting how well it will tow is tough, but with the load leveler and anti-sway there shouldn't be a problem. Make sure you distrubute the loaded items into the trailer evenly. Too much weight in the back will make it sway violently around 45-50 mph. Too much in the nose might over load the tow vehicle. The general rule is 60% overall weight in the front of the wheels, and 40% overall behind.
Keep in mind that you are now putting about 10,000 pounds of vehicle down the road. Even though you will have well working trailer brakes (at least I hope so) it will take a completely different driving style to operate it safely.
Be sure to set up the electric brakes properly according to the owners manual of the controller.
Once you get this all hooked up, go into a fairly empty parking lot or a back road with little traffic on it and do some stop tests. This will give you an idea of how fast it doesn't stop.
Leave double extra time, travel slower, and don't drive like a maniac. Don't get distracted by the cellphone, kids, or whatever else. Set the radio to something good (I love my XM) or CD's to repeat, and concentrate on driving. Don't over stress yourself, just take it easy.
Limit your lane changes on the highway. Travel in the right hand travel lanes most of the time and leave more than enough room between you and the vechicle in front of you. My best recommendation is to travel around the posted speed limit, or even less than the limit on side roads.
Now, you might be asking about holding up the person behind you. When I tested, I don't remember seeing anything about keeping them happy, only items pertaining to operating your vehicle safely.
Oh, and don't forget to swing wide on corners. If there are more than one lane turning, be on the outside of the turn unless you have a turn coming up and won't be able to make it across traffic.
If you are completely baffled, it's probably my writing skills. :) Actually, if you don't understand this, or can't figure it out, take it to a caming place that can do all of the set-up for you. $100-$200 is well worth the investment when you consider that someone might get hurt or killed if it isn't done correctly. A decent place will probably help you figure this out for nothing.
Jason
BTW I have been around towing and trucking for a lot of my life. I have a few years driving wrecker and tractor trailers.
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