1996 to 2000 known problems
ChoochCharlie
06-26-2007, 02:52 PM
I am shopping for a 1996-2000 Grand Caravan or Voyager for my wife. Seems the prices range from $3000 to $3500 in my area. Perfect.
Are there years, models, or other things I should be on the lookout for in my search? Known problems or signs of problems?
There are no "sticky" posts in this forum like other vehicles I have owned. Unlike the Chevy Venture I owned previously. Blew the motor. So does everyone else. I am trying not to make the same mistake.
Are there years, models, or other things I should be on the lookout for in my search? Known problems or signs of problems?
There are no "sticky" posts in this forum like other vehicles I have owned. Unlike the Chevy Venture I owned previously. Blew the motor. So does everyone else. I am trying not to make the same mistake.
Bear
06-26-2007, 04:06 PM
I have a '96 and the only issue I have had (as with many others) is the possessed interval selection of the windshield wipers. These things will go to any interval (at times)regardless of what you select. I have cleaned the wiper motor of all crud and that seemed to work for awhile but maybe the multi-function switch is the answer, you should see more data on this site for that problem. Aside from that, the car has been bullet proof.
Rawtorque
06-26-2007, 07:40 PM
The 41TE automatic transaxle on these has issues, though many bugs were worked out of them by '96. You need to keep the trans fluid changed like every 20,000 miles, use a genuine Mopar filter (off brands are know to self destruct, taking the transmission with them), and use ATF+4 fluid on the '96-'99 and ATF+5 on the 2000 & up. An external trans fluid cooler will help.
Electrical gremlins seem to happen often, and which circuit is first varies.
Electrical gremlins seem to happen often, and which circuit is first varies.
Bear
06-26-2007, 10:09 PM
No transmission issues with my'96, but only 113,00 miles on her. I change fluid and filter every 30,000 miles (ATF+4) and I use a generic Advance auto parts filter kit.No electrical issues, well I did change out the ignition key lock cylinder, and had to do the same on my '98 neon at 67,000 miles.
RIP
06-27-2007, 02:54 AM
When you find a prospect, try these checks:
> Don't just start it once or twice. Give it five or six. Watch for dead instruments on the instrument cluster ie, speedo, tach, etc. Watch for no or slow starts. In between starts with the ignition switch "on", smack the top of the dash several times then start it up and do the same. An increasingly common fault are dead instruments, sometimes accompanied by no start. The common fix for this is a bad solder joint on the back of the instrument cluster printed circuit board. Not fun to fix.
> Inspect the upper strut mounts for rust. There is a recall for this for some model years otherwise the fix can be pricey.
> Avoid the 3 .0 ltr engine. It creates many headaches plus it uses a timing belt that has to be changed every 60K miles (labor costs are a killer). The 3.3 and 3.8 ltr engines use timing chains (no change required) and are fairly bullet proof.
> A/C system evaporators and proportioning valves have a history of leaking. Both are under the dash and are very pricey to have repaired. Let it run as long as you can. Listen for hissing under the dash when you shut it off. It's a sign of low coolant and a leak. Run through all the ventilation system modes and make sure air is coming out correct vents at the correct time.
If you see a trailer hitch consider walking away especially if there is no aux tranny cooler installed. As was stated, the tranny has a history. If not treated with TLC they can bite you. Stress it and it can stress you.
If I remember more I'll come back and edit.
> Don't just start it once or twice. Give it five or six. Watch for dead instruments on the instrument cluster ie, speedo, tach, etc. Watch for no or slow starts. In between starts with the ignition switch "on", smack the top of the dash several times then start it up and do the same. An increasingly common fault are dead instruments, sometimes accompanied by no start. The common fix for this is a bad solder joint on the back of the instrument cluster printed circuit board. Not fun to fix.
> Inspect the upper strut mounts for rust. There is a recall for this for some model years otherwise the fix can be pricey.
> Avoid the 3 .0 ltr engine. It creates many headaches plus it uses a timing belt that has to be changed every 60K miles (labor costs are a killer). The 3.3 and 3.8 ltr engines use timing chains (no change required) and are fairly bullet proof.
> A/C system evaporators and proportioning valves have a history of leaking. Both are under the dash and are very pricey to have repaired. Let it run as long as you can. Listen for hissing under the dash when you shut it off. It's a sign of low coolant and a leak. Run through all the ventilation system modes and make sure air is coming out correct vents at the correct time.
If you see a trailer hitch consider walking away especially if there is no aux tranny cooler installed. As was stated, the tranny has a history. If not treated with TLC they can bite you. Stress it and it can stress you.
If I remember more I'll come back and edit.
ChoochCharlie
06-27-2007, 02:03 PM
Great info. This is EXACTLY what I need to know.
Anything else?
Anything else?
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