porting

so im getting wicked boost creep how much does it cost to port my current o2 cuz im trying to buy a new one for 50-60 bucks is that how much porting would cost if anyone has a ported one sitting in their garage hit me up.

Do work son! Porting really isnt too hard, if you have a die grinder and some patience. I think you can get 'er did in around a day or two depending on how extensive you port and how long you put in each day. IIRC, I had my o2 housing ported to hell, the turbo opened up a lot, head opened up and gasket matched, and exhaust mani gasket matched in about 15 hours of work. I have my o2 housing, but I sorta need it. I would for sure port yours for ya if you want. I can snap some pics and send them your way if you like. PM me if ya interested home boy.

so if all i wanted to was the o2 housing i would have to port the o2 housing itself and the gaskets on either side. i really dont feel like pulling the turbo out and porting that right now plus i have to drive it everyday so thats not really in the agenda. could i use just a regular drill or dremel tool with grinding bits?

no that would take you a month

Do work son! Porting really isnt too hard, if you have a die grinder and some patience. I think you can get 'er did in around a day or two depending on how extensive you port and how long you put in each day. IIRC, I had my o2 housing ported to hell, the turbo opened up a lot, head opened up and gasket matched, and exhaust mani gasket matched in about 15 hours of work. I have my o2 housing, but I sorta need it. I would for sure port yours for ya if you want. I can snap some pics and send them your way if you like. PM me if ya interested home boy.
how much you want for a E316g port? :wink:

Black99GST: Are you serious? I dont know that I would do a turbo again, atleast not with the bits I have now and especially not on someones good turbo. If you are talking about an Evo III o2 housing I could gasket match it if you wanted, but I cant imagine you would gain much from a full port on one of those.

cantgo2fast: Porting with a dremel would never happen, it would literally take you forever. No, you wouldnt need to port everything just because you did the 02 housing, and IIRC its usually the o2 sensor housing that is the culprit... not the manifold or the turbo. I'll shoot ya a PM.

Black99GST: Are you serious? I dont know that I would do a turbo again, atleast not with the bits I have now and especially not on someones good turbo. If you are talking about an Evo III o2 housing I could gasket match it if you wanted, but I cant imagine you would gain much from a full port on one of those.
i already have a external dump o2 housing, and i dont boost creap at all... just was wondering what you would charge on the port job... ;)

Well, I guess I dont know... but in all honesty homie, I dont think I trust myself with your new turbo. To entertain your question, I guess I think I would ask $30 a port job for a o2 or a turbo.... I think?

Actually, the O2 housing has little to do with the boost creep on these smaller turbos. The turbine housing, or more accurately, the WG exit area, is the main problem. When porting the WG exit area however, you need to match the O2 housing entrance to the work done there, so they go hand in hand. Doing just the O2 housing does very little.

I've got a collection of old posts from 2002 or so on my site, here. (http://www.posracing.net/BoostCreep.html)

so i would need to do the wastegate first then the o2. it seems like most people solve their boost creep with just the o2 housing though. What kind if tools did u guys use to port yours? Ya after reading your posts i shouldve expected this because i have a full 3in exhaust with no cat it creeps to 22 psi @6600 rpm which is no good ive only run it that far once terrified of the consequences of going to redline because the creep probably wouldnt stop

I should also add that you can port the turbine housing without taking the turbo off the car. Seperate the tubine housing at the vband clamp at the center section, and disconnect the downpipe and remove the 4 manifold bolts/nuts. When I was doing a ton of porting for the local group, I could go from starting work to actually grinding in about 10 minutes on most cars.

As far as tools, I use a 20 dollar pnuematic die grinder from HD or Lowes, and 2 or 3 carbide burs. Check www.mcmaster.com for a great selection. It would take a pretty special shop to find these things locally. Sometimes you can find a tool/die shop that supplies machine shops though in some cities... Great source for carbide burs, oddball drill bits and hardware, etc.

The vfaq talks about what you need to port on the turbine housing, with pics. I then match the gasket to my work on the turbine housing, which in turn makes an excellent template to make the O2 housing match. ;) Do some blending and make it all nice, and ship it. It's not rocket surgery, just put a little thought into it and make it happen. I did it in steps since I was learning as I went, and had to go back in several times to get boost as low as I needed it to be back in the days before DSMlink and front mounts and all the other cool shit we have to run big boost on pump now. Don't be afraid to experiment.

but if u do the wastegate exit do you have to get a ne flapper or do you just do the section after the flapper?

where do you get your air from?

An air compressor

yes but a really big air compressor like for shop air or one thats not nearly as big cuz i have one of those

yea a big one thats where i get mine from I think its a dewalt

yea i dont have one of those so i have to find some other way to do it. i might just have to suck it up and pay someone to do it because i want the wastegate exit done as well .i have a shop in my area that does really good work but i dont know how expensive it is

I don't think you'd need a commercial size one, a little personal one should work I would think, but don't take my word for it, I've never used one. Worst case scenario, it would take longer because you would have to stop and wait for the airtank to fill back up.

My compressor is just a 5 or 6 hp 30 gallon unit, pretty standard. From SEARs IIRC, couple hundred bucks. It runs constantly, but it moves enough air to run a die grinder.

where do you get your air from?

You blow really, really friggin hard :p.

Kevin, I miss your infinite wisdom.

So do I...

lol that was pretty funny

lol ya ur basically a genius and you will probably help me with innumerable problems in the future. Well mines tiny defenitely not even 5-6hp maybe 1-1.5 but i want to really solve the problem and do the wastegate exit and never have to deal with creep again. anybody in the denver area with a die grinder and compressor? lol

I haven't been on for a while and I don't know if it would allow more directed responses from everyone else but the turbo he's got was ported by SBR and has the 34mm flapper. The 02 housing on there is stock. I started doing a little porting on it (maybe like 10 minutes or so) but didn't get very far before giving up because I was running out of time. Not sure if it's been changed or anything since I had my way with it.

With all the turbos I've purchases from SBR, I never had their porting done. I wish I had, so I would know what they do. I'd use the gasket as a template to try to determine if they have done any work on the previously mentioned WG exit area, and if so, matching the O2 housing to that may be all that is needed. I'm assuming the hole has already been ported, otherwise the 24mm flapper would be worthless.

I would also advise against 34mm flapper upgrades if you plan to max a 16 out. It will blow open before maximum airflow is achieved if the hole is ported out to match the valve. I went back to stock sized flappers on these turbos once my testing proved this problem, since I usually max out every turbo I run (T67 excluded :D)

isnt it only 21 psi for the 16g to max out at like 33lbs or something like that cuz i really wanted to see what the 16g could do with methanol/water injection