Graduated backgrounds

This isn't so much a modeling question as it is a photography question. I've noticed some rather good photos of models where the background fades from white to black. I know this can be done with a white seemless sheet; it's the amount of light and distance that affects the shade and color.

Does anyone have a photo of their setup and an example picture showing the result of that setup? I've checked some of the photo threads but haven't found a good picture of the setup.

I'd like to post some completed projects, as well as WIPs, but until the photography is right, I don't see much point. I personally hate looking at threads where the cuttin mat is in focus and the subject isn't, or worse still, nothing is actually in focus. I especially love when the camera is blamed! :grinno:

Here is an example of what I was able to do. Background gradient isn't very good, however. Never mind the dust on the sensor.:frown:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa73/wallacesells/IMG_2563Medium.jpg

And here is the not so good photo of the setup:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa73/wallacesells/IMG_2589Medium.jpg

Thanks!

Looks pretty good to me!! :lol:

Thats a quick and easy set up....the results are great!

Thanks for the kind words. I'm going to try a 3 light setup and see if a key light with barn doors and a honeycomb diffuser will help darken the background.

I guess I could always bust out the airbrush and paint a graduated background. That's cheating though...:icon16: Now I just have to get decent subject matter. Couple nude models, maybe...

what camera are you using?

what camera are you using?

I'm using a Canon EOS 10D with a Sigma 105mm Macro f/2.8 lens, high speed CF card and a remote wireless flash trigger.

Don't get too worried about the type of camera, though. I saw a "documentary" about the SI Swim suit edition where one of the photographers had very bad vision and shot with a point and shoot disposable film camera. You would never have know looking at the pictures it was a disposable camera!

This setup can be replicated with tungsten desk lamps, flood lights, etc. and a decent 3MP point and shoot camera. Even without a macro mode. Lighting is the most important, followed closely by a tripod. Knowing how closely your camera focuses is another important point. I've seen many photographs here where if the photog simply moved back 1 foot, the shot would be in focus.

Don't get me wrong; it doesn't hurt having a DSLR. :p Most of the time, the problem is behind the camera, not in front of it! :grinyes: Take, for example, the modelers who make crappy AMT models look like works of art, and others who make the beautiful Tamiya Enzo look like a piece of crap!

I'm using a Canon EOS 10D with a Sigma 105mm Macro f/2.8 lens, high speed CF card and a remote wireless flash trigger.



hmmm.... should I get a wireless remote for my Nikon D40? :iceslolan

hmmm.... should I get a wireless remote for my Nikon D40? :iceslolan

Mine came with the kit I bought. I had the sync cord plugged into the flash directly, but I think the cheap flash was sending a nasty voltage back to my camera. I didn't want to fry the electronics on the camera!

I've seen wireless triggers on eBay similar to mine for $15 - $30 shipped. Plus you won't have sync wires in your pictures! :iceslolan

Apparently this isn't an interesting subject...

It seems that shooting from a lower angle and adding a front light helps darken the background a bit. A few tweaks in photoshop didn't hurt things either!

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa73/wallacesells/Tamiya%20DTM%20Team%20D2%202000/IMG_2649Medium.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa73/wallacesells/Tamiya%20DTM%20Team%20D2%202000/IMG_2653Medium.jpg

These are taken from my Team D2 WIP (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=719099).

Well you can blame it if it's a cellphone camera:p Sorry if you've seen the few pictures I've posted. Now you know why I have over 200 comments posted and no finished project pictures. I have to look into that Canon, when I can save enough money to get one.

Well you can blame it if it's a cellphone camera:p Sorry if you've seen the few pictures I've posted.
You got me on that one. That is a technological limitation although the new phones are a hell of a lot better.

I have to look into that Canon, when I can save enough money to get one.
Again, don't worry about the camera as much as the tecnical aspect, i.e. lighting, focus, distance to subject, etc. For fun, I'm going to do a setup with some desk lamps and our little point-and-shoot digital that we bought for under $150. I think you'll be surprised with the results! A coworker just purchased a 7.2MP Samsung (http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Samsung/samsung_nv7.asp) for under $200. It has big glass and the quality is amazing! I've also tried Canon's Powershot Pro1 and had great results and heard great things about the PowerShot G7 (http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Canon/canon_g7.asp).

Hi!

I have seen a couple of "tutorials" on the internet and the one found on manfrotto's website (http://www.manfrotto.com/Jahia/site/manfrotto/cache/offonce/pid/3708) is pretty cool.
I know that it adds up to a respectable amount of money with all that gear (lights, light boxes, difusors, stands, etc) but I think one can achieve a similar result with homemade equipment.

what do you think?

Thanks for the link. I remember seeing that a while back. Good tutorial. This photo shoot of a Shelby cobra (http://www.webphotoschool.com/all_lessons/auction_small_business/Photographing_Small_Products_in_Detail/index.html), incidentally, at Web photo school used to be free. It was pretty detailed and showed step by step results.

I personally don't think the equipment is as important as the photog's creativity and attention to detail. Some white and black cardstock and 2 or 3 flood lights can produce similar results. Controlling the light is the key. In fact, constant lighting is easier to work with because you see the results immediately. My flashes have modeling lights, but they're pretty dim.

I picked up my equipment on eBay for $300 shipped. It's cheaper made in China stuff, but it works for me. I worked with a pro shooting box art for zip lock storage containers. The camera was about $10k and he had about $40k worth of flashes. I still think he could produce better photos with 3 flood lamps and a P/S camera then I could with his equipment.

It would be great if we could improve everyone's protography a little bit. Most of my models look kind of crappy in real life, but turn out OK with good lighting! :grinyes: Kind of reminds me of some of the head shots I've done!!! :evillol:

I personally don't think the equipment is as important as the photog's creativity and attention to detail. Some white and black cardstock and 2 or 3 flood lights can produce similar results. Controlling the light is the key. In fact, constant lighting is easier to work with because you see the results immediately.(...)

I think you are quite right. I personally don't have any specific setup yet simply because I've been inactive modelling-wise for quite a while now. Moving from one city to another (200 miles apart) twice! in less than a year and in between meet the woman of your life can make your head spin really fast.

I own a Nikon D50 with AF Nikkor 28-80mm and I recently ordered a Manfrotto 055PROB tripod with a 405 head to go with it (I think it's sold in the US under the name Bogen) but, as you say, with a relatively decent P/S camera, sturdy tripod and a clean background you can make really interesting photos! Just do a little research and with simple things like cardboard and a straight tabletop...and you're set!

Cheers!

and in between meet the woman of your life can make your head spin really fast.

You might say that...:iceslolan

I have that same tripod/head, and it is a Bogen here in the US. The D50 is more than capable! Good luck

Wow, thanks for the tutorial, or the explanation. I 'm sure to give it a go.

oli