2004 o2 sensor locations

Garage just did my 60,000 mi service on my '04 Taurus SE and said the check engine code is for o2 sensor , bank 1, sensor 1, needs to be replaced. They want $250 to change it and I am thinking I can do this myself.
Anyone here know where to locate this sensor on the car? Also do I need special tools or is there anything I should know prior to changing it. Any help is appreciated!

Bank 1 on yoru Taurus will be the bank nearest the firewall. Sensor 1 will be the sensor in the exhaust manifold before the catalyst. Many times a special oxygen sensor socket will make the task easier, especially when installing the new sensor as it has a slot to allow the wire to fit through.

On a 2004 with 60k miles and a code for an O2 sensor, one thing to know is that there is probably some other issue causing the sensor to fail so soon, if your problem really is the sensor. If you just replace the sensor, there is a chance that you may be doing it again in a few miles if you don't fix what caused the sensor to fail.

-Rod

$250.00 ? ? ? Can you say RIP-OFF?:yikes: WHEW!
Mine's an 03 Vulcan 50K mi and I changed the bank 1 one sensor 1 in FIFTEEN minutes. Rod is on target here; "Sensor 1 will be the sensor in the exhaust manifold before the catalyst".
Look on the left behind the engine and the sensor sticks up out of the exhaust manifold like a sore thumb, sort'a looks like a bug spark plug with a wire coming out the top. I bought a Bosch sensor at Advance Auto for like $40. and gave them a $15. deposit to use the special wrench made just for changing sensors. (You get the deposit back when you take the tool back.) Let the engine cool and the rest is self-explainatory total piece of cake to change that puppy.

Do it yourself, save your hard earned money and take the wife out for Pizza and a few Brewskis. :naughty:

Rod is correct and other things could cause the light. but I figured I'd change it and if the light didn't come back on I had it whipped. :bananasmi

I have changed mine before as well. Pretty easy job with the right tool. It was fairly tough to get off but was easy after that. My problem ended up being a clogged catalytic converter. Got an aftermarket one for about $250.00 which was good compared to the $600.00 for a "Ford" certified one. Good luck.

Hey, thanks , I am going to do it today. My mechanic did say if we don't change it soon it will ruin the Cat. converter, so I am hoping I am not too late. The engine does stumble a little at idle when cold so I hope that is a related problem and will smooth out.
Rick

Pay attention to what the sensors look like when you remove them. If they are coated with black chalky exhaust, you probably have some other issue that is causing the codes and O2 sensors to fail. Again, I would not expect the O2 sensors to fail normally on a 2004 after 60k miles. Especially since most of those mile sare likely highway miles (that's more than the 12k average miles per year).

-Rod

The engine does stumble a little at idle when cold so I hope that is a related problem and will smooth out.

If it doesn't then clean the MAFS sensor. Search this forum for many threads talking about how to do this :) Our '04 used to stumble, and now that we cleaned it the car purrs like a kitten :p Better gas milage too :)

I have now replaced the sensor and still have the check engine light on. Do I need to reset the light ? If so how can I do that?
Thanks for the tip on the MAF sensor. I am going to try that too.
Rick

On my lunch break in a hurry.

Take the NEGATIVE battery terminal loose for 15 minutes then hook it up and rock on. Will give more info this evening but that's the basic how to reset check engine light. Definitely get the MAFS cleaned and the new PCV valve AND GROMMET.

Do I need to reset the light ? If so how can I do that?
Our '04 manual states that you don't need to do anything. It will reset itself after you buy a few tanks of gas. Also, if you have the Duratec engine you won't have (need) a PVC. If it's a SE then I don't think the Duratec was an option so you should have one.

Burning a few tanks of gas might take awhile. Take the NEGATIVE battery terminal loose for 15 minutes then hook it up and that way you get instant gratification. Like, BAM! The light goes out and it resets the computer to a brand new fresh start just like it came from the factory. :ylsuper:
If it has a PCV valve get a new one and a new grommet. I say IF because it might not have one. Clean the MAFS to. That's what I did to my Vulcan six months ago and cured the light and runs great.

Past my beddie bye time so g'nite, sleep tite and don't let the bed bugs bite. Zzzzz. . . .

Just for the record removing the negative battery cable did not work on our '04 (it worked when we did tranny work and needed to reset the computer, but not for the MAFS, and yes it sat overnight). Everytime we clean the MAFS without fail the light comes on, and the only way that it goes off, and stays off, is by fiddling with the gas cap (simulating putting gas in). I think it senses pressure over a certain period of time. It usually takes us 2-3 days for the light to go off, not months :)

"Just for the record removing the negative battery cable did not work on our '04." You weren't holding your mouth right. :slap:

Mine was idling erratic then I cleaned the MAFS 5K miles after I replaced the O2 sensor and the light never came on. Dumped a few cans of WallyWorld's finest injector cleaner in the tank and that puppy runs like a striped Ape. Gas went down to $2.75 here so I romp on it pretty regular now.

Varoom Varoom! I love sitting at the stop light and some jive squirrel next to me and I hold the brake and mash the gas and light changes and Bull Taurus is gone bye bye. :wave: Really tightens their jaws, especially when there's a cute little honey riding shot gun, so next light I hold the brake again and when it changes I just idle away and it makes them double ticked off. :cya:

Dumped a few cans of WallyWorld's finest injector cleaner in the tank and that puppy runs like a striped Ape.
Seafoam works great too :)

Seafoam works great too :)

Come to think of it, I got some at Advance and dumped it in to. An old retired Dude had ours with 38K mi on it and it needed a good cleaning out. Nary a scratch on it and he was fanatical about maintenance and had everything done but get on the hwy and blow it out good. They were from up North so made a few trips on I-95 moving to SC so it saw some road miles to.

Got'ta go put my Hickory hunks in water to soak so they won't brun up to fast when I start barbqueing them-thar good ole baby back ribs.
Happy 4th of July and GOD BLESS AMERICA!

http://www.ushistory.org/declaration/document/index.htm
Read and remember the brave men that have served that we may live FREE.

"When in the Course of human events it becomes necessary for one people to dissolve the political bands which have connected them with another and to assume among the powers of the earth, the separate and equal station to which the Laws of Nature and of Nature's God entitle them, a decent respect to the opinions of mankind requires that they should declare the causes which impel them to the separation."

Before anybody replied I did the battery disconnect and the light went out and has stayed off. The car is already running better and I havent cleaned the MAFS yet. The whole job with the tool cost me $65.00 and a half an hour of time!
I'm off to the auto parts to see if I can find that CRC cleaner spray. Thanks for the help and Happy 4th of July!

No way I can tell you how gratifying it is for us to know we helped a new friend fix it the right way and save their hard earned money in the process. Always appreciate folks punching back in and let us know how our suggestions worked for them.

CRC should be easy to find if you check a few places, I think it's about $7.50 but you get enough to clean the MAFS forty times anyway. Only thing you need to be parinoid about is, do not touch the wires with anything but the spray cleaner. Let it dry then clean it again. Basically follow the directions on the label and you should be good to go.

OK pal. You seem like a nice guy and we'd like you to hange here with us and help others because sometimes we get overwhelmed with folks needing help. Shorod and our other pro techs help the more complicated problems but us old shade tree mechanics fix flats, do oil changes, tranny flushes and lube jobs. Like that guy on TV, "Dirty Jobs." :grinyes: Next time someone has a problem like your you can jump right in and hook 'em up. :wink:

Hi i just recently bought a 2004 ford taurus se with the 3.0 v6 vulcan motor.... The person i bought it off of said they took out an o2 sensor and hadnt put it back in .... Well to make a long story short ... My car idles really rough and sometimes stalls out ..... The transmission also shifts really hard when put into over drive.... Does anyone have any clue as to how many o2 sensors my car has and where they are? And what i can do to fix the shifting and little bit of slipping it does i was told to put lucas oil transmission fix and it would help with my tranny problems......

Some have 3 sensors and some have 4. The shifting issue probably doesn't haver anything to doesn't O2 sensors.

thanks .... i just dont really kno seein this is my first ford i have owned..... i recently owned a cadillac so im switchin cars an this one seems to be less costly on parts an GAS lol.....

plus my car idles rough an stalls sometimes

plus my car idles rough an stalls sometimes

Air filter clean? First thing I would check is to clean the MAF sensor. It's very easy to clean, costs only a few bucks, and even if that's not your problem you'll still get better milage by cleaning the sensor.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_mass-air-flow-sensor-cleaner-crc_7070079-p

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPT8rL0noYg

Might not be a bad idea to replace the gas filter too (passenger side by rear tire) but first go to walmart and put a can of sea foam in the gas tank. It works wonders.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sea-Foam-Motor-Treatment-16-oz/16664932

thanks i will try that.... where is the maf sensor located at?

Drivers side of engine compartment. You'll see a big 4" air hose coming from the air filter. It's screwed in that. You'll need a small torx socket set to remove the screws. Then simply pull it straight out. Do NOT touch the anything except for where the wires plug in. Here is side and top views;

Thank you........ Do u have any pictures of where the o2 sensors lay?

Stand in front of your car and open the hood. Look straight down between the radiator and the engine. That's one. Another one is right before the catalytic converter. I couldn't find the others so I'm guessing they are by the firewall side of the engine.

ok thank you ever so much....... this truely is my first ford and i love it to pieces

The 2004's are very good cars but a lot depends on how the previous owner(s) treated it. All things being equal it's a great car.

Yea considering the price of the car...... You cant beat the cheap prices of parts either

Your 2004 Vulcan Taurus will have a total of 4 sensors. There will be one in each of the exhaust manifolds and another one after each of the catalytic converters.

As for the harsh shifting, I wouldn't get too excited about that until after you fix the misfire or vacuum leak that is causing the rough idle.

-Rod

Thanks for the info.......... If its something that will be an expensive fix i wouldnt be out too much money as i only paid 850 for it to begin with......

I did hear a hissing sound under the car an auto place told me it most likely has a vacuum leak some where

There's a pretty good chance that the vacuum leak is the reason for possibly all of the issues you are experiencing, especially if you do not have active codes pointing to issues for the oxygen sensors.

You stated earlier that the previous owner didn't put the oxygen sensor back in. Is the exhaust really loud? If not, I suspect the sensor is installed. They probably removed the oxygen sensor thinking a plugged catalytic converter was the reason for the lack of power and rough idle.

-Rod

I did hear a hissing sound under the car an auto place told me it most likely has a vacuum leak some where

Yes a vacuum leak would cause the car to miss and run poorly. Unfortunately they can be a bit tricky to pin down and most mechanics, while claiming that they can locate and fix them, simply don't have the proper tools to do the job right. I would just take the car to a good Ford dealer and let them locate and fix it. You may pay a little more BUT the job will get fixed right the FIRST time, and your car will run great afterwards. The money you save by getting better gas milage will probably make up the difference in cost between a good mechanic and a poor one.

Now, having said all of that the "hissing" sound could be almost anything. If it's coming from under the car I would make sure that the O2 sensors are installed correctly and that they didn't do any damage while trying to get the old ones off. You could just have an exhaust leak. Some people confuse those with a "hissing" sound. Your time and patience in tracking this noise down will pay off greatly. When these cars run as they should they run GREAT. At the time, it was one of Fords best cars.

i cleaned THE idle control valve sensor on my car an it doesnt idle ruff any more or stall out ....... it has some nasty black gunk in it ...... man i didnt think a part could be so nasty on the inside .... the part looked to be just installed on my car as it looked brand new but it was nasty lol