Bleeding Your Cooling System
xeroinfinity
06-20-2007, 04:05 PM
On V6 models(with recirculator tube):
*It does help to have the front end of the car elevated slightly.
- Start the engine and allow it to warm up to running temp. with the Radiator cap off.
- Then turn the heater on full heat(fan@low speed),
to allow the heatercore to clear the air that gets trapped in thier.
- On the pass side above the water pump you'll see a black tube,
which has a piece that sticks up and is brass on the top.
- Turn/Open the small bolt in the center and it'll purge the air through a hole in the bolt.
- Bleed until it runs clear of air.
- Might take a 15-20 minutes to completely purge.
- Also make sure the resv. tank does not go dry while doing this.
Heres a pic of that....
Underhood Locations (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/auto%20odds-ends/99gtundr2.jpg)
(solid purplish arrow)
--You can also use a small clear rubber tubing, connected to the larger brass fitting.
--Run the other end of the hose into the Resv. tank.
--Run untill the coolant runs clear with no bubbles in the tubing.
Also the brass fitting is a dealer part only.
On 4 cyl models you basicly have to run the engine and keep adding coolant to the reservoir .
- Start engine allow to warm up to running temp. with the reservoir cap off.
- With the heater on, and at a low fan speed.
- Might have to run the engine for quiet a long time( 30-40 minutes or longer) to get the air out.
- Fan(s) should cycle at least once during this time.
- Try not to let the reservoir go dry or more air will get pulled into the system.
Also as seen in this thread on a 2.2 eco. which is the same way.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=712078&highlight=bleeding+cooling+system
Hope that helps and Good Luck!
*It does help to have the front end of the car elevated slightly.
- Start the engine and allow it to warm up to running temp. with the Radiator cap off.
- Then turn the heater on full heat(fan@low speed),
to allow the heatercore to clear the air that gets trapped in thier.
- On the pass side above the water pump you'll see a black tube,
which has a piece that sticks up and is brass on the top.
- Turn/Open the small bolt in the center and it'll purge the air through a hole in the bolt.
- Bleed until it runs clear of air.
- Might take a 15-20 minutes to completely purge.
- Also make sure the resv. tank does not go dry while doing this.
Heres a pic of that....
Underhood Locations (http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/auto%20odds-ends/99gtundr2.jpg)
(solid purplish arrow)
--You can also use a small clear rubber tubing, connected to the larger brass fitting.
--Run the other end of the hose into the Resv. tank.
--Run untill the coolant runs clear with no bubbles in the tubing.
Also the brass fitting is a dealer part only.
On 4 cyl models you basicly have to run the engine and keep adding coolant to the reservoir .
- Start engine allow to warm up to running temp. with the reservoir cap off.
- With the heater on, and at a low fan speed.
- Might have to run the engine for quiet a long time( 30-40 minutes or longer) to get the air out.
- Fan(s) should cycle at least once during this time.
- Try not to let the reservoir go dry or more air will get pulled into the system.
Also as seen in this thread on a 2.2 eco. which is the same way.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=712078&highlight=bleeding+cooling+system
Hope that helps and Good Luck!
xeroinfinity
07-11-2008, 05:41 PM
Thought I'd add some more helpfull info on this.
You can take your bleeder valve part out and goto your local hardware and find a small brass fitting like this.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/Exhaust%20Project/DSC_94.jpg
Attach a small hose(I used fish tank air lines) to the end off the bleeder then stick the other end into the resevoir.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/Exhaust%20Project/DSC_97.jpg
Start the engine and allow it to warm up. Should see bubbles coming thru the tubing, like this.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/Exhaust%20Project/DSC_98.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/Exhaust%20Project/DSC_100.jpg
If no more bubbles are moving shut the engine off and allow it to cool down a little. Bubbles will start to move even after you shut it down.
You may need to repeat this a couple 3-4 times, but this works best.
If you just open the bleeder for a long period of time, and no bubbles are coming out, it can actualy suck more air back into the system. With this bleeder hose attached it can only suck coolant back into the system. :thumbsup:
You can take your bleeder valve part out and goto your local hardware and find a small brass fitting like this.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/Exhaust%20Project/DSC_94.jpg
Attach a small hose(I used fish tank air lines) to the end off the bleeder then stick the other end into the resevoir.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/Exhaust%20Project/DSC_97.jpg
Start the engine and allow it to warm up. Should see bubbles coming thru the tubing, like this.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/Exhaust%20Project/DSC_98.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/Exhaust%20Project/DSC_100.jpg
If no more bubbles are moving shut the engine off and allow it to cool down a little. Bubbles will start to move even after you shut it down.
You may need to repeat this a couple 3-4 times, but this works best.
If you just open the bleeder for a long period of time, and no bubbles are coming out, it can actualy suck more air back into the system. With this bleeder hose attached it can only suck coolant back into the system. :thumbsup:
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026